Tag: Bunkers

The Submarine Museum

by Leela Gopinath, posted in AndhraPradesh, India

All of you would have visited museums some time or the other. But have you visited a museum in a submarine? Well ,may be few of you have….

As was mentioned in the last episode, Visakhapatnam is the headquarters of the Eastern Naval command of the Indian Navy. So the Navy has several establishments here and one of them is the submarine museum.

Let me take you today to this novel museum which is inside an actual submarine!

This museum , located at Visakhapatnam is a decommissioned submarine INS Kursura which was in active service for 31 years. After decommission, it was dedicated to the nation and is preserved as a museum for the public.

A brief history of INS Kursura

INS Kursura was India’s fourth submarine built in the Soviet Union and commissioned in 1969. She was attached to the Western Naval Command and operated in the Arabian Sea during the Indo-Pak war of 1971. After participating in several anti submarine warfare exercises and various other operations, she was decommissioned in 2001.

Once decommissioned, the entire submarine with it’s weapon package was hauled up from the sea to a concrete platform at R.K Beach at Visakhapatnam and established as the first submarine Museum in South Asia in 2002. This was a joint operation of the Eastern Naval command and the Naval Ship Design and Research Centre. It is recognized as a War Memorial.

The Museum

The submarine is placed close to the beach and one can see it from the road as one drives past. Surrounded by well manicured lawns, it is a sight to behold.

The submarine museum as seen from the road

The Submarine

As one steps foot on the submarine, a sense of pride and patriotism flows in naturally to us. We can climb up a fleet of stairs to enter the museum.

The stairway to the submarine museum

Once inside, we can see a number of artifacts, pictures and articles used during wars. We can also see gadgets and weapons that are on display. This gives an idea of the evolution of submarines, showcases the might of the submarine arm of the Navy, and reveals the hardship and toils of life on a submarine. The interior has been suitably modified for this but at the same time retaining it’s original form.

It gives you the feeling of actually being inside a submarine. Once we stay inside for some time, a feeling of claustrophobia engulfs us. It is then that we realize how difficult it is to actually live inside a submarine for days together. That is what our Naval personnel do in times of war, and they have to be continuously on high alert too!!

Have a look at some of the pictures and that may perhaps throw light on their difficult lives….

A room with the model of an officer and the small place they have to operate from

The pantry and bunker beds for sleeping. ( the low roof makes the place claustrophobic)

The narrow passages with equipments and low head clearance forcing us to bend

Various levels inside the submarine

These pictures would have given you a fair idea of the difficulties when the personnel live inside for months together

Immense regard and respect for our armed forces just comes in automatically when we see all this.

There are a couple of Naval personnel there who explain the details to us also. Though there are many technical details which we may not understand but the overall experience of actually entering a submarine is something entirely different.

Outside also we can see the parts which are otherwise under water….

The propeller and rudder ( at the back of the submarine)

The front of the submarine with torpedo tubes and the anchor resting on the floor.

Glimpses of life on a submarine: (something I learnt during this visit)

 Submarine personnel undergo rigorous training including damage control, drills and emergencies, battle tactics and escape training through a tower. 

 Space is limited in a submarine and equipments and life saving gadgets get priority over daily comforts.

Sleeping in bunkers to save space is a rule and many times they take turns to use the bunker.

Maintenance of equipment, drills and safety exercises are a daily routine.
The kitchen has limited space and hence no elaborate meals can be expected.   

Around 70 personnel share two toilets at sea. 


 We left the museum with mixed feelings. Patriotism, regard and respect for our armed forces and a thought for the families of these personnel who also sacrifice a lot so that we all can live safely in our homes….JAI HIND…

For completion sake, let me attach a file picture of Kursura at sea…

INS Kursura sails by….

After visiting the submarine museum, we continued on to the other interesting sights in Visakhapatnam. Next week, we visit some of Araku valley and Borra caves. Till then, do comment and give your feedback.

Cu Chi Tunnels

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Vietnam

This is the concluding episode of the series on Vietnam. But, like they say…last but not the least….these tunnels are symbolic of the tenacity and resourcefulness of the Vietnamese people. It is a standing example of how even a small country like Vietnam could stand up to a super power like the USA simply by people power!!!

History of Cu Chi Tunnels

Situated 70 kms from Ho Chi Minh city, this tunnel complex is a hidden maze which provides visitors a peep into Vietnamese history.

How the tunnels were built….

These tunnels were dug by the Communist guerrilla troops known as Viet Cong (VC) soldiers to combat the better equipped American and South Vietnamese soldiers. Thousands of miles of under ground tunnels were dug by these soldiers to house troops, transport supplies, lay booby traps and mount surprise attacks on the US and South Vietnamese troops. Many of these tunnels were dug by hand , a short distance at a time.

The process of digging these tunnels started in 1940s during their independence struggle from the French colonialists. Gradually US increased it’s presence in Vietnam supporting the non communist regime of South Vietnam. The VC soldiers parallelly expanded these tunnels and their use was at it’s peak during the Vietnam War.

Why the tunnels were built in that location….

The soil at this place was very hard and would not collapse , it was almost like concrete. Besides, they wanted to live intermingled with the locals making it difficult to trace them . The tunnel system extended to the Cambodian border and when the US attacked, they would move closer to the Cambodian side where the US could not bomb. Located at a higher level then Saigon river there was no danger of flooding .

The tunnels extend into three levels..

First level was 3mts deep . Bunkers at 1st level were meant for fighting . The Kitchen and hospital were at this level

Second level at a depth of 6 mts was meant for resting.

Third level was 10mts deep and these were used as bomb shelters.

A display at the tunnel complex explaining the various levels of the tunnels

Air holes connecting the various levels were built. There was no electricity. Lamps were used in 1 , 2 levels. But at 3rd level there was no oxygen to burn lamps. Only the VCs knew the entrances to the lower levels and the US soldiers were confused.

Life in the tunnels…

Needless to say, life in the tunnels was very difficult . Local youngsters and VCs lived inside. Families lived outside. More than 12,000 people lived inside the tunnels. Air, food and water were scarce and the tunnels were infested with ants, centipedes, snakes, scorpions and rodents. It was hot and humid inside the tunnels .

Food was cooked in the early mornings because the smoke from the kitchen bunker would mix with the fog and the tunnels could not be detected. During the daytime, the guerrillas rested within the tunnels and came out at night for food, supplies and other essential activities. Sometimes, they were unable to come out for days together.

The tunnel dimensions were also very small and the heavily built US soldiers would not fit in.

From their side, VC soldiers used guerrilla tactics and laid traps of various types to defeat the US .

The different types of traps were….Sticking trap, Clipping armpit trap, window trap, folding chair trap, fish trap, see saw trap and traps hung from trees were also use to trap the enemies.

It is believed that more than 45,000 Vietnamese men and women were killed defending the tunnels over the course of the war.

War Memorial Park

The tunnels are preserved today as part of a War Memorial park and visitors can crawl through some of the safer parts and experience what the VCs underwent at least to some extent. The tunnels have been widened at many places to facilitate tourists from entering but still it is very narrow and one gets claustrophobic inside.

Some pictures from our visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels….

The reception area where arms and ammunition are displayed

The long passage that leads to the actual tunnels

Once we reach the actual tunnel area, it resembles a mini forest with a walkway in between tall trees.

The walkway at the tunnel complex

Our guide explaining the features of various areas in the tunnel complex

One of the first areas we reach is a camouflaged hatch with a cover (more like a man hole) into which one person can just enter and come out vertically. There is no place to turn and the hatch is covered with a lid like a manhole cover and covered with dried leaves of the forest. Unless someone points out the place, we will not know that a hatch exits there. It is so cleverly camouflaged by the fallen leaves!!

The hatch and the lid camouflaged with leaves

After a short walk we reached the fighting bunker where we are allowed to enter and there is an exit after every 20mts to come out. A local guide accompanied us into this bunker.

The entrance to the fighting bunker and the local guide.

After some hesitation, around 7 of us decided to enter the bunker. I was part of this brave group and entered the bunker. A few steps inside and I realised it was not my cup of tea. I hastily retreated and climbed up to safety.

This is me coming out of the bunker after giving up the attempt!!!

Sure enough , the remaining six were out in a few minutes after taking the first 20mts exit. It was too claustrophobic and humid inside. Just imagine what the VCs went through!!!

Walking along , we came across the Kitchen bunker ….

The kitchen bunker and the smoke vents

Our guide gave us a small challenge to identify the air holes….this is how they look….

The VCs were targeted by the US soldiers by pumping water into the tunnels through the air vents and suffocating them.

The air holes looked like some openings in ant hills

As we walked along we came across some models of soldiers and artillery displayed. Some pictures…

Models of Soldiers and a tank on display

Then came the various kinds of traps laid for the enemies….

Most of the traps had metal hooks and spikes which would pierce the body of the enemy when they step on the camouflaged traps. Thus they would trap them and kill them or torture them. The details of these traps are very gory indeed!

Traps of various kinds

Shooting range

As we walked around, we heard the sounds of gun fire. We were told that at the firing range tourists can buy ammunition and try their hands at firing.

The shooting range

I had mixed feelings after this visit. The stories of violence and gore were quite a put off. But on the other side, it was also a tale of resilience and valour.

With mixed feelings we proceeded for lunch and the surprise we got at lunch helped us recover from the sad thoughts after the tunnel visit. We had ordered for rice; sticky rice as they call it and were surprised by this rather unique hollow ball of rice that was served….

The sticky rice ball…

It was quite tasty and once the ball is pierced, it crumbles and resembles a dosa or pancake. We enjoyed this Vietnamese speciality and was ready to bid goodbye to Vietnam.

With goodbyes and promises to keep in touch, we all proceeded to the airport and from there on to our respective destinations.

The next country I am going to take you to is the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan. See you next week at Bhutan. Till then, keep your feedback and comments pouring in.