Kyoto’s beautiful temples….Kinkaku-ji and Fushimi-Inari

Located in the beautiful city of Kyoto in Japan is this majestic temple called Kinkaku-ji (Temple of the Golden Pavilion in Japanese) also known as the Rukuonji temple. The top two floors of the temple are coated in 0.5 um gold leaf. The gold incorporated into the building is believed to negate any negative thoughts and feelings towards death. The aesthetic construction with the golden building reflecting on the pond below is amazing indeed! It is a World Heritage Site since 1994.

History

The origin of Kinkaku-ji dates back to the 14th century . In 1397, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu took over the retirement villa that stood here. He built the Kitayama palace centering the golden stupa. This was the centre of politics and culture and was used to welcome the Emperors of Japan and trading partners from China. After Yoshimitsu passed away, it was converted into a temple as per his will.

The temple has a rather sad history when a young mentally unstable monk set it on fire before attempting suicide in 1950. The monk survived but passed away in 1955 of tuberculosis. A book “The Temple of the Golden Pavilion “by Yukio Mishima refers to these events.

The statue of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu was destroyed in the fire and later restored. The present pavilion was built in 1955 and is three storeys high. In 1984, it was noticed that the gold leaf was peeling off and then it was restored with thicker gold leaf.

A silver pavilion temple has also been built on its model in Kyoto called Ginkaku-ji by Yoshimitsu’s grandson on the other side of Kyoto city.

Architecture

The three floors are built in distinctly different styles and serves as a shariden housing Buddha’s ashes. It reflects the wealthy aristocratic style prevalent in Kyoto during Yoshimitsu’s time.

The entrance

The landscaped garden with walking path

The building itself is located in a garden landscaped in muromachi style, a classical japanese strolling garden style. Located in a pond, the structure provides a stunning reflection of itself in the water. The pond has 10 smaller islands.

The temple and the pond

The temple adds to the beauty of the surroundings…

As we look closely we see details of the amazing architecture….

The first floor called Chamber of Dharma is designed as an open space with verandahs and uses natural unpainted wood and plaster. Statues of Shaka Buddha and Yoshimitsu are present here . Though you cannot enter the temple, these can be seen through the sliding doors which are often open.

The second floor is the Tower of Sound Waves built in style of warrior aristocrats and has a hall and Buddha shrine .The statues here are not shown to visitors.

The third floor is built in Chinese style and called Cupola of the Ultimate.

The roof is a thatched pyramid with a bronze phoenix on top.

Close up showing the three floors and phoenix clearly

The Fudo Hall with the image of the wise man and protector of Buddhism lies along the path. A thick rope which helps in sounding a gong ( to awaken the Gods to your prayer) is another unique feature.

Fudo Hall with the gong and rope

The garden with bonsai trees adds beauty and in fall, the colours add another level of ethereal beauty to the temple.

The beautiful garden

As we walk along the path, there is a spring and a waterfall…

The spring and the waterfall

The garden has few other points of interest including a pond that never dries up and statues where people throw coins to fulfill their wishes.

Drop coins for good luck

A Sekkatei teahouse …a traditional Japanese tea house can be seen just before one exits the temple.

The Sekkatei Tea House

Leaving Kinkaku-ji, we headed to another of Kyoto’s iconic temples…The temple of tori gates…Fushimi Inari.

Fushimi Inari

Famous for its tori gates, this temple too is very attractive and sacred to the locals.

The shrine rests on the mountain called Inariyama and aims at promoting the harmonious coexistence of deities, humans and nature. Inari Okami, is the presiding deity of the temple founded in 711 AD. People gather here to pray for bountiful harvest, business prosperity , safety of home and family and fulfillment of wishes.

Tori gates are traditional Japanese gates to Shinto shrines. They are composed of two vertical posts topped by two cross beams and painted red. The Japanese believe that passing through a Tori gate is a transition into a holy space.

Fushimi Inari has almost ten thousands tori gates which straddle the walking path that leads to the wooded forest of sacred mount Inari. Inari is the short form of “Ine Nari” meaning reaping of rice in Japanese. There are more than thirty thousand Inari shrines from all over Japan that are affiliated to Fushimi reflecting the importance of this temple to the locals. Foxes are believed to be messengers of Inari and many statues of foxes are seen across the shrine.

Our visit

As you enter the complex, the main Tori gate is called the Romon Gate.

Our group below the Romon gate (a tori gate) with the Fushimi Inari shrine behind

The main shrine with the sacred fox images on either side
The side view of the main shrine with the steps leading to the Tori gates

As one walks up the stairs one comes across a board explaining the location of various shrines at the temple.

Our guide shows us the tori gates on a board and explains the location

A wishing horse is another speciality here. Though the temple was primarily meant for praying for good harvest, people believe that praying to the horse for progress in business ventures is helpful. Many people put their visiting cards inside.

The wishing horse….note the cards inside the shrine

Just behind the main shrine is the entrance to the tori gate covered hiking trail which has parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii creating an impression of a tunnel. There are believed to be ten thousand such gates that lead to the top. These gates are donations by individuals whose names are inscribed on the back of each gate.

The gates with names of donors and giving a feel of walking through a tunnel

Click on video to walk through the Tori tunnel

After the first set of parallel gates are over, you reach an open area with multiple shrines.

Shinto shrine with a display of fox amulets

The decorated fox statues seen all around this temple

Lot of locals were trying their hand at lifting a heavy stone known as the Omokaru stone. Making a wish and lifting it is believed to grant the wish if the stone feels lighter after you make the wish.

Lifting the Omokaru stone

The gates continue from behind this upwards to the mountain and lead to several smaller shrines covering a distance of four kilometers and takes around two hours to walk.

We had limited time and so walked back to our bus after visiting the temple. Like most temples in Japan, the paths leading to the temples are lined with plenty of shops selling food items and souvenirs.

Tempting display of food items along the walking path to the temple

Enjoying some of the treats on offer, we walked to our bus after a great day of sightseeing at Kyoto.

Hope you enjoyed these unique Japanese temples.

See you next week with more from Kyoto, the beautiful Japanese city

Till then, do subscribe, like and comment…

Exploring Mt. Fuji: A Guide to Japan’s Iconic Volcano

Mt. Fuji ( Fujisan ) , Japan’s iconic, sacred active volcano is the nation’s tallest peak at 3776 mts. Mt Fuji lies around 100 kms from Tokyo, close to Yamanashi where we stayed overnight for our tour up this mountain. From Tokyo, the peak is visible on clear days . The day we visited the Tokyo Skytree was not exactly a clear day. However, we did get a glimpse of this iconic peak for a short time when the clouds decided to grace us!!!

Our first views of Mt Fuji from Tokyo Skytree when the clouds decided to bless us!!

Though the exceptionally symmetrical cone covered with snow is what makes it so attractive, there is a huge crater on the top . The snow here lasts for about five months in a year.

Japan has a long history of mountain worship and Mt. Fuji remains revered and respected as a site of spiritual importance for the locals. It is one of Japan’s “Three Holy Mountains”. Today women can climb Mt. Fuji ; but there was a time when they were forbidden to do so for religious reasons. Besides this, it is a cultural icon in Japan, frequently depicted in their art, literature and the subject of many poems.

Visiting Mt Fuji is a spiritual journey for the Japanese

Mt. Fuji and its surroundings are a popular recreational destination for hiking, camping and relaxation. The mountain is divided into ten stations from bottom upwards and the fifth station can be reached by vehicle. From the fifth station, one has to hike up to the peak using one of the four trail routes. The most popular months to climb Mt. Fuji is July to October when the weather is warmer and buses to the trail heads are available. Huts above the fifth station are also open during this period providing food and other supplies for the climbers.

The mountain is surrounded by five lakes and the entire area is known as the five lakes area from where one gets great views of the mountain . Staying in the five lakes area overnight is a good option to enjoy the ambience and prepare for the climb up. Hotels here offer good hiking, fishing and camping opportunities .

Hot springs with Onsen facilities are another attraction here. The spring water loaded with mineral salts gives a refreshed feeling. Lake Kawaguchi at Yamanashi is one of the five lakes that surround this mountain.

Our Trip

We drove from Tokyo to Yamanashi and stayed overnight near Lake Kawaguchi. Next morning we went up to the fifth station. Since describing the beauty in words can never match the views; I shall let my pictures talk to you from now on…

Driving from Tokyo to Yamanashi, the first views of this majestic peak were exhilarating …

The first views of Mt Fuji from our bus as we were heading to Yamanashi

Our Hotel at Yamanashi overlooking Lake Kawaguchi

Fall colours at Lake Kawaguchi

Mt Fuji from across Kawaguchi lake

Mt Fuji at night ….view from our room

Mt. Fuji as the first rays of the sun kiss the revered mountain top…..

And after the sun washes it with its rays….

The views as we climbed up to the fifth station

Our group at Mt Fuji fifth station

View of Mt Fuji from fifth station

The shopping and recreational area at fifth station

Another view from fifth station….to the right of Mt Fuji

Overwhelmed with the beauty of the place, our guide literally had to pull us all away to get on to our bus heading to our next destination

Hope you have enjoyed this virtual visit to Mt. Fuji. But no virtual visit can match a real life experience and this is one that you should not miss. So head on….

Meanwhile do remember to subscribe, like and comment below.

Till we meet at our next destination, its sayonara from me…

A Day in Tokyo: Gardens, Shrines, and the Skytree

Our second day at Tokyo saw us visiting the Rikugien garden also called the Zen Garden.

Rikugien Garden

One of Tokyo’s most beautiful strolling gardens, it is a tranquil garden with a central pond, walking paths and iconic bridges representing scenes from Japanese poems. It is an ancient garden created in 1700 and offers visitors a feast of colours in all seasons. During spring, the cherry blossoms are all in bloom giving the entire garden a pinkish hue. In autumn, there is a myriad of colours leaving you mesmerised.

Night views with illumination are also organised during special occasions.

Some pictures…

The autumn colours were just starting at…Rikugien

The central pond with the reflection of the trees

The bright colours of autumn

More colours….

The grooming of a tree

An antique bridge adds to the beauty

After those amazing autumn colours at the garden, we proceeded to the Meiji-jingu shrine

The Meiji Jingu shrine

This shrine is peculiar in that it is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken ; the first Emperor and Empress of modern Japan. However, the Emperor’s grave is not located here but in Kyoto. It was built between 1920 and 1926 and lies in a man made tranquil forested area with gardens and long walking tracks in the midst of the Tokyo hustle.

Shinto is the original Japanese religion with no founder, no holy book but values harmony with nature and a true sincere heart. They believe anything divine is Kami (spirit).

The tranquil surroundings of the forest were really appealing in spite of the crowds.

In less crowded times; it would be a very meditative experience…..my thoughts as I walked along…


A traditional bridge in tranquil surroundings

Chrysanthemum is the national flower of the Japan and the symbol of the Imperial family . A beautiful display of Chrysanthemum flowers and bonsai trees greeted us to the shrine.


The Chrysanthemum and bonsai display

One of the unique features of this shrine are the barrels of wine and Sake displayed decoratively.

Along the pathway on one side are displayed wine barrels. Emperor Meiji loved French wine and encouraged the adoption of western cultures in the Meiji period when Japan started getting modern. Barrels of French wine were donated and is still offered at the temple.



Wine barrels with the donor’s name

On the opposite side , parallel to this are displayed decorated Sake barrels.ake plays a very important role in Shinto . Emperor Meiji encouraged technological advancements in all areas including sake production. The barrels displayed here are empty and are offered along with sake in bottles as a token of gratitude by brewers.

The juxtaposition of traditional Sake with modern Wine is symbolic of the adoption of modern while retaining the traditional; an approach adopted by Japan in the Meiji period


Sake barrels

Walking along the gardens one reaches the Tori gate that mark the entrance to the sacred area of the temple. The Tori gate has Chrysanthemum crests which signify the connection of the royal family with Meiji-Jingu.


Tori gate with chrysanthemum crest

An open courtyard lies ahead of the gate

A group picture in at courtyard leading to the main shrine

A Temizusha or purification area where one can wash one’s hands and mouth to purify oneself before visiting the shrine greets us here.


The Temizusha

Next is the Minami Shinmon or the main gate which is a grand, traditional wooden gate of impressive size, featuring ornate details, a teal roof, and marking the main entrance to the inner shrine area.


Minami Shinmon

Two large camphor trees…the husband and wife trees stand in the foreground of the main shrine. linked by a rope symbolising happy marriage.

The husband and wife camphor trees bound by a rope

Ema or wooden plaques where one can write one’s wishes or feelings of gratitude are available and many locals tie it around the tree.

Ema or wish amulets

That led us to the ornate main shrine. The intricate designs and architecture of this structure is strikingly similar to many Hindu temples of Kerala.

The main sanctuary with beautiful architecture

After this cultural treat, we headed to a Japanese restaurant for lunch. More on that later….

Post lunch we headed to the Skytree, the towering icon of Tokyo

Tokyo Skytree

This is a broadcasting and observation tower located in Tokyo. At 634 mts., it is the tallest tower in the world. The older Tokyo tower no longer gives digital broadcasting coverage as it is surrounded by high rise buildings.

The base of the tower is shaped like a tripod but from a height of 350 mts, the structure is cylindrical and gives panoramic views of the city and the Sumida river. There are two observatories at 350 mts and 450 mts height. There is a glass skywalk that gives a direct view of the streets below.

A view of Mt Fuji from this tower is a coveted sight on clear days.

Some pictures…

The Sky tree

Entrance to the Skytree

Sky tree and the old Tokyo tower as seen from our hotel

Four ultra speed elevators takes us to the Tembo deck which is the observatory . These lift decorations feature the four seasons and operate at 600mt/minute speed. It reaches the deck in about 50 seconds.

The lift reaching the deck as shown on a video inside the elevator.(click on video)

The Tembo deck or observatory is circular and has large glass panes around providing views all round. A part of the deck has glass floor which gives views of the steel framework and the street below. At various points along the circumference are signboards guiding us to the important landmarks visible from that direction.

The Tembo Deck

Glass floor

Views of Tokyo city and the Sumida river from the deck

Sky tree provides views of Mt Fuji on clear days. Unfortunately it was hazy when we were at the sky tree. However we got a fleeting sight as the clouds decided to grace us!!

Blessed with a fleeting view of Mt Fuji as the clouds cleared.

A cafe and souvenir shop also function here.

Evenings see the Sky tree illuminated in various hues. …Iki, Miyabi and Nobori themes. The Iki theme is the water theme in tribute to the sumida river and has the central tower in faint blue.

The sky tree illuminated in Iki theme

From here we headed back to our hotel for dinner and rest . Next day we were to head for Yamanashi for Mt Fuji views.

It must be amply clear by now how Tokyo truly amalgamates the ancient and the modern.

See you next week from Mt. Fuji. Till then, do subscribe, like and comment.

Exploring Tokyo: Modern Marvels and Cultural Gems

Tokyo is Japan’s bustling capital that provides the visitor a taste of diverse experiences ranging from the ultra modern to the traditional. With its towering skyscrapers, neon lights and flyovers crisscrossing the Sumida river on one side and traditional temples like the Senso-ji and Meiji Jinku on the other ; it is truly an amalgam of modern and traditional Japan. It is exceptionally clean and so difficult to find a public dustbin ; that we wonder if it really is the world’s most populous metropolitan area ?

It is the main economic centre of the country and the seat of the government and the Emperor of Japan. Originally known as Edo, it has evolved from a small fishing village to what it is today. And one has to remember that all this has been achieved in spite of numerous earthquakes and the World wars that plundered it.

Landing at Narita airport, these were the signs that greeted us…

First glimpses of Japan

Driving from Narita airport to town, we did see the towering skyscrapers, flyovers and sparkling billboards of modern Tokyo.

A beautifully lit bridge on the Sumida river with skyscrapers in the background

The busy locals and the colourful billboards

The disciplined movement of traffic is something that is striking!!!! (click on video)

We checked into the beautiful Tokyo Dome Hotel and the views from there were wonderful.

The Hotel and a bird’s eye view of Tokyo city

This Hotel is part of an entertainment arena called Tokyo Dome. It has various fun activities and shopping areas in the complex.

The illuminated Tokyo Dome arena and entertainment area (click on video)

The brightly lit ferris wheel in the shopping area.

Next morning, looking down from our hotel room, the organised movement of people at the signal amused us as they resembled small black ants….click on the video below for some fun…

Bird’s eye view of the start to a day at Tokyo…(click on video)

Soon we were on our way looking around and we first visited the Imperial Palace and garden.

Imperial Palace and Garden

The primary residence of Japan’s Emperor, this palace is located on the grounds of the former Edo Castle. It features Japanese style gardens with historic castle ruins, moats, walls and the Nijubashi Bridge. The outer gardens are accessible to the public but the inner gardens are not.

Some pictures…

A bronze statue of Kusunoki Masashige a famous 14th century samurai adorns the pathway of the garden near the palace. He was very loyal to the Emperor and is seen here awaiting his return from exile. It is regarded as one of Tokyo’s important bronze statues.

The garden

The bronze samurai

The Japanese style garden with bonsai trees

The Nijubashi bridge across the moat is famous for its two arches like two eyes. Behind it is the original bridge and to the left is the main entrance to the palace

Nijubashi bridge with the palace watchtower behind


The palace gates

Our group at the outer gardens

The entrance to the inner gardens

Some of the buildings in the palace complex with stone walls and moats around

From here we proceeded to the Asakusa temple also called the Senso-ji temple.

Senso-ji Temple (Asakusa Temple)

Dedicated to Kannon, the Bodhisattva of compassion it is believed to be one of the most widely visited religious sites in the world.

The senso-ji legend

In 628 AD, two brothers discovered the statue of Kannon while fishing in the Sumida river. The statue was 5.5 cms in height and made of pure gold. This idol is housed in this temple which was completed in 650 AD making it Tokyo’s oldest temple.

Asakusa was at that time, a small fishing village in the Tokyo bay. Visitors flocking to worship Kannon increased the popularity of not only the temple but Asakusa too. Gradually the placed developed and by the 18th century, it became a very busy part of the city. Destroyed during an air raid in WW II, it was rebuilt in 1950.

The Temple

The entrance to the temple is dominated by a Thunder Gate with a massive lantern painted in red and black suggesting thunder clouds and lightning.

The Thunder gate

This gate leads to the Nakamise-dori the shopping street that has shops selling food items, souvenirs, Buddhist scrolls, kimonos, traditional fans and curios.This shopping street was established after the locals were given permission to run the businesses in exchange for keeping the street clean.

Nakamise -dori (The shopping street)

The shopping street ends at the inner gate or the Treasure house gate which is a two storey gate with Senso-ji’s treasures in the upper floor.

Treasure house gate

The temple grounds house the main hall, and a five storey pagoda. The main hall houses Kannon. A large beautiful shrine lies inside the main hall but the statue of Kannon is never shown to the public. The entrance to the main hall also has a huge red lantern.

Just outside the main hall is also an incense burner and purification fountain found in most Japanese temples.

The incense burner and purification fountain

The main hall of the temple (side view)

Entrance to the main hall with the huge red lantern

The main shrine

The beautiful five floor pagoda

Shinjuku

Another interesting destination at Tokyo was the Shinjuku shopping area full of billboards and malls. Some pictures from Shinjuku.

Some pictures from Shinjuku shopping area

That brings us to the end of this episode. Next week we uncover more of Tokyo.

I hope you enjoyed this tour to Tokyo. Await more from this great city…

Till then, do subscribe, like and comment.

Leh’s Hall of Fame: A Tribute to Our Heroes

This episode is particularly dear to me as it highlights the Army museum in Leh . Known as the Hall of Fame, it stands as a memorial to the soldiers who laid down their lives for our country. A walk through this museum and its environs makes one’s hair stand on edge.

Take a look…

Exhibits of tanks and heavy artillery adorn the area around the entrance to the museum.

One of the exhibits displayed near the entrance to the museum

Hall of Fame

Our group salutes the real heroes of our country

A feeling of patriotism grips one as we enter this divine place with exhibits divided into various sections.

The tricolor with some of the regimental flags

One of the soldiers described his experiences during war and the difficulties of daily life in high altitudes like the Siachen glacier. His power packed narrative left most people teary eyed and made us all feel proud of our soldiers and our country.

A proud moment with the valiant Siachen hero

Photographic depictions of the Kargil war with particular focus on strategic victories that led to a win are also displayed here.

Proud moments from Kargil

One section displaying various kinds of arms, ammunition, artillery, clothing , high altitude combat equipment , life saving devices and various important artefacts, acts as an eye opener to the common man.

Climbing equipment used in high altitudes like the Siachen glacier

A section aptly names “Lest We Forget” has the pictures of valiant soldiers who laid down their lives fighting the enemy along with a short description of the circumstances of their supreme sacrifice.

Lest We Forget

A particularly touching exhibit is “The Last Post”; a letter written by Capt Vijayant Thapar to his father a few days before his martyrdom. As we read the letter, tears will well up unknowingly in our eyes. It is so touching that we start feeling so small in front of the brave soldiers.

Ladakh Gallery

In addition to this is a gallery where traditional Ladakhi life is depicted.

Some exhibits from the Ladakh gallery

After visiting the museum, we had more insight into the difficulties of our defence personnel and we all felt indebted to them for the service they do to keep us all safe.

It was with a feeling of respect and patriotism that we left from the museum.

Throughout our stay at Ladakh, there were innumerable examples of the great, tireless and dedicated work done by our defence services.

Both at Khardungla and Changla passes, the strict and vigilant presence of defence personnel gave us a sense of safety and protection in the border areas.

A satirical comment with a deep meaning

The tagline says it all

Rescue and Disaster management

Though fortunately during our stay we did not have to witness this aspect of their work, we are well aware of the tremendous work they do when natural calamities strike. Ladakh with its unique landscape and ecosystem is particularly prone to these situations.

Other Services

Apart from the three main services, various ancillary services also do a difficult job at these difficult locations.

The BRO (Border Roads Organisation) does untiring work to keep the roads on these mountains in usable condition. Laying of roads connecting various remote locations and maintaining them under difficult climatic conditions is a challenging job indeed. By doing this, they ensure unhindered movement of troops and supply of essential materials besides making tourist access easier. All over Ladakh we find heavy duty equipment constantly working on the difficult terrain.

The temporary accommodation for the workers

Heavy equipment at work in difficult terrain

A short video on the difficult terrain that they work on. (click to open video)

A view of the tortuous roads in the area….

Do we think of the hands behind this difficult work as we ride here??

And all this work is done at high altitudes where we people cannot stand for more than a few minutes due to low oxygen !!!

Sitting in the comfort of our homes miles away from these border areas it does not occur to us that these men in uniform do such challenging jobs. When we visit places like Ladakh, we become aware of this .

It was with a patriotic spirit and tremendous respect for these valiant men that we left Ladakh.

On this high note, the series on Ladakh comes to an end. See you next week at…Japan. The series on Japan starts with an episode on Tokyo….

Till then, do subscribe, like and comment…

Unveiling the Mysteries of Leh: Magnetic Hill to Gurudwara

Although the episode on Leh is at the fag end of the series on Ladakh, we actually started our journey through Ladakh from here. After the mandatory acclimatization at Leh, we set out to discover Ladakh by visiting some of the interesting locations near Leh.

Magnetic Hill

This is an enigmatic hill around 25 kms from Leh on the Srinagar Leh highway. It is believed that the magnetic forces in the area can pull a stationary vehicle uphill. However, it is the peculiar topography of the layout that creates an optical illusion of an uphill road and hence stationary vehicles may appear to roll uphill when in fact they are rolling downhill.

Approaching magnetic hill

Our group at magnetic hill

Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa is a Buddhist Stupa located on a hillock in Leh.

It was built in 1991 by a Japanese monk to promote world peace and to commemorate 2500 years of Buddhism . Signifying the close relationship of the Japanese people ; it is a two level structure.

Entrance to the Stupa

Shanthi Stupa

The first level features a golden Buddha image sitting on a wheel or Dharma chakra.

Buddha sitting on the Dharmachakra

The second level has reliefs depicting the birth, nirvana and other landmarks of Buddha’s life enshrined by the Dalai Lama himself.

Reliefs showing birth of Buddha and defeat of devils

Mahanirvana

One of the beautiful paintings at the Stupa

View of the Himalayas and Leh city from the hillock

Since our hotel overlooked the Stupa, we had a good view of the lit up stupa from our room..

The lit up Stupa

Leh Palace

This palace ; overlooking the city of Leh ; was once the residence of the royal family but is more of a museum and tourist destination now. This partially dilapidated palace under the Archaeological Survey of India, is being restored while retaining some of its ancient architecture.

The palace was built by Sangge Namgyal in 1600 AD and was the royal residence till the Dogras attacked Ladakh in mid 19th century forcing the royal family to relocate to Stok Palace .

The palace is nine storeys high with the upper floors being the royal residences and the lower ones being used as stables and stores. Built of mud, wood, sand and stone in Tibetan style, a visit there gives us an insight of ancient Ladakh.

The Leh Palace

A climb up a fairly steep series of steps brings one to the entrance of the palace.

The steps leading to the entrance. Note the elaborately decorated windows

The main entrance with typical local decoration

After a flight of stairs, we reach the hall with exhibits along all four sides. These exhibits describe the various aspects of the palace.

The main hall with exhibits all around

The bamboo and wood ceiling and an exhibit describing the palace

The Palace has open terraces at many levels offering panoramic views of the city and surrounds. These terraces were venues of performances by artists with the royals watching from the balconies above.

One of the terraces

The balconies from where the royals watched the performances on the terraces

Apart from this, the palace has a wide collection of traditional arts and treasures.

The Palace museum is a storehouse of traditional Ladakhi jewellery, ceremonial dresses, crowns and other artistic treasures. Thanka paintings , in as yet preserved vibrant colours adorn the walls of the upper floors.

The paintings in various stages of decay and repair

The palace also houses some shrines of Maitreya Buddha and Siddarth Patra with thousand hands.

Some of the shrines in the palace

A short film that details the history and passage of the palace through different eras is also continuously screened in one of the upper floors.

The view of the Himalayas and Leh city from the upper floors is amazing indeed!!

Gurudwara Pathar Sahib

Our next destination was the Pathar Sahib Gurudwara on the Srinagar Leh highway about 25 kms from Leh. This Sikh temple was built in 1517 to commemorate the visit of Guru Nanak Dev, the founder guru of the Sikh faith .

A boulder with a hollow impression of the back, head and shoulders of Guru Nanak Dev is worshipped here. Legend has it that a wicked demon who wanted to kill Guru Nanak pushed a boulder down on him but the boulder (pathar in hindi) melted like wax and left the imprint of the sage and hence the name.

The shrine was an abode of peace and tranquility and calmed down our minds after the long day outdoors.

Some pictures…

The shrine

A plaque explaining the legend of the shrine

During the visit we saw lot of Army personnel sitting and reading religious books here. It must surely be a haven of peace for the wonderful souls how stay away from family and friends to protect our country!!

With a feeling of deep gratitude, we returned to our hotel looking forward to another exciting day at Leh..

Next episode will bring more from Leh. Till then, do subscribe, comment and like the posts…

Nubra Valley: Unique Attractions and Scenic Beauty

The Nubra valley lies to the north of Leh between the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges of the Himalayas. In contrast to the rest of Ladakh ; it is more green with lots of wild flowers and shrubs .The word Nubra is derived from the Ladakhi word Ldumra meaning an orchard or garden.

The villages that make up Nubra lie on the banks of the Shyok river that originates in the Karakoram ranges and merges into the Indus. The other important river is the Nubra river (Siachen). These rivers make the valley a fertile region where wheat, barley, peas, mustard, apples, walnuts and apricots are grown. This makes the general ecosystem of Nubra more green unlike the rest of Ladakh which is primarily a cold desert

The Shyok river

Apart from the natural beauty of the lush green valley against the backdrop of the snow clad Himalayas, Nubra has a lot to offer the tourists.

While driving from Leh to Nubra, one crosses the Khardungla Pass at a height of 5359 mts and is the second highest motorable road in the world. Khardungla has already been covered in detail earlier in an episode on the Himalayan passes.

The road to Khardungla Pass

Khardungla Pass

The Diskit Monastery (often called Diksit)

Diskit village is the most important village of the valley and it hosts the Diskit monastery that sits on top of a hill providing magnificent views of the valley and the Shyok river.

A giant Maitreya Buddha ( Buddha of compassion) statue standing 32 mts high looking towards Turtuk, the last village on the Indian side close to Baltistan in Pakistan. This statue was consecrated by the Dalai Lama and it is believed to bring lasting peace to the region which has seen turbulent times.

Diskit Monastery

The giant Maitreya Buddha

The Hunder sand dunes

The sand dunes located at Hunder village stretching over a few kilometers were formed after a historical flood in 1927. They provide a desert landscape with the snow capped mountains in the backdrop and highlights the diverse ecology of Ladakh.

The sand dunes

A small stream was flowing along and we relaxed by soaking our legs in the icy waters…

Relaxing in the icy stream

Double humped Camels( Bactrian Camels)

These camels are a tell tale sign of the trade that took place hundreds of years ago on the Silk Route. The caravans travelling between central Asia and Kashmir used to stay in the villages at Nubra . After the closure of the silk route, these hapless animals found themselves left behind here. Their descendants entertain tourists in the Nubra valley with camel rides which sustain them.

The double humped camels

Camel rides at Nubra

Nubra valley also has ATV rides and zip lining as entertainment activities for tourists.

ATV Rides

Enroute, we had lunch at a local restaurant where we were served the local Seabuckthorn juice. The unique Seabuckthorn berry also called the Leh berry is widely found here all along the way among the shrubs.

Seabuckthorn berries and the juice.

After a long day on the road we reached our resort at Nubra where we were put up in Swiss tents. Some pictures from the resort.

Our resort at Nubra and a typical Swiss tent

That night we had a bonfire and cultural show with local ladies entertaining us with graceful dances. Some pictures and videos..

Bonfire

The dancers in vibrant costumes

Click on the video to enjoy the dance

And finally we posed with the dancers…

The night of rejoicing came to an end after sometime as temperatures dropped and we hastily retreated to our tents to catch some sleep.

Next morning we bid goodbye to Nubra and started our journey towards Pangong .

Hope you enjoyed this journey through the Nubra valley. See you next week with more from Ladakh.

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Adventures in Ladakh ; Rafting, ziplining and more

Ladakh with its unique ecosystem provides ample opportunities for adventure sport which are highlighted here.

The Indus River (Sindhu)

The Indus river literally flowed in and out of our lives during our stay at Ladakh. Our visit to Ladakh was just a month after the deadly terror attacks at Pahalgam. The military, political and diplomatic developments following this had caused the Indus river to come into focus and there was a certain connect that we felt with this mighty river that is the lifeline of Ladakh.

We first saw the river on our way from the Hemis monastery and we did have a photo session .

The Indus river with a monastery perched on a hill in the backdrop

Close to this point we had an opportunity to zipline across the Indus river. Some pictures from that wonderful experience…

Geared up to zipline…

Ziplining across the Indus river (click on video)

Sangam Point

This is the point of confluence of the Indus (Sindhu) and Zanskar rivers at Nimmu ; 35 kms from Leh on the Srinagar Leh highway. It is visible from a height from the road and after a short walk down some steps, we can reach the Sangam point.

The confluence looks stunning with the two rivers of different colors merging together. Both these rivers hold religious significance to the locals and a dip here is believed to rid one of his sins!!

The muddy Zanskar meets the clear Indus at the Sangam point (view from top)

At close quarters also, the two colors can be seen

A bridge across the river is seen from Sangam point…


The bridge across the Indus and the roads going parallel to it on either side

At the Sangam, we did river rafting on the Zanskar river. We were eight people in a raft with a guide . He instructed us initially and then guided us as we tried to manoeuvre the raft.

Few pictures from the rafting experience…

All set to go

The rafting expeience on the Zanskar

After the rafting experience, we had lunch where we got to savour some local Ladakhi dishes.

Ladakhi restaurant and our group at lunch

Thenthuk is a noodle soup where the noodles are flat and made of wheat flour . Mixed with vegetables or meat, it is a thick soup that is often a complete meal for the locals.

Thenthuk with momos, rice and dal

Post lunch we set off to the moon….yes ; our next destination was Lamayuru, where the landscape resembles the surface of the moon.

Lamayuru and the moonland

Known as the moonland of Ladakh, the rugged landscape and unique geographical formations make it an interesting spot. The views here reminded me of Bryce Canyon national park in the US but to a much smaller scale . The views during sunrise and sunset must be quiet captivating with changing angles of light.

How moonland was formed

This area was a lake some forty thousand years ago caused by damming of the Lamayuru river by a tectonic shift causing a landslide. Over the years the lake dried up leaving the sedimentary deposits which have been eroded by wind and water resulting in these gullies , ridges and hoodoos. This has given it the appearance of the moon surface.

The drive to Lamayuru itself was beautiful with cliffs overhanging the road on one side and the Indus river flowing down below on the other side.

The drive to Lamayuru ( click on video)

The general landscape at Lamayuru

The rugged landscape and unique geographical formations

Lamayuru is also home to a famous monastery.

By now we were quite tired and headed back to our hotel with memories of an adventurous day…

Do subscribe, like and comment till I come back with the next episode.

Ladakh’s Stunning Buddhist Monasteries

Think Ladakh and the picture that arises in your mind is of a landscape of snowclad Himalayan peaks dotted by those quaint architectural buildings ; many of them on hills with winding roads and steps leading to them. Well , these are the Buddhist monasteries of Ladakh which add unique charm to the Himalayan landscape.

These monasteries of Ladakh have an old world charm about them and are remnants of Tibetan culture that has been retained here. Most monasteries are complexes that comprise of prayer halls, temples, courtyards, stupas and the living quarters of the monks.

They have typical architectural features with white exteriors , windows lined by delicately carved woodwork and painted in red, black and yellow colours , stupas in the courtyard, and multi colour prayer flags fluttering all over. Prayer wheels of different sizes adorn both the exterior and interior and the soothing chants of Buddhist hymns calms our minds as we explore them. Monasteries are store houses of ancient manuscripts, thangka paintings and house beautiful statues.

In most monasteries , bowls filled with water are seen offered at the altars in addition food, flowers and incense.

Let us walk through some of these monasteries…

Hemis Monastery

Hemis monastery is one of the largest and wealthiest of the monasteries and is located about 40 kms from Leh. One needs to climb a flight of stairs to reach the monastery and there are beautiful arches and prayer wheels along the passage.

The stairs with decorated arches leading to the monastery.

The stairs lead us to an open courtyard with the monastery building right ahead. The balconies and windows have delicate wooden carvings on them painted in attractive colours.

The courtyard and monastery building

The Hemis monastery is most famous for the Hemis festival held in this courtyard in the month of July. The famous Cham dances are enacted here with the dancers wearing colourful masks.

File picture of Hemis festival

We had a wonderful experience when we reached the monastery. It suddenly started snowing and we enjoyed the experience along with views of the monastery.

This also acquainted us with how fickle the weather in Ladakh can be as it had been bright and sunny earlier on

Snowing at Hemis….click on video to enjoy the experience!!

Thiksey Monastery

This largest monastery of Ladakh is built identical to the Potala Palace in Lhasa in the 15th century overlooking the Indus Valley and is often called mini Potala.

This monastery has 12 floors and houses 10 temples with precious and rare statues and stupas .

Thiksey Monastery

Thiksey Monastery

Our group in front of Thiksey monastery

Here too, there stairs adorned with colourful arches that lead to the main monastery building.

A huge prayer wheel

The main monastery building

One of the main attractions here is the beautifully decorated and adorned Maithreya Buddha statue that is 40 feet tall. He is known as the future Buddha or Buddha of Compassion and was consecrated by the Dalai Lama.

Maitreya Buddha statue

Photography restrictions were minimal here and hence here are some pictures from inside the monastery…..

Some pictures from inside the monastery.

Tara devi who is believed to be the mother of Buddhas has a temple dedicated to her here.

There are beautiful murals on the walls of the monastery

Beautiful murals

Views of the Indus River and valley and the Himalayan peaks from the top of the monastery are beautiful…

Beautiful view of the Himalayas, Indus river and valley from Thiksey

This monastery is home to about 80 monks.

Some of the monks in traditional attire

Alchi Monastery or Alchi Choskor

Alchi monastery is one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh built in the 11th century by Lama Rinchen Zangpo on the banks of the Indus river. He is believed to have travelled from Kashmir across the Zojila pass and translated many texts from Sanskrit to the Bodhi language. Due to this, this monastery has a mix of Indian and Tibetan cultures.

Built on level ground and surrounded by brick walls, this simple structure, escaped attention of invaders and survives till date.

A walking stick belonging to the lama from which a tree has grown is preserved at the complex. It is decorated with the traditional Ladakhi white scarf .

This monastery is unique in that it is a conglomerate of small buildings and wooden structures . There are three main buildings here : the Assembly hall, the Sum-tsek and the Manjushri temple. The Sum-tsek is a three storey structure with the statues of Bodhisattva, Avalokiteshwara and Manjushri.

It is well known for the beautiful paintings and frescoes that adorn its walls. They depict Buddhist teachings, celestial beings and Mandala art in great detail. Many of the murals have faded and restoration work is on at the monastery. The beautiful murals and vivid Mandala art in the monastery cannot be brought to you as photography is prohibited in those areas.

Here are some pictures from the exteriors which will clearly show the difference between Alchi and the pomp and splendor of the other monasteries. Take a look…

The walking stick of Rinchen Zangpo from which a tree has grown

The exterior of the buildings at Alchi monastery

The prayer wheels

The Indus river which flows right behind the monastery

Dikshit Monastery

This monastery is located in the Nubra Valley on a hill and houses the giant Maithreya Buddha statue. The views of Nubra valley from atop the monastery are beautiful.

Dikshit Monastery

The giant Maithreya Buddha statue is placed facing the direction of Baltistan in Pakistan and it is believed that the Buddha will bring peace to the region.

The giant Maithreya Buddha statue

View of Nubra valley from Dikshit monastery

These are some of the monasteries that we visited in Ladakh. There are many more and each one has a legend of it’s own.

I hope you enjoyed the ambience and culture of these monasteries.

See you with more from Ladakh.

Till then, do subscribe, like and comment…

Khardung La & Chang La: A Guide to Ladakh’s High Passes

The Himalayas form a continuous mountain chain to the north of India and have several passes spanning the states of Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh ,Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand and several North Eastern states. A pass is a path that passes through or across a mountain range and provides access to areas surrounding the mountain. Typically they are formed by glaciers, rivers and melting snow that erodes the mountain range.

The major mountain passes located in Ladakh are, Khardung La, Chang La, Zoji La ,Umling La, Tanglang La, Imis La and Bara Lacha La. The word La means pass.

We visited Khardung La and Chang La passes during our trip to Ladakh and those will be our focus in this episode.

Khardung La Pass

Khardung La lies in the Ladakh range, 39 kms. north of Leh connecting the Indus and Shyok river valleys. At a height of 5359 mts ( 17,982 ft ) Khardung La serves as a gateway to the Nubra Valley and is a crucial point in transporting supplies to Siachen glacier.

Historically, Khardung La lies on the silk route to Central Asia and was used by caravans of horses and camels

Today, there is a road that takes one to this pass. The construction of this road was started in 1972 and completed by 1976. This road was open to the public in 1988. The BRO (Border Roads Organisation) maintains this road today and it is the second highest motorable road in the world. The initial part of the road is paved but there are areas along the road that is mainly loose rock and dirt , partly caused by the extreme weather conditions of the area. All along the route we can see road construction work going on with heavy duty equipment maneuvering the difficult terrain.

Road to Khardung La-the second highest motorable road in the world

The difficult mountain road to Khardung La

As we drive along, we find a lot of adventurous bikers from all over the world on their way to Khardung La . Many of them have the national flag on their bikes giving a lot of patriotic feel.

A group of bikers on their way

One can see snow round the year at Khardung La but during the winter months and after sunset, the drive may be very risky due to frost leading to slippery roads.

Reaching Khardung La

At Khardungla Top , the snow, the summit markers and colored Buddhist flags welcome us. The view from there is simply breathtaking with snow covered mountains all around.

The milestone on the top

At Khardung La top

The amazing views from the top

And not to miss this cryptic message from the BRO…

A cryptic and meaningful message from BRO

The high altitude is a deterrent to spending more time here and after the photos and enjoying the views for some time, we came down to a less crowded spot to enjoy ourselves by playing in the snow.

Playing with the snow

After some exciting time at Khardung La, we drove down to Nubra valley . More on Nubra valley later.

The other Himalayan pass that we traversed during the Ladakh trip was the Chang La.

Chang La

Located on the route to Pangong lake, Chang La has an elevation of 5391 mts (17,688 ft) and offers beautiful views of the Himalayan ranges. Chang La which means “Pass towards the South” is the third highest motorable pass in the world.

The drive to Chang La is equally challenging with steep , winding roads which have been damaged at places due to landslides and extreme weather conditions. Most of the road is asphalted but at places it is loose soil and stones.

The steep winding roads to Chang La

Interspersed with snow fields and azure lakes in the distance, the drive is heavenly indeed!!

The snow fields and azure lakes enroute

Click on the video for an experience of the drive…

After this breathtaking drive we arrived at Chang La where the prayer flags and summit markers greeted us to wonderful views.

Some pictures from Chang La…

At Chang La

Our group at the Chang La summit marker

Right at the summit is a temple dedicated to a sadhu known as Chang La Baba.

Temple dedicated to Chang La Baba

The Indian Army has significant presence at Khardung La and Chang La. The most obvious reason of course is security. The passes are particularly vulnerable areas close to our borders and the security forces are on constant vigil and they also oversee the safety of the tourists arriving there.

There are many sign boards depicting the work of the Indian Army at the summits.

Another Message from The Indian Army

Problems of altitude

Due to the low oxygen saturation of the air in these high altitudes, breathing difficulties may be encountered and hence, we stayed there only for a few minutes. People with heart conditions and breathing problems must take proper medical advice and carry necessary medical supplies while traveling to these destinations.

Our vehicles were equipped with oxygen cylinders and necessary supplies during this trip.

Take a Bow

When we visit these areas where life can be a challenge at every point, we really feel indebted to the defence personnel manning these places. All along the difficult route small camps of the services can be seen. The personnel who work here stay away from their families and live through the extreme and unpredictable weather conditions with constant danger of the enemy. They do a lot of sacrifices so that we can live a peaceful life.

Apart from the main Defence forces, The Border Roads Organization (BRO) does a great job of building the roads and maintaining them. We are able to travel to these places only because of the great work they constantly do.

There is also a DRDO research station close to Chang La.

I hope the trip through the mountain passes was thrilling. See you next week from other destinations in enchanting Ladakh.

I close this episode with a sense of gratitude to the Indian Army and the allied services and with a sense of pride to be an Indian. Jai Hind.

Till then, do subscribe, like and comment.