Seward

This quaint little city by the Resurrection Bay in southern Alaska , acts as the launching pad for many an Alaskan adventure. With a population of less than 3000 people, and an area of just 56 sq kms, it is small and has a real old world charm about it.

Pronounced “Suvard” by the locals, it took us few interactions before we could get it right!! The epic train journey on the Coastal Classic train from Anchorage along some beautiful landscapes brought us to this city.

The Coastal Classic train near Bartlett glacier enroute Seward

The place is so small that as you arrive at the train station, you can see most of harbour and marina which comprise it’s main landscape. The Resurrection Bay and the Kenai mountains provide the picturesque background.

“Harbor 360” , the main hotel here, located along the marina is just a few metres walk from the train station. We were also put up here as all our activities started from here.

Harbor 360 hotel

Being the Southern terminal of the Alaska Railroad and having good road connectivity with Anchorage and other parts of the Kenai Peninsula, Seward is the major cruise ship port that hosts many cruise lines like Norwegian, Royal Caribbean and Celebrity cruises.

Views of the cruise terminal and marina from the hotel

The economy is largely driven by commercial fishing and seasonal tourism. Most tourist activities take place in summer between mid May and mid September. Many of the hotels , restaurants and such facilities function only during these months. Infact when we were there in early September, some of the small establishments and street food outlets had closed down.

Cruise Tourism

Cruise liners of various companies regularly sail from Seward to various destinations in Alaska and finally to Vancouver.

One such cruise ship” Radiance of the Seas “was stuck at Sewad for a couple of days due to some technical issues and the scheduled sailing was cancelled. This threw the plans of many passengers out of gear and we happened to see them during our trip. In fact the ship seen in the picture below is the stuck cruiseliner. This incident was a hot topic there during our visit with many upset passengers having to reschedule their plans.

The cruise company did compensate the affected people but there were lot of logistic issues to be tackled.

The cruise ship that got stuck

Fishing Charters

Alaska has a long coastline and provides endless opportunities for recreational fishing. Special fishing trips and charters are available. Seward is one of the main fishing destinations in Alaska. Many tourists enjoy the fishing and then carry the catch with them home. Many locations offer facilities for storing fish and shipping them to the required destinations .

Many of the fishermen here are of Scandinavian origin and Seward is one of the largest commercial fishery ports of the United States.

The display board at Seward fishing harbour and the storage containers

Local shops sell regular fishing equipment and we find lot of shops selling specialised fishing equipment too.

Specialised fishing equipment for sale

We also noticed a lot of people fishing at the Resurrection bay with camping vans parked at the camp site.

Campground with recreational fishing

Mural Capital of Alaska

Seward is often called the Mural capital of Alaska . Some of the murals we saw…

The Puffin Mural on one wall of Hotel Harbor 360

Some more murals…

Good Friday 1964

March 27th 1964 saw one of the powerful earthquakes ever recorded in the world. With a 9.2 measure on richter scale it left a trail of destruction and Seward too was affected by this earthquake and the tsunami that it triggered.

An earthquake memorial at the main street in Seward….

The Earthquake memorial

Alaska Sealife Centre

A centre that doubles up as an aquarium, a rehabilitation centre for marine mammals and a reasearch facility, it is one of the main attractions here.

1989 saw a major oil spill along the Alaskan coast from the super tanker Exxon Valdez affecting many miles of the Alaskan coast, killing many birds and marine mammals. This incident triggered the thought of the need for a centre for reasearch on the Alaskan sealife. Settlement funds from this oil spill has partly funded this facility and now this centre rehabilitates injured and orphaned marine mammals of Alaska.

Some pictures…

Alaska Sealife Centre

Puffin and Sea Anemone

Aquarium

Otter pool…

As we walked along the Seward marina, we came across the Mariner’s memorial.

Mariner’s Memorial

Being a marine town, Seward has depended on the sea for survival . This has also resulted in tragedies over time. As a tribute to the mariners who were lost at sea, a memorial was built at the breakwater at Resurrection Bay. The focal point here is a light house surrounded by a small landscaped garden. Names of the mariners lost at sea are also displayed inside on plaques.

View of Resurrection Bay from the Mariner’s memorial

We returned to Anchorage from Seward by road, along the Seward Highway, to get a different perspective; since we had done the up journey by train .The drive along the Turnagain Arm and various view points on the seward highway added to the fun. Since those are covered in a different episode, I am not elaborating here.

The bookings for this were all done online from India months before the trip.

The Park Connection Motorcoach that runs between Seward and Anchorage

As I mentioned in the beginning , Seward was a small place but the activities that are organised from here are amazing.

We did the Kenai Fjords Cruise from here. That’s where we went up close to two glaciers and actually saw them calving. That was really a lifetime experience.

The other thing we did at Seward was rafting the Resurrection river. That too was a great experience as the guide took us to real wilderness areas on the raft.

Both these will come up in the next epoisodes. Till then, let me say goodbye. Do give your valuable feedback and comments.

Anchorage

Our first destination at Alaska was Anchorage and true to its name, we used it as a base to go to various destinations. So we were in and out of Anchorage a couple of times, and here, I am putting together our experiences during these visits.

We flew in to Anchorage from Seattle. The views from the flight were amazing to say the least . Let me share some of the pictures to make you get the feel of flying into Anchorage.

Alaska Airlines with the logo of an indigenous Alaskan

Taking off from Seattle, soon we were over British Columbia in Canada, flying over the incredible Rockies…

The Rockies as we flew over them. Note the turquoise lake so typical of the lakes here.

Some more flying and then we were on top of some of the largest sheets of ice….

Some amazing views of Alaskan glaciers ( difficult to separate the ice and clouds!)

Leaving the icesheets behind we were flying on more liveable terrain and the farmlands were visible.

Finally we were cruising over Anchorage and the Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm ( will be referring to this very often in the forthcoming episodes when it will be clear to you) of the Gulf Of Alaska were just below us….

The Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm of the Gulf Of Alaska

Since this was our first destination in Alaska, This episode will have a general roundup of things unique to Alaska too.

When we talk about Alaska, there emerges a mental picture full of mountains, glaciers, unending wilderness, bears, salmon, long daylight hours in summer, short gloomy winter days and the northern lights . Most of this is true but you cannot have all these in one trip. What we see in summer and what we see in winter are totally different and if one wants to cover every bit of Alaska, one has to be there at different times of the year. Many parts of Alaska shut down totally in winter and the local people go elsewhere. These kind of things are unimagineable for people like us who live in the tropics. And it is precisely this that attracts everyone to this natural wonderland…

The weather can be so fickle even in summer that one has to give extra days at each place for sudden and last minute changes in plans.

Tourism is an important industry in Alaska and the emphasis to attract tourists starts right from the airport. Major part of the tourism industry here is linked to Alaskan cruises, and unlike us, most people reach Alaska on a cruise. So there is an entire section in the airport dedicated to the various cruise lines that operate from here. They receive and facilitate the passengers flying in to Anchorage to join cruises elsewhere.

An Alaskan Cruiseliner

Apart from that ,there is a train station of Alaska Railroad at the airport which is at present being used for trains chartered by cruise lines only. Most passengers take the train to Seward or Whittier and board the cruises from there.

Wildlife

Alaska has unique wildlife and any trip to Alaska will include visits to see these animals. The airport itself showcases their wildlife in the form of stuffed animals. Besides, there are monitors displaying various wildlife encounters available to tourists in Alaska. One of my future episodes will be dedicated entirely to Alaskan wildlife….

Stuck at the airport…..Stuffed and preserved….Black bear and Musk Ox

Private chartered flights

Small private chartered flights take passengers from Anchorage to various destinations. This is required because there are many places in Alaska where the access is only by air for most part of the year. People visiting Alaska for specific purposes at a particular destination, take these flights.

Chartered flights

Fishing

Alaska has a long coastline and provides endless opportunities for recreational fishing. Special fishing trips and charters are available. Many tourists enjoy the fishing and then carry the catch with them home. Towards this end, we find lot of travellers with fishing equipment and storage containers at the airport. Many locations offer facilities for storing fish and shipping them to the required destinations .

Fishing charters

Moving on to Anchorage city…..

Anchorage city

Overall, Anchorage was a small sleepy laidback city when we visited it in summer. Most activities revolved around tourists taking cruises from other places and just using the city as a halt. The streets were empty most of the time even in the downtown area. Evenings saw more activity related to bars and pubs. Mind you, this is in summer…the time of peak activity. In winters, when temperatures dip to sub zero, most establishments close down and many locals head to warmer places. This is true all over Alaska. Most of the tourism centric jobs are very seasonal and the locals need to find alternative occupations. The flowers and the grass would then be just a white carpet of snow. Life will be difficult for anyone who stays back in the winter. Winter tourism also takes place but in selected places mostly related to ski resorts and such activities.

The streets in the city are by and large square or rectangular and named by alphabets and numbers. That makes it a little easy to find one’s way around.

A typical street in downtown Anchorage (note the street name in alphabets)

Buildings have small flower beds outside and there are flowerbeds along most roads . Being summer, they were in full bloom and added beauty to the place.

Outside a building and at the bus stop

Beautiful flower beds by the roadside

Denali Views

Mt. Denali as viewed on a sunny day from Anchorage…that’s my featured image.

On bright sunny days, one can see Mt. Denali from Anchorage but we were not so lucky. As our visit was towards the fag end of summer, we hardly had bright sunny days.

What we saw…..

Views of Alaskan ranges from Anchorage city

Wall Murals

Wall murals are very popular in Alaska and we saw a lot of them both at Anchorage and Seward.

Hope Wall Mural

This was painted during the pandemic by a group of volunteers . It is in the form of squares which have been painted and then attached to the wall . This signifies hope that things can only get better and coming during the pandemic, it surely meant a lot!!!

Hopewall Mural

Indigenous people

Another interesting mural was one which depicted the close relationship between the indigenous people, the land, animals and their way of life…

Mural honouring the indigenous people

Whaling wall mural

Called Alaska’s Marinelife, it depicts whales and seals native to Alaska and adorns a huge wall in downtown Anchorage

Whaling wall mural

Downtown Anchorage is home to a variety of restaurants and bars. Difficult to recognise as a bar or pub; it seems very quiet from outside. Once the doors open, it is music and dance inside.

Restaurants and bars

Alaska Centre for Performing Arts

One of the buildings that looks different in downtown Anchorage is the Alaska Centre of Performing Arts which was lit up for some performance. Some pictures..

Alaska Centre of Performing Arts

Anchorage Museum

The Anchorage Museum has exhibits of art , history, the Discovery Centre, Science galleries and the Smithsonian Arctic studies centre.

Anchorage Museum and some exhibits

Just off downtown are residential communities which usually have a nice park for recreation…

Typical residences in Anchorage

War Veterans Memorial

Located at Delaney Park, this memorial has a soldier in combat mode and is dedicated to Alaskans who have died in combat during various wars.

Some pictures…

War Veterans Memorial

Resolution Park and Cook Memorial

A small park towards one end of downtown, has a bronze statue of Captain Cook. This is in commemoration of his exploration of the Cook Inlet on board HMS Resolution in 1776. Captain Cook did not actually reach Anchorage as part of his explorations though he paved the way for it.

Cook Memorial

Some disturbing truths….

Homeless and Drug Abuse

Downtown Anchorage did leave me a little disappointed. Large number of homeless people foraging dustbins was not what I had expected here. Half naked men and women lying on the roadside in different states of intoxication is a common sight. Many are quiet but others are constantly hurling abuses or standing in various acrobatic poses.

A homeless man forages a dustbin and a woman sleeps on the roadside

Simultaneously there are people trying to help and rehabilitate such people as you can see in the picture below where a drug rehabilitation camp of sorts was held at the local park.

Drug warning board in the park where rehabilitation camp was held

This is not exactly a very pleasant thing to talk about but I have to show the negative parts of a place too!!

Small tips for future travellers to Alaska

Weather can change any moment and so, be prepared with gear to face it at all times. Always dress in layers and thermal innerwear is preferable. Rain gear is essential whenever you step out. Good shoes , preferably hiking shoes will keep your feet warm and prevent you from slipping on wet surfaces.

When you plan an itinerary, always leave time for a last minute change due to weather conditions. So keep extra time at all destinations if you dont want to miss out on anything.

Most tour operators offer hotel drop and pickup.

Never interact with the homeless .

With this I wind up my episode on Anchorage city. Hope you have got a virtual picture of this city. We move on to more adventures in the coming episodes. Till then, do keep your comments and feedback coming.