Category: India

Sikkim; beauty nestled in the Himalayas

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India

This was essentially our first trip to NorthEast India. A trip to Kalimpong, Gangtok and Darjeeling. Our first halt was Kalimpong, a tiny hillstation in West Bengal. After taking a flight from Chennai, we landed at Bagdogra airport one noon. We were picked up by our tour operator and driven down to Kalimpong.

Just after leaving Bagdogra airport, we passed through the town of Siliguri and then on , we were on to some beautiful scenery. The drive was through tea gardens for the major part. The peculiar thing here is the presence of tea gardens on flat land. Down south, all our tea gardens are on hill slopes; not so here.

Tea Gardens

Gradually we were climbing up and we could feel the chillness set in as the altitude increased. Finally, we reached our hotel in Kalimpong by evening and rested for the evening.

Kalimpong

Kalimpong is a tiny hillstation at the foot of the Himalayas in West Bengal with salubrious climate. It is famous for it’s Buddhist monasteries , Tibetan handicrafts and local flowers. It offers great views of the Himalayas and the Teesta Rangit valley of Sikkim.

We woke up to a beautiful sunrise over the Himalayas .

Sunrise over the Himalayas

After breakfast we were picked up on a sightseeing trip of Kalimpong.

Our first halt was at Durpin hill which has the famous Tibetan monastery Zang dok Palri monastery. It is one of the largest and oldest monasteries in Kalimpong and houses beautiful paintings and scriptures.It has nine stupas or chortens in the courtyard.

The Monastery and the nine stupas

From there we visited one of the beautiful flower nurseries of Kalimpong. The cactus varieties and their unique flowers were truly enchanting. Some pictures…

Beautiful Cactus flowers

Sikkim

After lunch, we drove down from Kalimpong to Gangtok (capital of Sikkim), a distance of little more than 70 kms. Though the distance is less, the road follows a hilly terrain and it was evening by the time we reached Gangtok.

Sikkim is one of the smallest states in India but houses 84 glaciers making it the state with maximum glaciers.

The views enroute were really beautiful , particularly the Teesta river.

The hilly terrain

The Teesta River

Gangtok

This city in the eastern Himalayas ; capital of Sikkim is a prominent Buddhist pilgrim centre. Sikkim was a monarchy when India became independent but subsequently merged with India in 1975. Gangtok was on the trade route with Tibet and flourished through the Nathula and Jelepla passes. However, these passes were sealed after the SinoIndian hostilities leading to the decline of it’s importance. Subsequently the Nathula pass was opened for limited trade in 2006.

The city lies on the lower Himalayan ranges at a height of 1650 mts on a hill side and as such is prone to landslides. Roads are on steep inclines and houses built along the sides making it inevitable to have steep steps for reaching the buildings. It also lies on an earthquake prone zone surrounded by dense forest cover which acts as an impediment to growth of the city.

Gangtok, the city on a hillside

The upper parts of the city have alpine vegetation which gradually changes to temperate as one comes down in altitude. Bamboo is found in plenty. Sikkim is famous for it’s orchid varieties too.

The most happening place in Gangtok is the MG road and Lal Bazar. It is a pedestrian promenade with no vehicular traffic and dotted with shops on either side.

Lal Bazar , the main shopping promenade

We visited Gangtok in April and that was the time of the flower show there. Orchids dominated the show. Some pictures..

A variety of Orchids

Rumtek Monastery

This is the largest Monastery in Sikkim and is the seat of the Karmapa who fled from Tibet to Sikkim. Also called Dharma Chakra Centre, it has typical Tibetan architecture and houses many monks who perform various ritual practices.

The interiors are colourful and have several relics. Some pictures..

Rumtek Monastery

The colourful interiors of the monastery

Tashi Viewpoint

Our next halt was at Tashi View Point. This charming place is a perfect place to witness the brilliant surroundings like mountains, valleys and Gangtok itself.

Great views of Mt. Kanchenjunga can be enjoyed from here. It is ideal to come here for sunrise as the different hues of colour reflect on the peak. Some pictures…

Mt. Kanchenjunga from Tashi

Tashi View point

The next day was the highlight of our tour to Sikkim. The visit to the Tsomgo Lake

Tsomgo Lake

40 Kms from Gangtok on the Gangtok – Nathula highway is this beautiful glacial lake which is also called Changu Lake. The road to Nathula pass literally surrounds some parts of the lake. Since the border with China is just 5 kms away, this area is under army surveillance and we find lot of army personnel here. Due to this, visitors to Tsomgo Lake require to take prior permission by submitting identity proof. This is checked at entry and marked again while leaving.

Located at an elevation of 3700 mts, the lake remains completely frozen in winter. The lake is surrounded by snow clad mountains which melts in summer to form the source of the lake. By May when the winter ends and the ice melts, there are beautiful Rhododendron flowers along the edge of the lake. We were a little too early for that!!

Rhododendrons

The Tsomgo lake is host to a number of migratory birds prominent among which are the Brahminy ducks. The migratory birds use the lake as a stopover on their way to the Indian plains from as far as Siberia during the winter months.

Tsomgo is believed to be sacred by Buddhists and Hindus and is shrouded in myths, beliefs and faith. Local legend has it that in ancient times, the Buddhist saints used to predict the future by observing the changing colour of the lake; a dark, gloomy tint told of difficult times and unrest in the region.

The Jhakris or faith healers of Sikkim attribute healing qualities to the water of this lake. Yak rides are an added attraction here.

The trip to Tsongmo was a rather jerky one, I must admit. Due to the extremely hilly terrain, the roads are winding up hill slopes and it is uneven and many places there were blocks due to rocks and boulders falling on the road. The road climbs 7500 ft within a span of 35 kms making it one of the steepest inclined roads.The drivers here are experts, and they literally take you on the edge of a ledge with a ravine below. All in all, it was a risky ride. That is probably the reason, that the vehicles move in a convoy .

Our convoy to Tsomgo

The winding roads…

There were waterfalls along the way…

A waterfall on the way

But at the end of it, the views were awesome!!!

A signboard explaining the sanctity of the lake

Tsomgo lake and the reflection of the Himalayas…

On the banks of the lake with some army personnel in the backdrop

The Yak is ready for a ride….

File photo of the same lake fully frozen in winter

There is a small cafetaria close to the lake where we had a quick bite and started our journey to Nathula Pass. There was lot of uncertainity about this part of the trip as bad weather was predicted but we managed it.

Nathula Pass

This pass at 14,150 ft connects Gangtok to Tibet and is located in the Himalayan ranges.It was once a trade route but was sealed in 1962 after the India-China war. Squirmishes along the area between the two sides was common. It was reopened in 2006 for trade and as it offered an alternative route for the Kailash Mansarovar Yatra. However, due to bad weather, trade is restricted to only few months in a year. Needless to say, variations in Indo China relations affects tourist accessibility here.

Some pictures..

Map showing location of Nathula and the road leading there

Nathula Pass

Memorial at Nathula

We just managed to look around and the weather dramatically worsened. We were all asked to leave immediately and we did so. Back in the safety of our vehicles, we waited in the long queue of leaving vehicles. Enroute we encountered some delay due to land slips which were being cleared by the BRO (Border Roads Organisation).

With beautiful memories of an alpine lake, we retired for the night with dreams of an exciting ride to Darjeeling the next day.

See you at Darjeeling next week. Till then, do subscribe, comment and give your feedback.

Kodagu; Beyond Koffee

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Karnataka

Tasting Coorg coffee, let us continue our journey through Kodagu visiting some of it’s highlights. The Nagarhole Tiger reserve is perhaps it’s main highlight and let us start from there. Come along….

Nagarhole National Park

The Nagarhole National Park and Tiger Reserve is part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve and lies along the Brahmagiri hills in Coorg. Sandalwood and teak trees abound in this park which is home to the Bengal Tiger, gaur, Chital, Sambar and elephants and a variety of birds. The Nagarhole River winds through jungle landscapes of this park giving it the name Nagarhole meaning serpent river and joins the Kabini River near Bandipur. This park is contiguous with Wayanad and Bandipur sanctuaries.

A jungle safari through this park can give one an opportunity to see it’s inhabitants. Some pictures….

A misty morning at Nagarhole

On a brighter day…

Elephant walk….

Langur time….

Enroute Nagarhole is a famous waterfall called Iruppu falls.

Iruppu Falls

Located on the highway to Nagarhole, this waterfall is also called Lakshman Tirtha falls. A trek from the falls takes one through the forest to Brahmagiri peak. The Lakshman Tirtha river starts from here and there is a famous Shiva temple on it’s banks.

Iruppu Falls

Moving away from Nagarhole , let us visit some important sights near Madikeri

Abbey Falls

One of the most picturesque sights in Coorg is the Abbey falls where the Kaveri river cascades on a rockface in between coffee plantations. It is located about 8 kms from Madikeri and one has to climb down a flight of stairs to reach this waterfall.

Abbey Falls

The steps leading to the falls

Nisargadhama

Located about 30 kms from Madikeri and close to Kushalnagar is this bamboo forest and deer park on the banks of the Kaveri. Boating facilities are available here. A hanging bridge over the river is another attraction. Some images..

Kaveri at Nisargadhama

Hanging Bridge

The bamboo forest and deer park

Harangi Dam

A dam built on the Harangi river, a tributary of the Kaveri also lies close to Kushalnagar town. The dam and the gardens offer a nice picnic spot . A small hydro electric project and an elephant camp also functions here.

The dam and reservoir

The elephant camp

The Namdroling Monastery

Kushalnagar is a Buddhist hub and there are many Buddhist institutions in the area. The more popular one is called the Golden Temple or Namdroling Monastery.

The Namdroling Monastery

More pictures from inside the monastery…

Inside Namdroling monastery

Dubare Elephant camp

Visitor interaction with elephants is facilitated in this camp located on the banks of the Kaveri river. Bathing and feeding them with sugarcane and jaggery are popular activities offered here. Elephant rides into the forest and information on elephant biology by trained naturalists are added attractions here.

Feeding area at Dubare

Bathing elephants in the Kaveri at Dubare

Talakaveri

Talakaveri is considered the origin of the river Kaveri and hence a sacred place for the Hindus. There is a tank here which is fed by a spring that is considered to be the source of the river. A temple dedicated to Kaveramma who is worshipped by the Kodavas is located here.

Forests surround Talakaveri

The tank and temple at Talakaveri

Bhagamandala

This is a place of confluence of three rivers and is a sacred place. The Kaveri joins two smaller rivers here; the Kannike and Sujyothi. A Shiva temple next to the confluence also attracts pilgrims. Many devout perform rituals for their departed ancestors here before proceeding to worship at Talakaveri.

The confluence of the three rivers at Bhagamandala

Shiva temple at Bhagamandala

It must be obvious by now that there is no dearth of interesting sights near Kodagu. I have tried to cover most of them. Hope you have enjoyed your visit to Kodagu.

Next week we move away from Karnataka to Sikkim . Till then, do comment and give your feedback.

Kodagu, the coffee cup of India

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Karnataka

Who would not fancy a hot cup of freshly brewed coffee?

Whether you like it black , with milk or with cream ; a cup of coffee makes every morning special.

Well, today let us visit Kodagu/Coorg , nicknamed the coffee cup of India.

Kodagu lies on the eastern slopes of the Western ghats and enjoys salubrious climate almost all round the year. Kodagu is actually the name of the district and when we talk loosely about going to Coorg what we mean is go to Madikeri and the surrounding areas.

A brief on Coorg and the local inhabitants before we indulge in more coffee talk….

The original inhabitants of Kodagu were the Kodavas who were a warrior community. The British annexed Coorg and deposed the local Kodava rulers. They did help improve the infrastructure, introduced scientific initiatives in coffee farming and contibuted to the overall development but there was a lot of exploitation of the resources and man power from here. It subsequently became part of Mysore state ( now Karnataka).

The Kodavas, the original inhabitants have largely retained their cultural identity and this can be seen in their attire and customs. The sari, the traditional dress of Indian women is worn in a different style here. The men wear a knee lenth black wrap around coat called Kupya, a silk sash around the waist and typical head gear. A dagger tucked into the sash completes the attire.

The traditional attire of the Kodavas

Since most Coorgi households are coffee planters, the house is inside or adjacent to a coffee estate and the harvesting and processing of coffee beans is an integral part of their lives.

A kodava house in a coffee estate

Kodavas are fond of non vegetarian food and meat ; particularly pork (pandi curry) and alcohol are served at weddings and even religious ceremonies and pujas. Traditional Coorgi food is Kadambottu or steamed rice balls served with spicy meat gravies.

Traditional Coorgi food

Coffee Talk…

Coffee was first introduced in India in the 17 th century by a saint Baba Budan who smuggled a few coffee beans during his Mecca trip and planted them at Chikmagalur in Karnataka. Both Chikmagalur and Kodagu produce most of Indian coffee today. Let us talk about Kodagu coffee…

Largely an agricultural district, Kodagu is the largest producer of coffee and pepper in India today . Cardamom, rubber, and oranges are the other important produce.

As one drives in Coorg, coffee plantations on either side of the road welcome you. Misty mornings in a breathtaking landscape of lush green hills ; Kodagu has climatic conditions ideal for coffee cultivation and that explains the vast coffee estates here. Mainly two varieties of coffee are cultivated here, Robusta and Arabica.

The coffee estates

Coffee shrubs and pepper vines

Coffee and Pepper ready to harvest

Spice shops line the road at every few metres…

Most of the homestays and hotels in Kodagu arrange for a plantation visit. That can be a different experience for the urban bred.

A coffee estate walk

Coffee berries are handpicked as they have to be at the right stage; neither too ripe nor raw. These berries are then dried out in the sun for a couple of weeks. Then the seeds of the berries are separated by removing the skin and dried pulp.

Drying of Coffee berries and extracted beans

The seeds are then stored after grading. Before use, the seeds are roasted and powdered to get you the filter coffee powder available in the market.

Many of these stages are automated by the large coffee cultivators while the smaller farmers use traditional methods. Fermenting the coffee bean and roasting are the two stages which can alter the aroma and flavour of your next cup. So these are carefully monitored.

Cuppers….

Coffee tasters also called cuppers play a role in determining the taste and flavour of your next cup. The cupper assesses the quality of beans, then “noses” the brew for the aroma. The actual step of tasting begins with the cupper slurping a spoonful of coffee spraying it all over his tastebuds before spitting it out. Difficult to accept , but expert cuppers taste hundreds of coffee varieties a day and still tell the subtle differences!! After all this, I really wonder if the cupper can enjoy his actual cuppa like you and me??

A cupper’s work table

To brew the coffee we buy from the market, in traditional south Indian style, we use a coffee filter. The coffee powder is placed in the filter and hot water is passed through it to extract the flavour. The decoction is then had diluted as black coffee or added to boiled milk to get a cup of freshly brewed filter coffee . Automatic coffee brewing machines are now available of course!

Instant coffee powders are made industrially using various steps.

A traditional coffee filter used at home and an automated filter

And that explains the journey of the coffee bean from birth till it comes to you in a cup as coffee…

Well, I hope you enjoyed the journey of the coffee bean just as you do your morning cuppa!!!

Delving more deep into Kodagu, next week we visit some of the interesting sights around Madikeri. Till then, enjoy your coffee… but don’t forget to give your comments and feedback…

Sakrebyle , Elephant rendezvous

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Karnataka

Elephants; the gentle giants , are dear to all of us ; more so to children. So when we saw our granddaughter’s excitement on seeing elephants on the screen, we decided to give her a hands on encounter with these lovable beings. That’s what led us to Sakrabyle, the elephant camp near Shimoga in Karnataka.

A 310 km drive from Bangalore and we were at Shimoga.

The drive to Shimoga

The best time to visit the camp is early morning before the crowds and the heat and so we halted overnight at Shimoga.

A preview of the elephant camp and facilities available before I get into our experiences…

Sakrebyle Elephant Camp

Maintained by the Karnataka Forest department, this camp is a forest camp for captive elephants brought here for training and rehabilitation from many places. Elephants that may have had illnesses , nutritional issues, behavioural issues like rogue elephants or those that were orphaned or abandoned are housed here in the forest camp. A dedicated team of specially trained mahouts train and rehabilitate these gentle giants.

The Forest Camp

They live inside the forest camp opposite the area where tourists interact with them. This forest area also has accomodation for tourists run by Jungle lodges and resorts. The accomodation in the Jungle lodges is very good and safari facilities are there. (Unfortunately, we could not get accomodation at this jungle lodge which would have been ideal). If you book with Jungle lodges, they take care of everything and also they bring you to the interaction area in a buggy saving you the trouble of getting the tickets etc.

The Jungle Lodge and tourists being brought to the interaction area

Every morning, the elephants are brought from the forest to the interaction area.

The elephants coming out of the forest camp

The interacion area is a large open ground with multiple activities. This area lies on the banks of the Tunga river where the giants have their bath. The most popular activity here is an opportunity to bathe the elephants under the supervision of the mahout.

Our trip

Driving down from Shimoga early morning, we reached the camp well on time to join the front of the long queue for tickets.

The counter and the long queue

As we were waiting at the ticket counter, the elephants were being brought in for their daily rituals under supervision of mahouts.

The entrance for the elephants and one of the elephants walking in

A short walk lead us to an open area overlooking the Tunga river

The open interaction area

The beautiful Tunga river

The elephant family walks to the Tunga

Ready for a bath in the Tunga river

The mahout starts the bathing process…

And we joined in….

After helping with the bathing ritual, we stood around and watched as more elephants came and went through their daily routines

Visitors watch the elephants ….

After the bath, the elephants are fed at an enclosure and visitors can also participate in the feeding of the elephants. Since we were to leave to our next destination, we did not wait for that. Elephant rides are also available from there.

Returning to our hotel in Shimoga we proceeded to Kollur for our annual pilgrimage there and then on to a fun destination near Koteshwar. The little one was all excited about her encounter with the giants and her stories continued for a few days.

Let me stop here for now .

Next week we are at coffee land. Till then, do keep your comments and feedback coming….

Jog Falls

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Karnataka

The Sharavati river in Karnataka plunges down a vertical cliff to form the famous Jog Falls or Gersoppa Falls . A beautiful waterfall specially in the monsoons, this SHOULD be in your bucket list!!

Come on…let me take you there virtually….

The Jog Falls ( just after the monsoons)

Legend of Sharavati

The Sharavati River originates at a place called Ambutheertha in Karnataka. Legend has it that Lord Ram shot at the ground with his arrow (Ambu) to quench his wife Sita’s thirst. Out poured the water (Theertha) from the earth. Since this event marked the beginning of the river , it got it’s name Sharavati where “Shara “means arrow.

The Sharavati River near Honavar where it joins the Arabian Sea

At Jog, the water drops 253 mt ; making it the third highest waterfall in India after the Nonkhalikai (Meghalaya) and Dudhsagar falls.

The fall comes down a deep chasm in four parts called Raja, Rani, Roarer and Rocket falls. This waterfall changes itself seasonally depending on the rainfall. Its true might is displayed during or just after the monsoons. The presence of the Linganamakki dam also affects the volume of water in the falls.

The falls during the dry season with much reduced waterflow

There is a viewpoint located right across the falls from where we can actually watch the falls and there is a series of steps to go down to the bottom of the falls.

The viewpoint

Enjoy the video of the falls in monsoon

The other interesting activities that can be combined with Jog falls:

Sharavati Wildlife sanctuary ,Dabbe Falls and Linganamakki Dam visits.

Sharavati Wildlife sanctuary

The Sharavati river basin is rich in biodiversity and also has the Sharavati Wildlife sanctuary.

The Sharavati Wildlife sanctuary in the Western ghats is covered with evergreen forests and grassy hilltops. It harbours rich wildlife like bison, deer, boar, jackals,leopards and the malabar giant squirrel. A visit to this wildlife sanctuary can be combined with a Jog falls visit.

Deer at Sharavati Sanctuary

Bison

Dabbe Falls :

It is about 35 kms from Sagara town. Guides are available at Muppane nature camp which is 10 kms away.

Dabbe Falls

Linganamakki Dam:

10kms from Jog falls is the Linganamakki dam. One can view the dam from a distance.

Linganamakki Dam

Travelling to Jog Falls:

The nearest airport is at Mangalore 219 kms away.

The nearest Railway station is Talaguppa 20 kms away.

Driving from Bangalore, it is 411 kms away.

Sagara and Shimoga are the nearest towns with plenty of hotels. But the best places to stay are The Mayura Gersoppa hotel run by Karnataka Tourism (bang opposite the falls with views from the rooms ) and Sharavati Adventure camp run by Jungle Lodges and resorts.

Sharavati Adventure camp

This is by far the best accomodation near Jog falls. As the name suggests, it has various adventure activities like hiking, trekking, bird watching. Besides, the views from here are beautiful with the backwaters of the Talakalale dam .Water sports activities are also available.

The Sharavati Adventure Camp

Well, that brings us to the end of this episode.

Next week, we meet up with some gentle giants; the elephants. Till then, let me say goodbye but not before reminding you to subscribe, comment or give your feedbacks.

The Hanging Pillar of Lepakshi

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Great Temples of India

Lepakshi has been in the news recently , and so ; why not resume the India series with Lepakshi ? With the Ayodhya temple inauguration and the Prime Minister’s visit , Lepakshi has indeed come into focus . Till then , many of you may not have heard of this temple in the sleepy town of Lepakshi in the state of Telengana in India . A 16th century temple enriched with art and architecture of the Vijayanagar Empire has this as yet unexplained phenomenon of the hanging pillar.

The temple itself is dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra (fiery avatar of Lord Shiva) and has shrines dedicated to various Hindu Gods like Vishnu, Devi, Ganesha and Hanuman. Apart from religious attributes, the Lepakshi temple complex is considered an excellent art monument. This is because, most of the walls and ceilings at the temple are covered not only with sculptures, but murals depicting various scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata.

Since the most intriguing and popular feature is it’s hanging pillar, let us first talk about that…

The hanging pillar

The hanging pillar is one of the pillars of the inner hall of the temple which does not rest on the floor. A clear gap is seen between the floor and the pillar and often people pass a cloth below the pillar to try it out.

The actual reason for this is still unclear and many theories have been put forward. They vary from anti gravity techniques known to the ancestors ,to magnetic causes, to the presence of some rod inside holding it up to the ceiling , to divine intervention ,to the balance of the artwork on the pillar.

The Hanging pillar

Trying to pass a cloth below the pillar

An English engineer is supposed to have tried moving this pillar when the other pillars started shaking and he had to abandon his efforts.

Shifting focus to the main temple….

Legend of Lepakshi Temple

Most Hindu temples are associated with legends and Lepakshi has been associated with the epic of Ramayana. When Ravana, the demon king abducted Sita and was on his way to Lanka with her, Jatayu, the eagle tried to stop him. Ravana attacked Jatayu and the injured Jatayu fell down . When Rama came along and saw the wounded Jatayu, he uttered the words”Le Pakshi” which translates to “rise up bird” and helped him achieve salvation . The word Lepakshi stuck to the place and today we have a huge statue of Jatayu on a rock here.

The temple dates back to 1583 during the reign of the Vijayanagar Empire. Two brothers, Viranna and Virupanna are believed to have built this temple in typical Vijayanagar architectural style. A large number of frescos adorn the ceilings of this temple; some of it faded and peeled off. This temple is designated a monument of national importance by the ASI (Archaeological survey of India) and is on the tentative UNESCO World Heriage Sites list.

Visiting Lepakshi

A 120 km drive from Bangalore on NH 44 and a left turn and then15 km on highway 544E takes one to this temple.

As one reaches the junction to turn off the highway there is a decorative arch with jatayu on the top and a small Nandi in front.

The Jatayu arch at the entrance to Lepakshi town

At Lepakshi, the first structure that one encounters, is a giant Nandi Statue. This is actually called the Basavanna temple.

Nandi (Bull)

The Nandi (Bull) is a monolithic granite bull in sitting posture, 10 mts in length and 6 mts in height . Considered the largest Nandi in India, it is depicted with short horns and decorative bells and ornaments around the neck. A lily pond adds to the beauty of this small temple .

Shiva temples usually have a Nandi statue looking at the sanctum and this Nandi looks at the giant Nagalinga statue located inside the main temple. This Nandi however has its head aloft at a slight angle which makes it unlike most Nandis where a submissive posture is the rule.

The Giant Nandi

The front view and the lily pond in the complex

A short walk down the road takes one to the main Lepakshi Temple.

The entire temple is built on top of a tortoise (kurma) shaped hill(saila) or Kurmasaila and has towering walls around. A giant banyan tree adorns the entrance and a board explaining the origin of the temple gives one a little perspective of the temple.

The board explaining the history and the outer walls

The main temple is laid out in three parts : the Natya Mantapa ,the Artha Mantapa and the sanctum or Anthrala.

The Natya Mantapa

Located inside the outer fortress wall, this hall has multiple pillars with sculptures of gods, goddesses, horses, lions, musicians and dancers.

The ornate Natya Mantapa

Pillars with beautiful sculptures

Two giant monolithic sculptures greet us inside the temple.

One is a monolithic Ganesha with a protective canopy with pillars and the other is the Nagashivalinga.

The Giant Ganesha

The shivalinga is made of a huge rock while the seven headed serpent or Naga is monolithic and appears to be protecting the linga.

Nagashivalinga (7 hooded serpent sheltering the Shivalinga)

Sita’s footprint

As one circumambulates along the outer walls, one comes across a giant footprint believed to be that of Sita.

Another image that strikes us are two red marks on the wall. Legend has it that Virupanna who built the temple used funds from the treasury without the approval of the king. He was ashamed to face the king and so he gorged out his own eyes and threw it which hit the wall. This spot has two red marks attributed to this incident.

Sita’s footprint and Virupanna’s eyes.

This then brings us to the unfinished Kalyana Mantapa.

After Virupanna punished himself , no further construction was undertaken ; leaving an incomplete Kalyana Mantap. However, the sculptures on the pillars of the Kalyana Mantap are beautiful and exude the art of the Vijayanagar era.

The unfinished Kalyana Mantap

The exquisite art work on the pillars of Kalyana Mantap

The Artha Mantapa

The innermost segment of the temple leading to the main sanctum is the Artha Mantap . The hall itself has multiple pillars decorated with sculptures and the ceiling has murals of various sizes but many of which have faded or have been damaged. The columns are located on an elevated plinth and have eaves overhanging in a curved fashion.

One of the frescos on the ceiling of the Artha Mantapa is supposed to be the largest one in Asia. The paintings depict the costumes of that period but due to age related fading, many of the features are not very clear.

Some pictures…

Sculptures on the pillars of the Artha Mantapa

The frescoes

The damaged ceiling and frescoes

The Garbha griha

The Artha Mantapa leads to the sanctum sanctorum or garbha griha where the shrine of Veerabhadra swamy is located. A small cave chamber where saint Agasthya lived when he installed the linga is also seen. The ceiling at the sanctum has the paintings of Virupanna and Virupaksha who constructed the temple.

A shrine dedicated to Durga, the goddess is located just outside the main shrine and has a huge mirror in front so that, one can see the reflection from far.

The side view of the main entrance and the cave chamber

The Giant Jatayu

As explained in the legend, Jatayu is intricately connected with Lepakshi . No wonder then that a huge Jatayu image is constructed on a rocky hillock close to the temple. It is called the Jatayu theme park. The giant Jatayu seems to be overlooking the whole town.

To reach the Jatayu, one has to climb up some steps on a rocky hillock.

Some pictures…

Jatayu park and the view of Lepakshi Temple from there

The giant eagle Jatayu

It was noon by the time we finished walking around the temple and the Jatayu park and we returned to the comfort of our hotel room .

Well, I hope I have kindled your desire to visit this temple and admire its art and architecture.

See you next week from an amazing waterfall of south India…till then,

do give me your feedback and comments….

Pallava glory…Mamallapuram

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Great Temples of India

After seeing the grandeur of the Cholas at Thanjavur and Pandyas at Madurai, let us now shift focus to the Pallavas. Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) near Chennai in Tamil Nadu has a complex of temples and monuments built by the Pallava King Narasimhavarman II. The complex has cave temples and monolithic chariots or Rathas and a Shore Temple built with granite blocks; all built in the 7th and 8th centuries. The complex has more than 40 ancient monuments and temples including the largest open air bas relief in the world.

Mamalla in Tamil means great wrestler and refers to the King Narasimhavarman I. This explains the name Mamallapuram.

It is now believed that this complex is part of a group of submerged temples along the coastline. The tsunami of 2004 that struck the Bay of Bengal coast exposed another granite temple in ruins and large structures on the sea bed about a kilometer offshore. This has also led to the inference that this temple was part of the Seven Pagodas described by early European travelers. The tsunami however did not do much damage to the shore temple itself.

History

What we know today as Mamallapuram was an ancient port probably referred to as Sopatma. It was a very active trading port and that is what brought the western traders here and the shape of these temples led them to be referred to as the Seven Pagodas. Various references to the area by western traders have been recorded from the 13th century onwards. The area came more into focus in the 19th and 20th centuries. It was after Independence that the preservation and restoration of many of these structures was undertaken. In 1984, the site was declared a UNESCO World heritage site. The monuments here have been broadly classified as Chariot shaped temples or Rathas, Mandapas or cave temples, rock reliefs, Structural temples like the Shore temple and excavations.

They are all under the ASI (Archeological survey of India) and are UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Architecture

Pancha Ratha Complex (Five Chariots)

These are monolithic rock cut temples in the shape of chariots or Rathas; initially attributed to Narasimhavarman I, and subsequently to Narasimhavarman II ; after the discovery of some inscriptions .

Named after the five Pandavas and Draupadi; they date back to the 7th and 8th centuries. Though they are grouped together by these popular names, they are neither true chariots nor are they dedicated to the Pandavas. They are temples dedicated to Shaivism, Vaishnavism and Shaktism; the three main stream Hindu cults.

The first one is named after Draupadi and has a roof like a thatched hut. The sanctum has the sculpture of Durga .The second one called Arjuna’s chariot is shaped like a Buddhist vihara . The sanctum here is empty but the walls have sculptures of Shiva and Vishnu. A large monolithic lion stands in front of this. The Bhima Ratha is the largest structure here. Large sculptures of lion, elephant and bull also adorn the complex.

These were never consecrated as temples as they were not completed.

The Pancha Rathas and monolithic lion

The Cave Temples or Mantapas

Mantapas are traditionally pillared halls or pavilions for people to gather socially or for ceremonies.

The cave temples at Mamallapuram were not completed and in depth analysis gives us an idea of how they were cut into the rock faces to create these pavilions and halls.

One of the main temples here is the Varaha Vishnu temple where Lord Vishnu is depicted in Varahavatara (like a boar) saving Bhumi(earth) from under the ocean.

Varaha Vishnu saving Bhumi devi

Gaja Lakshmi is another important depiction here where two elephants (Gaja) are seen sprinkling water on Goddess Durga.

Gajalakshmi with elephants

Mahishasuramardini cave has depictions of Goddess Durga destroying the demons.

The cave and the sculpture

Krishna Mantapa is another interesting cave temple here. Village life in Vrindavan is depicted here. Krishna holds the mountain Govardhana in his hand and protects the people. Krishna playing the flute, a cowherd milking the cow and such other legends are depicted here.

Krishna holding the mountain up and a cowherd milking the cow

There are many more such depictions here which need to be seen and enjoyed. One can enjoy it more if one is well versed in Hindu traditions and epics.

Arjuna’s Penance and Descent of the Ganga

This is the largest bas relief in the world measuring 29 mt X 13 mt and is a relief carved on two open air rock faces. The legendary Arjuna standing in penance and the descent of the river Ganges is depicted here. During special occasions, the river Ganges was shown flowing down from Shiva’s hair. This was achieved with a water tank on top of the relief. There are more than hundred figurines in this relief and many of them are life size.

Arjuna’s Penance ..the largest open air bas relief in the world

More details of the bas relief

The Shore Temple

This complex is close to the seashore and hence called Shore Temple.

There are three temples in the main Shore temple complex built on a 15 mt platform. Two of these are Shiva shrines where Shiva and Parvati along with their sons Vinayaka and Kartikeya are honored . The main temple has a pyramidal tower 18 mt high and faces the east so that the sun rays fall on the Shiva linga here. A Vishnu shrine lies in between the two Shiva shrines. This is again an example of both Shaivism and Vaishnavism coming together.

The temple and other monuments in the complex are excellent examples of Dravidian architecture. The roaring lions, a typical Pallava icon is seen on the pillars of this temple. Some of the sculptures have been damaged and some are missing. The compound wall of the temple is sculpted with Nandi (bull) and Varahas (boars).

The Shore Temple

Sculptures around the shore temple

Typical Pallava icon…the roaring lion pillars

Other rock monuments

Krishna’s Butterball

A gigantic rock seems to be resting precariously on a sloping rockface and is popularly called butter ball.

The precariously placed rock!!!

Butter Well

This is a deep excavation into the rocky surface which looks like a well.

The excavated well!!

Well, I have tried to put together the salient parts of the Mamallapuram complex. I hope it has given you a perspective of the architectural proficiency of the Pallava dynasty.

With this, the series on Great Temples of India will stop for some time. Continuous dose of art and architecture can get heady. So I move on to some natural wonders with my series on Alaskan Adventures.

Do give me your feedback and comments.

Goddess of Kodachadri

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Great Temples of India

The strange legend of Swayambu Jyothirlinga has always intrigued me. I am talking about Mookambika Temple at Kollur in Karnataka. We have been regularly visiting this temple since many years. In fact, at one point of time, it was an annual “must-do” pilgrimage. I am an ardent devotee of Devi and firmly believe that SHE has been guiding me through the ups and downs of life.

This temple in Karnataka, located 135 kms from Mangalore and 80 kms from Udupi in the Kodachadri Valley of the Western Ghats was a charming and serene retreat once upon a time. The Sowparnika river flowing beside temple, was an added attraction .But sadly, over the years, like in most other places, commercialisation has spoilt the serene charm that attracted me once upon a time…

The Legend :

The legend of the Goddess is intimately connected to the Kodachadri hills near Kollur. There was once a demon here called Kaumasura who wanted to become invincible and towards this end, he prayed ardently to Lord Shiva. The Goddess in all her wisdom was aware of the evil designs of the demon and she made him dumb (mooka). Due to this, the demon was unable to ask Shiva for his wish to be fulfilled. This infuriated him and he harassed a sage by name Kola Maharishi who also used to pray to Lord Shiva. The Maharishi prayed to the Goddess for help and she vanquished the demon. Lord Shiva also appeared in front of the Maharishi who then requested that Lord Shiva and Devi should be there forever. The Maharishi’s wish was granted and that is how the Swayambu Jyothirlinga came to be. Significantly, this linga has a golden line in the middle. The right half stands for the conscious principle of Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. The left half represents creativity in the form of Lakshmi, Saraswati and Parvati. This linga is now worshipped as Moola Devi.

Another legend says that the Goddess appeared before Adi Sankara during his penance at Kodachadri. When he requested HER to come down to bless the common people, she agreed on one condition. SHE would follow Adi Sankara but at no time should he look back to check on HER. After some time, the sound of the Devi’s anklets were inaudible and Sankara reflexly looked back. The agreement was broken and Devi stopped there. That is the spot where the temple is located today at Kollur.

Though I used to wonder how the swayambu linga appeared, I learnt about this legend much later. Scientifically and objectively speaking, this is difficult to accept. And there in lies my intrigue!!

Adi Sankara

This temple is also linked to Adi Sankara. Even today there is a small shrine inside the temple called Sankara Peeta. It is believed that Sankaracharya meditated here and had a vision of Devi Mookambika . The four armed idol of Goddess Mookambika was installed by Adi Shankaracharya.

The Temple

The sanctum and the entrance to this temple are believed to be over 1200 years old. The parikrama and various other portions have been added subsequently. The temple was patronised by the several Hindu kings particularly the Bednore Rajas and many of the jewels adorning the Goddess were presented by them and the Vijayanagara kings. Photography is not allowed inside the temple and so, the images of various Gods sculpted on the pillars of the mantapa in front of the shrine remain just descriptions. Besides the main sanctum housing both the swayambhu lingam and the idol of the Goddess, shrines of Balamuri Ganapati, Veerabhadra swamy and the Sankara Peeta lie along the inner parikrama (circumambulatory path)

A panoramic view of the temple complex from an adjoining building

The entrance to the main shrine

A beautiful Deepa Sthambha ( lamp tower) adorns the front of the parikrama as you enter the temple complex. All the lamps on this tower are lit in the evening giving a very divine feel.

The lit Deepa Sthambha

The Saraswati Mantapa

As we enter the main temple, there is a small shrine to our left which is in the form of a stage. This is the Saraswati mantapa. Goddess Saraswati is the God of learning and also of the various arts like dance and music. Many artists give performances here as an offering to Goddess Saraswati. The first stage performances of students of dance are also conducted here. During the festival of Navratri; Vidyarambham (children are initiated into learning by holding their hands and making them write on rice) is performed here.

Vidyarambham

The Shiveli (Ceremonial Procession)

A smaller image of Goddess is taken in a ceremonial procession daily around the outer parikrama. Sometimes she is carried by one of the priests , at times in a palanquin and on special occasions on a chariot. These are all ceremonial rituals followed here.

The ceremonial procession

The Sowparnika River

This serene river that flows in front of the temple is as much a part of the temple as is the main shrine. Flowing down from the verdant forests of the Kodachadri hills, in the Western Ghats , it’s waters are enriched with the medicinal properties of the various plants that lie along it’s banks and a bath in this holy river is believed to relieve one of many diseases.

Sadly, the river today is polluted at various places and is a far cry from what she was a few decades ago!!

Sowparnika river

Olden times

During the early days of my visit to this temple, there were no hotels and lodges at Kollur like it is today. The priests of the temple would offer rooms in their house for us to stay and even the food was provided by them. Many of the conveniences we have today was a far cry then. But the serenity and peace used to fill us with devotion . Today, lot of hotels and commercial establishments have sprung up adding to the conveniences but the place has lost its old world charm!

The trek to Kodachadri

A visit to Mookambika temple is considered incomplete without a visit to Kodachadri.

As I said in my opening remarks, this temple and it’s legends have intrigued me for some reason. Even after several visits to the temple over the years, I had not been able to visit Kodachadri. Finally, we undertook this trek in 2018.

A jeep ride from the temple precincts takes one to the sarvagnya peetam (a small shrine) on the Kodachadri hill. That ride was one of its kind. A short distance on a normal tarred road and the driver took a turn on to a stone ridden path. There was no road and we were literally riding on some rocks and at places, the condition of the track had us call out to the Goddess from the bottom of our hearts. After this arduous drive of about an hour and a half, we reached the starting point of the trek.

One of the better parts of the road on the jeep ride

The trek itself was not as arduous as the ride. It was a mud road and we had to keep clear of stones and poky twigs from the bushes at places. After about an hour of this walk, the views of the valley below made us forget the difficulties of the trek.

Views of the valley from the Kodachadri hills

The trekkers and the destination at a distance on the hillock

Finally we could see the sarvagnya peetam and that instilled some more enthusiasm in us.

Sarvagnya peetam

Sarvagnya peetam

A small temple at the peak in Kodachadri where Adi Sankara meditated is called the Sarvagnya peetam. It was while meditating here that the Goddess appeared in front of Adi Sankara and they started their journey to the valley from here. Thus this temple has a special significance .

We offered prayers there and meditated for some time and started our return trek . Coming down can be more tricky at places as we tend to slip on the slopes. However, we managed to reach back and took the jeep back to Kollur.

After a couple of days of stay at Kollur we returned back feeling rejuvenated after this spiritual experience.

I am an ardent devotee of Devi but I must admit that all that is said in the legends is difficult to accept entirely. But faith and religion are always like that and so, I leave it to you to follow your own minds….

After two episodes dedicated to Devi, coinciding with the Navratri festival, we move on next week to the glory of the Pallava dynasty…

Meanwhile, do continue your feedback and comments on my blog….

Meenakshi Temple ; Abode of the Princess

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Great Temples of India

Meenakshi Amman as SHE is popularly known , was a princess who emerged out of the sacred fire, as a young child during the prayers by her parents to beget a child . SHE not only ruled over her father’s kingdom subsequently, but also captured several territories and finally met Lord Shiva at Kailash. So goes the legend of the Goddess, who presides over the temple city of Madurai in Tamil Nadu in south India. The association of Lord Vishnu in several legends associated with this Shaivite temple is one of its specialties. Lord Vishnu is considered to be the brother of Goddess Meenakshi.

History

The temple was built by Kulashekara Pandyan, a Pandya king during the 1st century and is believed to have been the central structure of the city ; which it continues to be even today. Plundered and looted by invaders like Malik Kafur in the 14th century, it was reduced to ruins and subsequently rebuilt by the Nayakars in the 16th and 17th centuries. The temple as we know it today is mainly the result of these revival efforts.

Structure

The temple occupies a large rectangular area of around 14 acres in central Madurai and is enclosed within huge walls . The entire structure is built like a mandala following the principles of loci and symmetry. Roads in the city radiate from the temple complex and ring roads form concentric circles around .

The presiding deities of the temple are Goddess Meenakshi ( Parvati) and Lord Sundareswarar (Lord Shiva) whose shrines lie parallelly in the innermost courtyard. Shrines to several Hindu Gods are also present .

The Gopurams

The most striking feature of the temple ; like most temples in south India ; are its towering majestic gopurams. A total of 14 gopurams decorate this complex with the tallest one rising to a height of 170 feet. This gopuram is curvilinear in shape .

The curvilinear Gopuram

Each of these gopurams have elaborate sculptures on them and are brightly coloured in various hues. The images on these gopurams are related to Hindu mythology. The outer gopurams are pyramidal ; serving as landmarks ; while the inner ones are smaller and adorn the gateways of the various shrines.

The pyramidal Gopuram

The multicoloured sculptures

The Shrines

Two east facing shrines house the presiding deities Goddess Meenakshi and Lord Sundareswarar. Goddess Meenakshi is depicted as a green stone image with a lotus in her hand on which sits a parrot. A metal copy of this image is kept outside the sanctum and is used for festive processions. The shrine of Lord Sundarewarar has a stone linga guarded by a hooded cobra. A metallic representation of the Lord in the form of feet embossed on a stool is kept near the sanctum .This is ceremoniously carried to the shrine of the Goddess every evening, so that both of them can symbolically spend the night together. In the morning the symbolic stool is brought back to HIS sanctum.

Several shrines dedicated to Ganesha, Murugan, Saraswati, Mahalakshmi and other Hindu Gods are located elsewhere in the complex.

The Porthamarai Kulam (Pond with golden lotus)

A large pond with a golden lotus in the center is used for pilgrims to bathe. The walls of the tank are painted in red stripes typically seen on temple walls of south India.

The Golden Lotus Pond

The Golden Lotus

Halls

Though there are multiple halls or Mantapams, the Thousand Pillar hall is the most famous. It contains 985 pillars , each of which has a sculpture on them.

The Thousand pillar hall

The elaborate sculptures on the pillars

The artistic ceiling

Just outside this is are the Musical pillars where each pillar produces a different note when struck.

The threshold of the temple has an interesting sculpture which caught my attention. Here it is…

The divine marriage depicted in sculpture…

Cultural Significance.

The presiding deities being Lord Sundareswarar and Goddess Meenakshi, it is a Shaivite shrine. But Lord Vishnu is considered her brother and this temple brings both these Hindu sects together. In addition; since Goddess Meenakshi represents Shakti or power, this temple thus puts together the three Hindu sects of Shaivism, Vaishnavism and Shaktism.

Festivals

The temple hosts multiple festivals throughout the year , but the most popular one is the “Meenakshi Thirukalyanam”, a festival in the month Chithirai (April) symbolising the marriage of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar. This festival lasts for 12 days and there is a procession where the divine couple are taken around in a chariot pulled by devotees. Vishnu symbolically gives his sister in marriage.

The decorated chariot

Navaratri festival is another important festival celebrated here with the temple complex illuminated with hundreds of lights and a large Golu (doll arrangement) in the hall.

It has been my attempt to bring out the salient features of this great temple. It can be described much more; but that may get into too much detail. Hence, I end with the statement…

The Divine can never be totally described …it has to be experienced.

Till I am back with some more interesting destinations, do give your feedback and comments…

Chola Splendour ; Brihadishvara Temple

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Great Temples of India

An outstanding example of Chola architecture, this temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is located in Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu. It is one of the biggest Hindu temples in India and is colloquially called Thanjai Periya Kovil (Thanjavur Big Temple). It was called “Dakshina Meru” comparing with Uttara Meru or Mt Kailas; the abode of Lord Shiva.

Built by the Chola Emperor Rajaraja I between 1003 and 1010 it is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.

Looking back at history

Emperor Rajaraja I called the temple “Rajarajesvaram” meaning “temple of the God of Rajaraja”. Brihadishvara is a Sanskrit word meaning “Big Lord Siva”

The Chalukya and Pallava temple styles flourished from the fifth century onwards as evidenced by the Badami and Mamallapuram temples and similar monuments. The Chola dynasty flourished between 850 and 1280. It was during this period and specifically during the rule of Rajaraja I that this temple was built. It was specifically during this time that the huge ornate gopurams started adorning the temples.

The main temple with its gopurams are from the eleventh century while various additions and renovations took place subsequently . There were damages to the temple in various wars between the Muslim Sultans of Madurai and the Hindu rulers of Thanjavur. These were repaired and shrines of Murugan, Parvati, Nandi and Dakshinamurthy were added. The Thanjavur Maratha rulers took over and maintained the temple subsequently.

Structure

There are several sacred texts giving mythical accounts of the actual building of this temple. The Brihadeeswara Mahatmyam widely attributed to sage Veda Vyasa gives an account of 16 Chola rulers and the temples built by them.

The temple is built on a raised platform and is rectangular in shape with five distinct sections. The Sanctum with the main gopuram or tower called Vimana, the Nandi Mantapam, the Mukhamantapam and the Mahamantapam.

A large pillared and covered verandah surrounds this complex with a circumambulation path in between. This verandah is surrounded by two fortified walls outside. The outer one being higher and built by the French who used the temple as an arsenal.

Come along with me…let us enter the temple

The Maratha Gate

The first gate as we enter the temple complex, built during the Maratha reign and served as a wall of defence. A gopuram with delicate carvings adorns this gate.

The Maratha Gate

The Keralantaka Gate

Built to commemorate the victory of Rajaraja Chola I ,over the Cheras, this gate is highly decorated with carvings of Gods and Goddesses and is an ideal example of Chola architecture.

Keralantaka Gate

Under the second gate …

Rajaraja Gate

This is the third and final gate and is most ornate of all and marks the entrance to the innermost part of the temple complex. There are carvings at different levels on this gate and there are statues of two doorkeepers on either side of the entrance. Here too, there are carvings depicting various situations described in holy texts.

As you stand here, the Nandi is clearly visible inside the complex.

Rajarajan Gate ( note the two dwarapalakas)

Once you cross these three ornate gates with gopurams, you enter a courtyard with a huge Nandi ( Sacred Bull) and the Nandi Mantapam.

Nandi Mantapam is a raised platform with beautiful paintings on the ceiling and exquisitely carved pillars. A monolithic black Nandi weighing about 20 tons sits in the Nandi Mantapam looking towards the main deity. This Nandi is 16 ft long and 13 ft high.

The monolithic Nandi

The beautiful paintings on the ceiling of Nandi Mantapam

The main temple with gopuram or Vimana

Photography is not allowed in the main temple….

Nandi looks at the main deity inside the Sanctum, symbolic of Nandi guarding the temple.

The main deity is a huge Shiva Linga , 3.7 meters tall . This Linga is believed to house the powers of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The Vimana or the main Gopuram (tower) is just above the sanctum. The space around the Linga and within the towering Vimana is believed to be permeated with the presence of Lord Shiva in subtlest form of space.

Only priests are allowed inside the main sanctum. The walls of the sanctum have beautiful paintings of the Chola period including that of Emperor Rajarajan I.

The exit from the main temple is through the side…

Exit from the main temple

From the pictures above, a fair idea of the beautiful carvings on the temple exteriors would have been obvious.

Most of the carvings and art work relate to various Hindu mythological characters and stories and feature various Gods and Goddesses.

Few more pictures to highlight the great art work on these walls…

The exquisite art work in stone….

The main Gopuram or Vimana is more than 200 ft high and built as 16 levels ; 13 of them tapering upwards. A huge dome or Kumbam measuring around 25 sq ft. sits on top of the tower and and weighs 80 tons. This Kumbam is also monolithic and how it was placed on top is still unclear.

The Vimana

The ornate Kumbam

The Mahamantapam and Mukhamantapam have shrines of eight deities symbolically guarding the eight directions. The walls of the mantapas have mural paintings and carvings mainly relating to Lord Shiva.

Murals on the walls

Stone Carvings

Music and Dance

From the time of the Cholas, the temple and its environs have been the arena of music and dance. Various inscriptions on the walls point to this. Elaborate rituals connected to dance and music have been described. Several endowments were bestowed on artists and many literary and musical compositions praising the deity were written here. The Chola rulers and the temple have long been credited with encouraging the growth of the art forms.

Mysterious facts about this masterpiece in stone

The whole temple is made of granite and the closest granite quarry was 50 kms away and so how all this stone was transported during those days is a mystery.

The design of the Vimana is such that it gives an illusion that it does not cast any shadow.

There were many underground passages through which the royalty moved around but now all those have been sealed.

The Nandi in front is monolithic.

Many inscriptions are found on the walls relating to details of administration of the temple.

Inscriptions

Well, one can never finish talking about such a masterpiece; but I leave it at that.

Hope you all enjoyed this visit to one of the greatest temples in India. See you next week with yet another such marvel. Till then, keep your comments flowing in.