Portage glacier is located just 75 kms from downtown Anchorage in Alaska and has seen much change over the years. A visit to Portage Glacier on a day tour from Anchorage was the agenda for the day…
Our Trip
Starting off with a small group of people, one beautiful morning in early September from Anchorage with our guide Jamie , we had some awesome experiences.
Leaving Anchorage city behind, we were soon on the Seward Highway. This highway runs parallel to the rail tracks over a long distance . I am mentioning this here as there is a lot of overlap of pictures and information between this trip and a beautiful ride on the Coastal Classic train from Anchorage to Seward.
Turnagain Arm
This is one place we are going to talk about off and on. It is a waterway that is an inland extension of the Gulf of Alaska . This is peculiar in that the variation in tide levels is highest here; around 40 ft.
This Seward highway runs along the banks of the Turnagain Arm for a considerable distance.
The Turnagain Arm ( rail tracks can be seen running along its banks)
As we travel on the highway, we have the Chugach Mountains on the left and the Kenai mountains on the right with the Turnagain Arm in between. Portage Valley is the place where these two mountain ranges meet and the Portage glacier is located in this Valley. More on this as we reach Portage Valley.
Beluga Point
A view point along the Turnagain Arm, it is a rocky projection into the sea. It is a popular whale watching destination as the Beluga Whales enter the area to feed on the Pacific salmon. These Whales are relatively smaller than the other whales and have a white head which is often seen in the water looking like a white cap moving in the water. We did wait here on two occasions but did not see them. We did see the tide moving into the inlet in the evening.
At Beluga point
The dangerous mud flats
Another peculiar sight along the Turnagain arm are the Mud flats. These are glacial silt which has accumulated over the years and are very sticky and messy like quicksand. If one steps on them, the feet sink into it and one gets stuck in it. Our guide told us that in spite of warning signs put up, some over enthusiastic person often gets stuck and they have to be rescued.
Bird Point
This is another interesting halt along the highway where there is a small park and a wooden walkway which takes you to great views of the ocean and the mountains,
Besides this the area is also a lookout point for mountain goats and black bears along the mountain slopes. We did spot a couple of mountain goats!
The Bird point lookout and the view of the Kenai mountains with snow
Driving along, we were approaching the area where the Chugach and Kenai ranges meet. That formed a valley and it was there that our destination; Portage glacier was.
The Portage Glacier has seen much change over the years ….read on….
A brief history
In the Ice Age (1300 to 1850 A.D), most glaciers in the world were advancing. Portage glacier is no exception. During the period 1500 to 1800 A.D. Portage was adding more ice to its mass than it was retreating. It covered the entire Portage valley; a distance of 23 kms.
This glacier got its name because it was used as “portage” between Prince William Sound and the Turnagain arm.Till 1914, the present day Portage lake was non existent and people could trek the glacier across Portage Pass to the town of Whittier. It was only in the 1900s that glacier retreat became a reality.
Today, we have a lake there; Portage Lake ; over 600 ft deep and the glacier terminal is not visible directly. It lies behind the mountains on the left and we need to cruise the lake to see it!!!
Portage was very badly affected by the great Alaskan earthquake of 1964 which led to the flooding of the town of Portage which was then vacated. Thousands of trees were submerged in water and what we see today are tree stumps preserved by the salt water. More on this as we tour the place…
Continuing our trip
We turned off the main highway to the glacier. The scenery was even more beautiful with waterfalls in between the cliffs and glimpses of the glacier in between the trees and rocks.
Glaciers and waterfalls all along the way
Finally, we arrived at the parking area with the beautiful Portage lake and its surroundings. Enjoying the scenery and taking some pictures, we boarded our cruise boat “Ptarmigan” that was waiting for us. After the customary safety instructions, we set off on Portage lake to see the glacier.
The Portage lake
The Ptarmigan and a waterfall on the cruise
Multiple waterfalls draining into the Portage lake
Cruising along the Portage lake, gradually the Portage glacier came into view. There were small icebergs floating around as we reached the glacier. Some pictures…
Small icebergs floating around the lake close to the glacier
Portage Glacier
Portage glacier, it’s reflection and the little icebergs form an amazing sight!
The cruise boat halted close to the glacier for some time. We did not see any calving at that time but the floating icebergs were evidence of recent calving.
The cruise boat had an exhibit that displayed the location of the terminal part of the glacier at various times in history. That was truly an eyeopener on how much this glacier had receded.
A diagrammatic representation of recession of Portage glacier
Returning back to the starting point, we disembarked from the boat and headed for lunch to the only available restaurant in that remote location.
The only restaurant
After lunch, our guide took us to another beautiful view point; the reflection lake. Here there is a lake which is surrounded by lush green forests and from one corner is visible the Explorer glacier. This glacier casts a reflection on the lake making it an adorable location. A trail starts from here and goes back to Portage lake.
Some pictures..
The beautiful Reflection lake
At reflection lake with the glacier behind and the trail sign board
The Explorer glacier casting its reflection on the lake below….
After this wonderful view, we were on our way back to Anchorage . We were again on the Seward Highway and tried to look for the Belugas but they evaded us…
On the return journey we halted at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center that lies close to the highway. This center is unique in many ways and is a shelter and refuge for many of the animals. I have to go into that in more detail to do justice to it. So that will form part of the next episode that features Alaskan Wildlife.
See you next week with unique Alaskan Wildlife that will surely enthrall you….
Till then, do give your comments and feedback.
Travel-along.in 