Category: India

Dal Lake ; the jewel of Srinagar

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Kashmir

The term Dal Lake is a misnomer as the term Dal in Kashmiri means lake! Covering an area of 18 sq kms and with a shoreline of more than 15 kms, this lake is known as the jewel of Srinagar.

This iconic lake of Kashmir is infact made up of three lakes and does not fit the conventional picture of a lake. It is a maze of waterways and channels , well linked with each other . It has open areas which look like a typical lake and there are houses which seem to have been built on water. The houseboats which are anchored along its edges look like boats on an island and it has islands that look as if they are floating on the lake . The multicoloured ornate shikaras remind you of the gondolas of Venice and to top it all, there are areas of cultivation where farming seems to be happening on the surface of a lake !! All this against the backdrop of the snowcapped Himalayas and beautiful willow and chinar trees lining the boulevard that skirts the lake.

Come, have a look at some beautiful pictures of Dal lake….

Dal lake with shikaras and the Himalayas in the backdrop

The skirting boulevard with chinar and willow trees

Narrow channels of the lake with shops on either side

The shikaras take you on a pleasure trip on Dal lake when they take you through the narrow channels and floating markets

The floating market

Houseboats and shikaras are integral to Dal lake and are a source of livelihood for the locals through tourism . The houseboats provide accomodation to the tourists and the shikaras ferry them to and fro .

The houseboats and their functioning will be dealt with in detail in another episode. Suffice it to say now that Dal lake, houseboats and shikaras are inseparable!

Houseboats moored along the sides

Colourful shikaras floating around

The Char Chinar or 4 chinar trees on an island

Dal lake is integral to the lives of the locals. The sights of houses built on the lake with activities going on like ashore can be amazing to visitors like us. Women rowing boats across the lake for their daily shopping and children going to school on these boats is a common sight.

Houses that seem to have sprung up from water

Cultivation on Dal Lake

A Kashmiri woman and her kids go about their daily life

There is even a floating post office on the lake!!!

A floating PostOffice!!!

Sunset on Dal lake can be very mesmerising. Apart from that, as the darkness sets in, the lights from the boulevard reflecting on the lake shore and the lights of the houseboats can look beautiful indeed!

Sunset on Dal Lake

And finally, the lit up houseboats

The Floating Gardens or Rad

These unique floating gardens will welcome you with lotus blooms if you visit Srinagar in July /August. These are locally called Rad and consist of matted vegetation and earth that is cut off from the bottom of the lake and pulled away to a convenient location and moored. This is an important wetland in the region . Tomatoes, cucumber and melons are also seen growing here and if you observe the water, they actually float.

The lotus blooms and cultivation in the Floating Gardens

Dal is also an important source of commercial fishing .

A fisherman quietly fishes on dal lake…

All this is summer on Dal lake. Winters on Dal lake look totally different. With temperatures plummeting to sub zero levels in Srinagar, the lake freezes partially or even completely at times. Dal lake in winter can look totally different like in the pictures below…

Winters on Dal Lake…

With the reversal of insurgency in the Kashmir valley, tourism has seen a continuous upsurge. A large number of hotels, restaurants and other commercial establishments have sprung up along the shores of Dal lake.

Crowds in peak season

As a consequence, Dal lake faces the threat of eutrophication (excessive nutrients leading to overgrowth of plants and algae) with deterioration of water quality due to untreated sewage entering it. The lake has also shrunk in size . At present extensive restoration work is taking place in the Dal lake to address the issue of pollution and eutrophication and restore the waters to its old glory.

I have ended this on a rather sombre note. That’s just to highlight the importance of responsible tourism so that the bounty that nature has blessed us with is sustained.

See you next week with the inseparable part of Dal lake; the houseboats and shikaras. Till then; do subscribe, comment and give your feedback…

Srinagar; city of “Shri”

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Kashmir

Srinagar, the largest city and capital of Jammu and Kashmir lies on the banks of the Jhelum river at an elevation of 5200 ft surrounded by the beautiful Himalayas . Home to lakes, gardens, meadows and hills, its houseboats and shikaras ( gondolas) are its identity. Infact, the Dal lake and its shikaras have given Srinagar the nickname of Venice of the East. A variety of handicrafts and dry fruits are also a speciality here.

Srinagar, a perspective…

Srinagar in Sanskrit stands for city of “Shri” (Goddess Lakshmi).

Starting with Emperor Ashoka, Kashmir has been under many kings and dynasties including the Mughals and they have all left their unique stamps on this “Heaven on Earth”. 8th century temples have been discovered near Srinagar apart from various Hindu shrines worshipped by Kashmiri Hindus. Mosques were built during the period of the Sultans and Mughals. During the Mughal era, Srinagar prospered and various gardens like the Shalimar and Nishat were built in that period. Afghans ,Sikhs and Dogras followed as rulers of Kashmir but the decay of the city started. Indian independence was followed by the accession of Kashmir to India. Insurgency gripped Kashmir in the 1980s and various instances of riots and massacres followed. Administrative crackdown followed and resulted in checkpoints and bunkers at various places in the city seen even today.

Suffice it to say that the “Heaven on Earth” has seen tumultous times ; the consequences of which are visible even today. Srinagar is heavily dependent on tourist inflows and it has seen hard times during the insurgency. The last decade has seen the gradual improvement of the situation and resurgence of tourism. In fact this year has seen record tourist inflows. Let us hope it continues to stay that way so that every one can visit this heaven….!!!!

The city lies on both banks of the Jhelum river as it meanders through the valley. There are nine bridges that connect both sides of the city . A number of lakes and swamps are present here . Dal , Nigeen and Anchar are some of the popular lakes while the wetlands of Hokersar are a great destination for migrating birds from Siberia.

Visiting Srinagar

A visit to Srinagar can be a different experience each time as the city changes its characters with the seasons.

In spring and summer, a houseboat stay, a shikara ride on the Dal lake, a visit to the floating markets and of course the Mughal gardens and the famous Tulip Garden will enthrall you.

In winter, it becomes a winter sport and adventure sport destination and looks totally different when draped in snow.

Enjoying the special cuisine is yet another experience!

Venice of the East

The multiple lakes with navigation channels all over have given the city this nickname. Dal lake and Nigeen lake have houseboats , while Wular is the one of the largest freshwater lakes in Asia.

Houseboat tourism is one of the biggest revenue generators of Kashmir. These houseboats are stationary and anchored along the banks of the Dal lake. More on Dal Lake and its houseboats and shikaras in future episodes…

Nigeen Lake

Mughal Gardens

Srinagar has many of the gardens built during the Mughal era all over India. Shalimar, ChashmeShahi and Nishat are some such gardens that are on the way to becoming world heritage sites. More on these in later episodes.

Mughal gardens

Shankaracharya Temple

This 9th century temple , perched atop Shankaracharya Hill, is evidence of Hindu culture and philosophy having left a stamp on Kashmir.

This temple is considered the oldest temple in Kashmir and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Kashmiri Hindus believe that the temple was visited by Adi Shankara during his spiritual journey across India . He is believed to have meditated in a cave close by , and as a tribute to his visit, the temple came to be known as the Shankaracharya Temple.

The temple is easily accessible by road to the base of Shankaracharya Hill. From there, a flight of approximately 250 steps leads to the temple complex. The last few steps are quiet steep. It is important to get there as early in the morning as possible so that you can get dropped close to the steps .If you reach later than 9.30 then you will have to walk up the road quite a distance as there is no place to park the car near the ascent.

Built with strong stones with a conical roof, the primary deity of the temple complex, Lord Shiva, resides in the sanctum sanctorum in the shape of a lingam. There is also a statue of Adi Shankara in the temple.

Ample resting area with proper shade is available at the top and 360 degree views of Srinagar can be seen from the top.

The temple is used for regular worship and pilgrims visit the temple during the Amarnath Yatra too.

The hill, temple and steps leading to the deity

View of Dal lake from Shankaracharya temple

Hazratbal Shrine

Also called Dargah Sharif, this is a holy shrine of the Muslims. Located on the banks of Dal lake, a hair of Prophet Muhammed is preserved here.

It has a long history. The site where the mosque is today was a garden during the reign of Shah Jahan. The present day mosque has a marble edifice and dome completed in 1979.

Hazratbal shrine

Lal Chowk

This city square in Srinagar was built similar to the Red square in Moscow and is really the center of all activity here. The iconic clock tower here is called Ghanta Ghar. It has seen many renovations and is a mix of contemporary and classic architectural design.

It has been witness to many unfortunate incidents during the times of insurgency in Kashmir. Today, many political meetings , community functions and festivals are celebrated here.

A lot of shops are located around this and it is one of the main shopping centers in Srinagar.

Lal Chowk

A shopkeeper arranges dry fruits in his shop at Lalchowk

Hari Parbat

This is a hill overlooking Srinagar city and has a fort and multiple shrines.

The fort was built by Emperor Akbar in 1590 but was never completed. The present fort was built in 1808 during the Durrani Empire.

There are multiple shrines at Hari Parbat. Hari Parbat is sacred to Kashmiri Hindus and Goddess Parvati with 18 arms sitting on the Sri chakra is worshipped in a temple here. A mosque called Makhdoom Sahib and Gurudwaras are also present at Hari Parbat.

The Hari Parbat, fort and temple

More Shopping!!

Last week we looked at some unique products to shop in Kashmir. Well, there are a few more.

Kashmiri paper mache products

Paper mache was introduced in India by a Persian saint on his journey through Kashmir. He also brought some skilled craftsmen from Persia. The local artisans then added their own designs and today we have a wide array of typical Kashmiri paper mache products.

Pen stands, jewelry boxes, paper holders and even storage containers are available and look very attractive.

Kashmiri Paper Mache items

Kashmiri Wazwan

This is a multicourse meal of Kashmiris considered the pride of Kashmiri culture. It has mainly nonveg dishes ; usually lamb or chicken with few veg dishes.

Kashmiri Wazwan

That sums up Srinagar for you. Next week we will visit Dal Lake and soak up the ambience there.

Till then, do subscribe, like and comment.

Paradise on earth; Kashmir

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Kashmir

“If there is a paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here “…. this is how the great Urdu poet Amir Khusrau described Kashmir . Kashmir is blessed with lush green meadows, snow capped mountains, crystal clear streams, lakes and picturesque landscapes evoking this very same sentiment in the minds of any traveler to Kashmir . Its natural beauty has been described in innumerable works of literature and memoirs apart from it being showcased in multiple films.

Let me start my series on Kashmir with a general roundup and then get into each of the places in detail in following episodes.

How did Kashmir get its name?

Legend says that an ascetic by name Kashyapa reclaimed the land from a lake leading to the place being called Kashyapamar and later Kashmir. The word Kashmira is also believed to denote “got from water”.

Visiting Kashmir

Visiting Kashmir can be an experience like no other. Be it the blooms of varied hues and the green meadows in spring or the snow covered white landscape of winter, Kashmir has a special appeal in every season .

From the houseboat stay and a shikara ride on Dal lake, to the Mughal and Tulip gardens and the bustling streets of Srinagar ; to a pony ride on the calm and peace of the meadows of Pahalgam ; to the gondola ride and snow of Gulmarg, Kashmir offers a variety of tourist opportunities. To do some justice to each of these experiences, I will be dealing with them in separate episodes. For now, I will just leave you with some pictures of the natural beauty of Kashmir….

The Dal lake and shikaras

Meadows of Pahalgam

Snowcapped Himalayas

The Mughal gardens

The ski slopes of Gulmarg

Now that I have given you a visual idea of what to expect in the the upcoming episodes of this series , let me take you through few unique experiences which are common to most parts of Kashmir.

The mustard fields, saffron and apple orchards are a unique draw of this place and let us have a look at them.

Mustard fields

The mustard fields are very special to Kashmir and vast areas of yellow can be seen even from the flight making one wonder what it is?

Yellow fields interspersed with green as seen from the flight

The mustard flowers announce the onset of summer and all along the highways, they provide a beautiful sight against the snow capped mountains. Mustard is of high economic value to the locals too.

The yellow carpet of mustard flowers

In a mustard field along the highway

Saffron

Another specialty of Kashmir is the saffron. Saffron gives a golden color and a distinctive flavor to food. Used widely in Kashmiri cuisine, it is one of the most expensive spices in the world and is called Red Gold. Selling at 3 to 3.5 lakhs per kilo, it is costlier than precious metals.

It comes from the orange red stigma of the purple flowers of the saffron plant. It takes thousands of flowers to make one gram of saffron. Earlier on saffron was widely cultivated in Kashmir but now, it is mainly restricted to the Pampore area. It has to be delicately handled and is mostly handpicked by women.

Saffron

The harvested saffron flowers. Note the orange red stigma…

Dry Fruits and Nuts

Dry fruits and nuts have a special place in several local dishes and are used extensively. Markets in Kashmir are flooded with such dry fruits and nuts. The more popular ones are walnuts, almonds, apricots and figs.

Walnuts

Kashmir’s blush…the apple orchards

Known popularly as Kashmir’s blush, the apple trees droop with the red fruit bringing cheer to the farmers of the valley from August to October . Kashmir accounts for more than 70% of the national apple production . Sopore town is known as the Apple town of Kashmir.

Visiting Kashmir in April, one can see the trees full of white apple blooms. A visit to an apple orchard is an addition to the routine tours. Fresh apple juice is served here. Some pictures…

Apple orchard

Walk through an apple orchard (click on the video)

Kahwa

A local speciality of Kashmir, this is a drink; a tea made by boiling green tea leaves with saffron, cinnamon, cardamom and sometimes roses. It is served with sugar or honey and often garnished with walnuts and almonds. Sometimes the infusion is only of the spices without the green tea.

It is prepared in a special vessel called a samovar.

Kahwa

The Samovar

Shopping in Kashmir

Besides the ethereal beauty that Kashmir posses it also offers excellent shopping opportunities to tourists. Apart from saffron and dry fruits, the region offers exquisite and culturally unique items that make for memorable souvenirs and cherished gifts.

Pashmina Shawls

You may be well aware of the famous Kashmiri shawls made of Pashmina wool. This wool is extremely soft and is obtained from the special breed of goats called Chanthangi goats. These goats are reared predominantly by a nomadic Buddhist tribe called Changpa in Ladakh, Nepal and Kashmir.

These shawls are hand crafted in traditional designs and are known for their soft texture, warmth and durability.

A traditional hand embroidered Pashmina shawl

Kashmiri Carpets

Kashmiri carpets are considered one of the best of the oriental carpets. They are hand knotted , making them durable. The designs are typically Kashmiri and are either very expensive made of pure silk or wool or made more affordable with mix of rayon and wool.

A traditional hand knotted silk carpet

Carved Walnut Wood

Several utility items made of carved walnut wood can be found in Kashmir. Intricate Kashmiri designs are carved on tables, trays, pen stands, toys and even the wall panels of houseboats !

Intricately carved walnut wood decor

Traditional Kashmiri jewelry

Bangles, earrings, anklets and necklaces, all handcrafted and in typical Kashmiri designs is another big draw among the tourists. A traditional jewelry article called Halqaband, is a tight choker made usually in silver and gold and sometimes in brass and is a trail of interlocking sections joined together with thread. It has rubies and other precious stones and sometimes mirrors studded on it. Dejhoor is a dandling ear ornament worn by brides. Women often come in shikaras to houseboats selling these items.

Traditional Kashmiri jewelry

That is Kashmir in a nutshell for you….

From next week we visit each of the unique destinations . Srinagar, the capital will be our first destination. See you next week at Srinagar…

Till the, do subscribe, like and comment.

Araku Valley

by Leela Gopinath, posted in AndhraPradesh, India

Araku valley is a hill station in the eastern ghats located about 110 kms from Visakhapatnam. Araku valley is famous for its coffee plantations and is home to various tribes. Having heard a lot about this place, we decided to visit Araku valley from Vizag.

Araku Valley

A popular tourist destination in Andhra Pradesh, Araku ia at an elevation of about 3200 ft and is known for its greenery, coffee plantations, spices specially pepper, waterfalls and streams and a rich tribal culture.

Ananthagiri and Sunkrimetta reserve forests are a part of the Araku valley. Galikonda at an elevation of 5000 ft is the highest point and there is a viewpoint there from where you can see the plains below. Trekking is a popular adventure activity here and lot of camping sites are available.

Bee keeping is a popular occupation here among the tribals.

Our Trip

Driving down from Vizag we headed to Araku valley. The road to Araku valley was not particularly good and the drive was not very comfortable. Farmlands with paddy cultivation formed the landscape for a considerable time. After that we hit some winding roads with bamboo forests on either side.

Bamboo forests enroute Araku

Soon we were among some coffee plantations

Coffee plantations and pepper vines

Pepper and coffee pods

Soon we were at Galikonda view point from where we could see the plains below

View of the plains from Galikonda

At Galikonda, we happened to see some tribals in their traditional attire.

A shy tribal and others in traditional attire

Camping sites with tents were seen at many places as we drove along.

Camping sites

Many of the tribals engage in bee keeping and the honey is sold along the roadside.

Bee farming and local honey for sale

Another interesting place to visit is the tribal museum.

Tribal Museum

This museum houses various items used by the tribals and showcases their way of life.

Some pictures…

Tribal Museum

Tribal jewellery and art

Some exhibits

After visiting the museum, we savored some fresh Araku coffee before heading back.

Authentic Araku coffee

Returning back, we visited the famous Borra caves.

Borra Caves

Located in the Ananthagiri hills, these interesting stalactite and stalagmite formations are formed by the flow of the Gosthani river over limestoine deposits. It was discovered during a geological survey by William King and are believed to be over a million years old.

There are several legends attached to these caves. The most popular one is of a cowherd accidentally discovering it when he went looking out for his lost cow. He discovered a Shiva ling in these caves and soon a small temple for Lord Shiva was built here.

These caves are a major tourist attraction today . The constant flow of water has sculpted these rock formations into various shapes like Shiva Parvathi, Rishi’s beard, Brain, Mushroom etc.

Some pictures…

Entrance and the shrine

Inside Borra Caves

After visiting the caves we drove back to Vizag ending our day long trip to Araku Valley.

Honestly, it did not live up to my expectations. Probably I had been influenced by rave reviews on social media which led me to have high expectations !!!

So all in all, do go if you feel like it but you will not miss much if you don’t….

Next week, I start a new series on Kashmir. So meet you there….

Till then, do subscribe, like and comment…

The Submarine Museum

by Leela Gopinath, posted in AndhraPradesh, India

All of you would have visited museums some time or the other. But have you visited a museum in a submarine? Well ,may be few of you have….

As was mentioned in the last episode, Visakhapatnam is the headquarters of the Eastern Naval command of the Indian Navy. So the Navy has several establishments here and one of them is the submarine museum.

Let me take you today to this novel museum which is inside an actual submarine!

This museum , located at Visakhapatnam is a decommissioned submarine INS Kursura which was in active service for 31 years. After decommission, it was dedicated to the nation and is preserved as a museum for the public.

A brief history of INS Kursura

INS Kursura was India’s fourth submarine built in the Soviet Union and commissioned in 1969. She was attached to the Western Naval Command and operated in the Arabian Sea during the Indo-Pak war of 1971. After participating in several anti submarine warfare exercises and various other operations, she was decommissioned in 2001.

Once decommissioned, the entire submarine with it’s weapon package was hauled up from the sea to a concrete platform at R.K Beach at Visakhapatnam and established as the first submarine Museum in South Asia in 2002. This was a joint operation of the Eastern Naval command and the Naval Ship Design and Research Centre. It is recognized as a War Memorial.

The Museum

The submarine is placed close to the beach and one can see it from the road as one drives past. Surrounded by well manicured lawns, it is a sight to behold.

The submarine museum as seen from the road

The Submarine

As one steps foot on the submarine, a sense of pride and patriotism flows in naturally to us. We can climb up a fleet of stairs to enter the museum.

The stairway to the submarine museum

Once inside, we can see a number of artifacts, pictures and articles used during wars. We can also see gadgets and weapons that are on display. This gives an idea of the evolution of submarines, showcases the might of the submarine arm of the Navy, and reveals the hardship and toils of life on a submarine. The interior has been suitably modified for this but at the same time retaining it’s original form.

It gives you the feeling of actually being inside a submarine. Once we stay inside for some time, a feeling of claustrophobia engulfs us. It is then that we realize how difficult it is to actually live inside a submarine for days together. That is what our Naval personnel do in times of war, and they have to be continuously on high alert too!!

Have a look at some of the pictures and that may perhaps throw light on their difficult lives….

A room with the model of an officer and the small place they have to operate from

The pantry and bunker beds for sleeping. ( the low roof makes the place claustrophobic)

The narrow passages with equipments and low head clearance forcing us to bend

Various levels inside the submarine

These pictures would have given you a fair idea of the difficulties when the personnel live inside for months together

Immense regard and respect for our armed forces just comes in automatically when we see all this.

There are a couple of Naval personnel there who explain the details to us also. Though there are many technical details which we may not understand but the overall experience of actually entering a submarine is something entirely different.

Outside also we can see the parts which are otherwise under water….

The propeller and rudder ( at the back of the submarine)

The front of the submarine with torpedo tubes and the anchor resting on the floor.

Glimpses of life on a submarine: (something I learnt during this visit)

 Submarine personnel undergo rigorous training including damage control, drills and emergencies, battle tactics and escape training through a tower. 

 Space is limited in a submarine and equipments and life saving gadgets get priority over daily comforts.

Sleeping in bunkers to save space is a rule and many times they take turns to use the bunker.

Maintenance of equipment, drills and safety exercises are a daily routine.
The kitchen has limited space and hence no elaborate meals can be expected.   

Around 70 personnel share two toilets at sea. 


 We left the museum with mixed feelings. Patriotism, regard and respect for our armed forces and a thought for the families of these personnel who also sacrifice a lot so that we all can live safely in our homes….JAI HIND…

For completion sake, let me attach a file picture of Kursura at sea…

INS Kursura sails by….

After visiting the submarine museum, we continued on to the other interesting sights in Visakhapatnam. Next week, we visit some of Araku valley and Borra caves. Till then, do comment and give your feedback.

Visakhapatnam: city of (Visakha)

by Leela Gopinath, posted in AndhraPradesh, India

Once upon a time, there was a fisherman’s village named Vizagapatnam on the east coast of India abutting the Bay of Bengal. Today, it’s geographical location has made it a busy port city and the headquarters of the Eastern command of the Indian Navy. Vishakapatnam is also a major industrial hub on the Indian coast . Lying between the Eastern ghats and the Bay of Bengal, it is home to some beautiful beaches, and hills.

How did it get it’s name?

You must have noticed the word Visakha within brackets in the title. That is because there are various explanations.

A temple dedicated to Visakeshwara, the Hindu God of valour built by the Chola Kings is belived to be submerged just off the coast of the city giving it it’s name.

Some attribute Visakha to be a Buddhist princess and others to a Buddhist monk named Vaisakhi .

Yet another explanation is that the word “isakha” in Telugu (local language) means sand and the vast sand expanses along it’s beaches contributed to the name.

A brief history

It was part of the Kalinga empire and conquered by Emperor Ashoka. During this period, Buddhism flourished here with construction of significant monuments which can be seen even today.

It has also seen the reigns of the Pallavas, Cholas and Gangas over time. European colonisation started in 1630 with the Dutch, French and British all taking control at various points in time. They have all left their marks on this city.

After Indian Independence, it was under the Madras presidency and finally became a part of the state of Andhra Pradesh.

Our Trip

Landing in Vizag was a beautiful sight though it was a little hazy. The port and Dolphin’s nose were visible from the aircraft inspite of the haziness.

Landing at Vizag..the port and Dolphin’s nose are clearly seen.

We were put up at Hotel Novotel which overlooks Varun Beach, one of the famous beaches at Vizag . Great views of the ocean were the highlight besides an infinity pool which visually merged with the sea. The port being close by, lot of shipping activity was also visible.

Varun Beach view from hotel

The infinity pool visually merges with the ocean

Ships await berthing at the port.

A ship being guided by tug boats into the harbour

The beach road becomes a pedestrians only road till 7 am in the mornings and the locals use the road for walking and such other activities.

Beach road in the morning

And at night…..

Beaches of Vizag

The Ramakrishna beach, Varun beach, Rushikonda beach , Bheemili beach and the Dolphin’s nose are the popular beaches in Vizag.

Ramakrishna beach is so called due to the Ramakrishna Ashram close by. It is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike.

Enjoying a dip at R K Beach

Opposite the beach are several monuments and museums.

The aircraft museum and memorial opposite RK beach

Submarine Museum

INS Kursura, a submarine of the Indian Navy is preserved here and converted into a museum. More on this in another episode.

The submarine museum

Rushikonda Beach

This beach is around 8 km from Vizag but has an interesting name meaning Hill of the sages. Seven learned sages are believed to have meditated on the adjoining hill. Water sports are an added attraction here.

Rushikonda Beach

Bheemili beach

Located around 24 kms from Vizag, this beach lies near the Gosthani river and has British and dutch settlements nearby. It is more of a rocky beach.

The rocky Bheemili beach

Dolphin’s Nose

A rocky head shaped like a dolphin’s nose is a conspicuous landmark in Vizag and can be seen even from the flight and has a light house.

Dolphin’s Nose

Kailasagiri

Another interesting location is Kailasagiri, a hill from where you get great views of the city and the ocean. A 40 ft tall statue of Shiva and Parvati in a garden adorn the hilltop and gives it it’s name. A toy train ride on the top takes one around giving 360 degree views. A ropeway service is available here. One can also drive up to the hilltop.

Some pictures

View of Vizag and beaches from Kailasagiri

The ropeway to the top and the toytrain on top

The park and the weather dome

The Shiva Parvati statue

Thotlakonda Buddhist Complex

Situated 15 kms from Visakhapatnam on a hill overlooking the sea is this Buddhist complex. A stupa and various other monuments stand as a reminder of the Buddhist influences in the history of Visakhapatnam. Archaeological excavations at the site have only reinforced it.

Some pictures…

Thotlakonda Buddhist Complex

That sums up the interesting locations in Visakhapatnam. Araku Valley and Borra caves are interesting destinations near Vizag that will covered later.

Next week we visit INS Kursura, the submarine which is now a museum.

Till then, do give your comments and feedback…

Biryani and Pearls; Hyderabad

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Telangana

Today we do a quick roundup of various attractions in and around Hyderabad. Having covered Golconda and the museums earlier, this episode covers the other destinations.

Qutub Shahi Tombs

These are the tombs of the kings of the Qutub Shahi dynasty of Persia/Iran who ruled this area . The tombs are located just one kilometre from the Golconda fort. One can see the domes of these tombs from the top of Golconda fort.

These tombs are present in a large group and is unique in that the entire dynasty is buried in the same place making it a one-of-a-kind tomb in the world. There are seven such tombs in the complex. These tombs which have intricate stonework on them , lie in beautifully landscaped gardens called Ibrahim Bagh. An amalgam of Persian and Hindu architecture adds to its uniqueness.

Each tomb is quadrangular and rises above a flat raised terrace. Some of the tombs have double stories. The tombs are surrounded by beautifully crafted minarets. The domes were studded with blue and green tiles once upon a time , but now, most of it is damaged.

Just like in Golconda fort, these tombs also have unique acoustic features due to the diamond cuts on the undersurface of the domes.

Exterior of one of the tombs

The decorated entrance and undersurface of the dome

The tomb itself

A QutubShahi heritage centre is coming up in the complex.

After seeing the tombs , we were headed to the iconic image of Hyderabad; The Charminar.

The Charminar

Once again connected to the Qutub Shahi dynasty, the reason to build this monument is still not clear. There are various opinions on this.

Some of the reasons propounded are that the Sultan built it in memory of his wife Bhagmati at the place where he saw her for the first time. Queen Bhagmati later embraced Islam and assumed the name Hyderi Begum after whom Hyderabad is named. An epidemic of plague had wrecked havoc and the king is supposed to have built it as an offering when the epidemic ended. Another version is that it is supposed to commemorate the start of the second Islamic millenium. Let us leave these legends aside and see the structure itself which is real…..

Built with granite and mortar, this square monument measures twenty metres on each side and faces thoroughfares on all four sides. Each corner has a pillar or minar hence the name Charminar which translates to four pillars. Each of these pillars has four stories with each floor divided by artistically carved rings. One can climb around 150 steps to reach the top from where you get a good view of the city. There is a mosque on top of the monument. Each pillar looks like a lotus leaf and each side has a clock too.

The iconic Charminar

The intricate art work on the Charminar

The area around the monument is Ladd bazar and has a lot of roadside stalls selling clothes ,trinkets and other souveniers . Roadside eateries claiming to serve authentic biryani and faloodas abound.

Hyderabadi Biryani is famous for its unique taste due to the right combination of various Indian spices, meat and the aromatic rice that is used. A visit to Hyderabad is incomplete without tasting the local Biryani.

The area is extremely crowded and one can easily get lost in the maze.

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View of Ladd Bazar and famous Hyderabadi Biryani

Hussainsagar Lake

This artificial heart shaped lake built in 1563 , again by one of the Qutub Shahi kings covers an area of 5.7 sq kms. It separates Hyderabad from Secunderabad. It was built by the King for drinking and irrigation purposes of his subjects

A 18 mt high monolithic Buddha statue chiseled out of white granite was erected in 1992 and stands on a rock in the center of the lake. Regular boat services are available to the statue. It is lit up at night and adds to the beauty of the lake. In addition, the lights along the Tank Bund reflecting on the lake is a beautiful sight.

Husainsagar Lake with Buddha Statue

The lit up Buddha Statue and reflection of row of lights on the lake

Husainsagar lake is a popular sailing destination where regattas are conducted regularly by various sailing associations. Multiple parks surround the lake area and provide entertainment of various kinds to the visitors. Musical fountains, boating facilities, a laser auditorium are some of the attractions in the Lumbini Park, NTR Gardens, Sanjeeviah Park and a few of such parks located around the lake.

The Telengana Secretariat is located right opposite the lake and the imposing building looks attractive specially when lit up at night.

Telengana Secretariat

The Amara Jyothi

This is a Martyr’s Memorial near the lake . Shaped like a flame, it is the largest seamless stainless steel structure in the world and is five times bigger than the cloud gate at Chicago. At night, the flame is lit up and the base reflects the light from the surroundings giving it a terrific appearance !

The Amara Jyothi or Martyr’s Memorial

The lit up memorial with reflection of the Secretariat on it

The Tank Bund has statues of various eminent personalities too.

The lake has deteriorated today with unplanned urbanisation and sewage dumping. The depth of the lake has reduced due to silt accumulation and many undesirable changes have taken place in its biological communities. A plan to correct this damage is being implemented.

Hyderabad Zoo

Hyderabad has a relatively well maintained zoological park covering a vast area. Most of the inhabitants roam around freely in their assigned areas and are separated from visitors by moats. They have a buggy system where you can alight at your chosen destination and board the next buggy to go elsewhere. This was really convenient as the area was very huge . There are facilities to book a safari too.

It had been a long long time since we visited a zoo and this one brought back memories of childhood picnics. Some pictures…

The safari area and the buggy

The bear and the hippo

Enjoy the tigers playing around in this video

Pearls

Last but not the least, Hyderabad is known as the city of pearls. This is due to its booming pearl processing and trading industry. The Qutub Shahi kings and the later rulers who ruled the area for over 200 years were very fond of pearls and this attracted craftsmen from all over the world to this area. The pearls formed an integral part of the traditional regalia and crushed pearls were known to have healing and beautifying properties. The persian gulf was a source of pearls for a long time but with the discovery of oil and consequent pollution led to a decline in pearl supplies from there and this also led to Hyderabad slowly becoming a pearl destination.

Pearl Jewellery

This brings us to the end of this episode. Next week we move on to Andhra Pradesh . Till then, do comment and give your feedback.

The Museums of Hyderabad

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Telangana

Two of the most beautiful museums/palaces are in Hyderabad and today we have a look at them. The vast collection of antiques that these museums have will surprise you. And the peculiar part is that most of these are collections of one individual. The interest in art and architecture that was nurtured is really amazing. The palace which is now a museum has such beautiful architecture and decor that it will leave you stunned!!

Come along…let’s see the palace first…

Chowmahalla Palace

Once the residence of the Nizams of Hyderabad, this palace is a museum today though the ownership still lies with the Nizams. The present day palace was built by the Nizam at the location of one of the existing palaces of the Qutub Shahi dynasty. Since he built four palaces, it is called chow mahalla meaning four palaces.

Though the construction started in the 18th century, it went on over a few decades resulting in the integration of many architectural styles. It primarily has two courtyards, a durbar hall,fountains and gardens. What was originally covering an area of 45 acres; is only 12 acres today!

As one enters the palace gates, we are in the Northern Courtyard where there is a long central quadrangle with corridors on either side with a pond and landscaped lawns in the middle. Right opposite the entrance and forming the third side of the quadrangle is Durbar Hall or the Khilwat Mubarak.

Durbar Hall

This is considered the heart of the palace as it was the seat of the Nizams. Decorated marble pillars rise from a marble floor. The Royal Seat or throne made of marble adorns the centre of the Durbar Hall. Beautiful chandeliers of various sizes drop down from an elaborately carved ceiling adding to the splendour of the hall.

The Durbar Hall

At the Durbar hall with the chandeliers and the throne

The beautiful ceiling and corridor of the durbar hall

As mentioned earlier, the palace is a museum now and has exhibits under various categories . Most of them are articles used by the Nizams and their exhaustive collections of antiques.

The seals used by the Nizam and a collection of porcelain

Beautiful paintings reflecting various events in the palace are also displayed.

A painting of all the Nizams

A painting of a durbar in session

The other interesting thing at the palace is the collection of vintage cars and other transport from a bygone era…

One of the vintage cars displayed

The Southern Courtyard is also a quadrangle but the sides of the quadrangle are formed by the four palaces with a central fountain. The palaces are built symmetrically opposite to each other . The palaces have huge columns and the artwork on the exterior of these palaces is outstanding indeed.

Afzal Mahal, one of the palaces

The beautiful artwork on the palace exteriors

Going through the exhaustive collections in the Chowmahalla Palace museum, we were astouned at its sheer volumes. But our next destination Salar Jung Museum surpassed even this.

Salar Jung Museum

Established in 1951 at the ancestral palace of the Salar Jung family this museum was moved to its present location in 1968. The Jung family served as prime ministers to the Nizams of Hyderabad . This collection is a repository of art objects from Europe, middle East, far East and Indian art and heritage works from the Maurayan times to the Mughal era. Most of it is the collection of Salar Jung III. The museum has a manuscript section and a reference library.

Some pictures…

The Salar Jung Museum

Eastern Porcelain gallery

Ivory gallery

Kondapally toys and Indian Bronze

Indian Art and Textiles

One of the most popular exhibits here is an Italian Marble sculpture of Veiled Rebecca.

Veiled Rebecca

This is but a small example of the vast collections in this museum. Besides this, the walls of the central quadrangles are painted with murals and there is an ancient musical clock which is functional even now.

A mural on the wall of the centre court

The Musical Clock and it’s history

After walking through the various galleries at the museum, we were amazed at the sheer volumes of a personal collection!!

Tad tired after the long walk, we returned back to the cool comfort of the car and back to the hotel.

Next week, we cover some more interesting places in Hyderabad. Till then its goodbye…

Do leave your comments and feedback…..

Golconda ; the fort of diamonds

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Telangana

Once upon a time, in the 1600s, there was a fort in India with a vault storing some of the most precious diamonds of all time. The Kohinoor and Hope diamonds were among these stored here . Do you know which fort I am talking about? The historic Golconda fort located in Hyderabad.

At that time, India had the only known diamond mine in the world. These mines were located in the Guntur and Krishna districts in present day Telangana. These diamonds were cut and sold in the diamond market city of Golconda which lay inside fortressed walls. It was such a booming centre of diamond trade that the word “Golconda” became synonymous with great wealth and held a legendary aura about itself.

Today, if you visit Golconda, all that remains is the ruined walls of a fortress city , a far cry from the legendary aura that it once held. Ofcourse what remains of the walls and rooms does give the feel of pomp and splendour of the bygone era. Today, Golconda fort finds itself on the tentaive list of UNESCO to become a World Heritage site and is under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India.

Before I take you through the fort itself, a short history will help put things in perspective.

Golconda, a historical perspective

The fort itself was built in mud by the Kakatiya ruler, Prataprudra in the 11th century. It went from him to the Bahmani Kings and then on to the Qutub Shahi dynasty. It was under the Qutub Shahi dynasty that Golconda fort saw its expansion from the original mud walls to huge fortified granite walls and it became their capital. It was a great centre of cotton trade and cotton fabrics were even exported from there apart from the booming diamond trade .This brought great wealth to the Qutub Shahi rulers . This attracted the Moghuls and in 1687 , Aurangzeb led his army to the Golconda fort marking the beginning of Moghul rule in the region. After the fall of the Moghul Empire in 1724 , Golconda came under the Nizams of Hyderabad and subsequently after Indian Independence, integration of Hyderabad state occured.

Golconda Fort

As one drives in to Golconda fort, one passes through narrow crowded streets and suddenly encounters a fortified stone wall with an entrance. This is the Moti Darwaza and this wall is the outer wall of the fort stretching over a distance of 11 kms. We enter through this gate and continue to drive through narrow streets lined with old dilapidated houses and shops. People go about their daily lives in a hurry and I understand that this part of Golconda had the living quarters of the helpers of the rulers at one point of time and it is now home to their descendents. This was all part of the fortified city at one point in time.

The Moti Darwaza and the narrow streets that lie inside…

Continuing to drive along the narrow crowded streets, we reach an open area from where the actual fort can be seen. The inner part of the fort starts from here and this wall extends over a distance of 4 kms . It was within these walls that the royal family resided . After the tickets are purchased at the counter, one has to walk along a paved path with a manicured lawn on one side.

Then we reach an ornate doorway decorated with images of peacocks and lions indicative of the Hindu origins of this fort. The door is solid metal and looks very heavy. This is the BalaHissar gate.

The ornate doorway and the huge metal door at BalaHisar gate.

After you cross the gate and walk ahead , almost the first thing you encounter is the Fateh Darwaza. This gate or darwaza has a cannon mounted on its wall and if one stands beneath the dome and claps one’s hand, the sound is supposed to reach the top. This is supposed to be a safety measure to warn the inhabitants of impending danger. The dome has geometric cuts along the walls which provide this acoustic effect which is one of the specialities of this fort.

Apart from this, there are a couple of places in the palaces of the fort where this unique acoustic system has been put to use.

Fateh Dawaza ……Note the geometric cuts on the ceiling giving the acoustic effect

Crossing this door and walking along a paved passage, one gets a view of major parts of the fort…..an overview of the place…

The first views of the entire fort…

The paved pathway and at places a wooden one guides one through the ruins of the fort.

To the left of the pathway is an ornate building with multiple arches called tha Aslah Khana. This was the place where arms and ammunition were stored.

Aslah Khana

Continuing further, we reach the area where the offices of the kingdom were located. This also has elaborate arches with a storage loft above to store documents.

Walking along further, we come across the barracks where the foot soldiers lived. Now, this is strategically located at the outermost part of the fort

Barracks

Soon we reach the palace area with the lawns in the centre and the palace on one side called the Rani Mahal .There is a courtyard with a stage on the opposite side where Taramati and Bhagmati , the court dancers used to dance and the royal family enjoyed it. The centre court also has a ruined fountain. The makeup room of the queen lies adjacent to this.

Rani Mahal with the open courtyard

The Queen’s bath and makeup rooms

At many places, one can see the dilapidated and broken pipelines used in those days. The water to Golconda was transported by canals from Banjara hills and pumped using wheels.

There are two mosques within the fort. The first one is the Taramati mosque used by the commoners and the other one is the Ibrahim mosque located at the top and used by the royalty.

The Taramati mosque (left) and Mosque of Ibrahim

Nagina Bagh

This is a landscaped garden which was once the diamond trading centre.

Nagina Bagh

A climb of more than 350 steps takes one to the top of the fort where the Durbar Hall is located. As we climb up, we come across Ramdas Prison where Bhakt Ramdas was imprisoned. He had used money from the kingdom to build a temple for Rama and that led to his imprisonment.

Bhakt Ramdas jail and the steps to the Durbar hall

Climbing up , we first come across the Jagdamba Temple which is more than 500 years old. Legend has it that Prataprudran , the Kaktiya ruler built this temple here and the fort was built from there downwards later on. Even today, worship takes place at this temple.

Jagdamba Temple

Baradari or Darbar Hall

This was where public audiences were held and there are two buildings Diwan I Aam and Diwan I Khas around an elevated central courtyard.

Baradari and steep steps leading to it

From the central courtyard which is the highest point of the fort, one can get a beautiful panoramic view of Hyderabad city. The famous Qutub Shahi tombs where the Qutub Shahi dynasty was laid to rest can also be seen from here. There is a secret underground tunnel from here that leads to the tombs and Charminar. In case of enemy attack, the royalty could escape to charminar and in case of death, the body would be secretly laid to rest at the tombs. Meticulous planning and execution to meet all exingencies indeed!!

Bird’s eye view of Hyderabad and the domes of the Qutub Shahi tombs

A short rest in the darbar hall and a difficult descent down followed. The beautiful views of the fort as one descended compensated for the difficult trek. Some views…

Panoramic views of Golconda Fort

Tired after the climb and descent, I was happy to meet my driver and board the cool comfort of the car .

This marks the end of the episode on the diamond fort but there’s more coming from Hyderabad. So do continue to comment and feedback till I reach you next…

Darjeeling ; the land of Dorje

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India

Continuing our trip to NorthEast India, our next destination was Darjeeling. Starting from Gangtok we were driven down to Darjeeling by our tour operator. And I need not say….the drive was through hilly terrain with some beautiful views of the Himalayas.

A little bit about Darjeeling…

This quaint hillstation at an altitude of 6700 ft in the state of West Bengal in India has a colonial past. Darjeeling was originally in Sikkim and was leased out by the British to develop it into a summer retreat and English style cottages were built . Tea plantations were developed and a lot of labourers were recruited chiefly from Nepal. Widespread deforestation lead to displacement of the indigenous people. After Indian independence when the British left India, these cottages were bought by wealthy Indians and so were the plantations. This explains the colonial look of the buildings in the hillstation , the tea estates and the cosmopolitan population.

The name “Darjeeling” is derived from the Lepcha and Tibetan word dorje-ling meaning land of the thunderbolt. The dorje is a weapon found in most local homes and held by their deities. It is also the weapon of the Hindu God Indra.

The Dorje

Our Trip

The drive to Darjeeling was beautiful with winding roads, tea plantations and views of the mighty Himalayas. The Teesta and Rangeet rivers played hide and seek with us enroute till we reached a point where we could see them merging.

Some pictures from the drive to Darjeeling…

The misty hills, winding roads and the Teesta river

The confluence of the Teesta (muddy) and the Rangeet (clear) rivers

Late afternoon, we were at Darjeeling, checked into our hotel and rested for a while. Our hotel was walking distance from Chowrasta, the main shopping area in Darjeeling. So we walked up there and spent an evening soaking in the Darjeeling vibes.

Chowrasta

Chowrasta is the public square of Darjeeling lined with coffee shops and restaurants . It is a kind of meeting point for the people with small benches along the side for tourists to soak in the ambience. On a clear day, some of the Himalayan peaks can be seen from here including Mt. Kanchenjunga.

The Hawa Ghar ; a permanent stage where cultural programs are held and a statue of a Nepali poet adorn the square.

Chowrasta with the Hawa Ghar on the right

The fountain , statue and crowds at Chowrasta

View of Darjeeling town with clouds descending on it…

After soaking in the Darjeeling ambience, we returned for the night to our hotel.

Next morning, we were picked up for a local sightseeing trip of Darjeeling and our first destination was the Ghoom Monastery.

Ghoom Monastery

A monastery of the yellow hat sect of Buddhists, it houses a 15 ft statue of Maitreya Buddha. This statue is painted in gold colour and is embedded with precious stones. The monastery houses various rare Buddhist manuscripts and is a revered place of worship for the Buddhists.

The New Ghoom monastery is a huge building and houses several monks. The old Ghoom monastery lies below it and looks more traditional.

New Ghoom Monastery

Old Ghoom Monastery

Buddha Statue

Darjeeling is home to an important institute, The Himalayan Mountaineering institute.

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute

Founded in 1954 to commemorate the first summit of Mt Everest by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary,this is one of the premier mountaineering institutes in the world.

This institute trains aspirants in mountaineering and allied adventure activities. Tenzing Norgay served as the first director of this institute. There is a museum here that houses various treasured mountaineering displays.

Entrance to HMI

One of the inspiring exhibits and memorabilia at the museum

There is a statue of Tenzing Norgay and a rock named after him inside the institute. Interested visitors can attempt climbing this rock.

The statue of Tenzing Norgay and the rock for aspirant climbers.

Adjoining the HMI is the Darjeeling Zoo also called Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park. Many rare Himalayan species can be seen in this zoo. It is India’s highest altitude zoo.

Some pictures…

The Entrance

A Himalayan Panda…click on the video

A bear

Tiger Hill

This mountain in Darjeeling at a height of 8500 ft offers views of Mt Everest and Mt Kanchenjunga. A visit to Tiger Hill is recommended at dawn. We were picked up before sunrise and we drove up to Tiger Hill.

Spotting a leopard!!!

I can never forget this drive as I spotted a leopard just off the road scampering into the bushes as the lights of our jeep hit it. You will understand that just like the leopard, I was also taken by surprise and was not ready with my camera!!!

It was only subsequently that I realised that the Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary lies close to Tiger Hill and it is home to the Indian leopard.

At Tiger Hill , there is a viewing platform from where the views of sunrise over the Himalayas is awesome on a clear day. As the sun rises, the first rays falling on the snow capped mountains gives it a pretty orange hue which I was hoping for. Mt Kanchenjunga appears higher than Mt Everest as it is closer to Darjeeling. But, we were not so fortunate as we did see a sunrise but the clouds obstructed the Kanchenjunga views.

However, we enjoyed the thrill of waiting among the crowd for the Sun God to appear!

Some pictures…

What was expected….(a file photo for reference)

What we saw...if you look carefully, the mountain peaks are seen in faint golden colour…

Sunrise over the Himalayas….

The Peace Pagoda

Another shrine in Darjeeling is the Peace Pagoda which is aimed at uniting people of all races and fostering world peace. One can understand its relevance in today’s world!!

Built by a Japanese Buddhist monk, it houses four avatars of Buddha. The ambience there is calm and peaceful and suited for meditation.

Peace Pagoda

Last but not the least, we did visit some tea gardens nearby and also a tea factory. And of course savoured a lot of the famous Darjeeling chai at Keventer’s the colonial era restaurant that Darjeeling boasts of!!!

A tea estate

At the tea factory and enjoying tea at Keventers

That just about sums up our trip to Darjeeling. With lot more to cover in NorthEast India and hoping to come back for that, we bid goodbye to Darjeeling.

See you next week. Till then do subscribe, comment and give your feedback….