Khardung La & Chang La: A Guide to Ladakh’s High Passes

The Himalayas form a continuous mountain chain to the north of India and have several passes spanning the states of Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh ,Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand and several North Eastern states. A pass is a path that passes through or across a mountain range and provides access to areas surrounding the mountain. Typically they are formed by glaciers, rivers and melting snow that erodes the mountain range.

The major mountain passes located in Ladakh are, Khardung La, Chang La, Zoji La ,Umling La, Tanglang La, Imis La and Bara Lacha La. The word La means pass.

We visited Khardung La and Chang La passes during our trip to Ladakh and those will be our focus in this episode.

Khardung La Pass

Khardung La lies in the Ladakh range, 39 kms. north of Leh connecting the Indus and Shyok river valleys. At a height of 5359 mts ( 17,982 ft ) Khardung La serves as a gateway to the Nubra Valley and is a crucial point in transporting supplies to Siachen glacier.

Historically, Khardung La lies on the silk route to Central Asia and was used by caravans of horses and camels

Today, there is a road that takes one to this pass. The construction of this road was started in 1972 and completed by 1976. This road was open to the public in 1988. The BRO (Border Roads Organisation) maintains this road today and it is the second highest motorable road in the world. The initial part of the road is paved but there are areas along the road that is mainly loose rock and dirt , partly caused by the extreme weather conditions of the area. All along the route we can see road construction work going on with heavy duty equipment maneuvering the difficult terrain.

Road to Khardung La-the second highest motorable road in the world

The difficult mountain road to Khardung La

As we drive along, we find a lot of adventurous bikers from all over the world on their way to Khardung La . Many of them have the national flag on their bikes giving a lot of patriotic feel.

A group of bikers on their way

One can see snow round the year at Khardung La but during the winter months and after sunset, the drive may be very risky due to frost leading to slippery roads.

Reaching Khardung La

At Khardungla Top , the snow, the summit markers and colored Buddhist flags welcome us. The view from there is simply breathtaking with snow covered mountains all around.

The milestone on the top

At Khardung La top

The amazing views from the top

And not to miss this cryptic message from the BRO…

A cryptic and meaningful message from BRO

The high altitude is a deterrent to spending more time here and after the photos and enjoying the views for some time, we came down to a less crowded spot to enjoy ourselves by playing in the snow.

Playing with the snow

After some exciting time at Khardung La, we drove down to Nubra valley . More on Nubra valley later.

The other Himalayan pass that we traversed during the Ladakh trip was the Chang La.

Chang La

Located on the route to Pangong lake, Chang La has an elevation of 5391 mts (17,688 ft) and offers beautiful views of the Himalayan ranges. Chang La which means “Pass towards the South” is the third highest motorable pass in the world.

The drive to Chang La is equally challenging with steep , winding roads which have been damaged at places due to landslides and extreme weather conditions. Most of the road is asphalted but at places it is loose soil and stones.

The steep winding roads to Chang La

Interspersed with snow fields and azure lakes in the distance, the drive is heavenly indeed!!

The snow fields and azure lakes enroute

Click on the video for an experience of the drive…

After this breathtaking drive we arrived at Chang La where the prayer flags and summit markers greeted us to wonderful views.

Some pictures from Chang La…

At Chang La

Our group at the Chang La summit marker

Right at the summit is a temple dedicated to a sadhu known as Chang La Baba.

Temple dedicated to Chang La Baba

The Indian Army has significant presence at Khardung La and Chang La. The most obvious reason of course is security. The passes are particularly vulnerable areas close to our borders and the security forces are on constant vigil and they also oversee the safety of the tourists arriving there.

There are many sign boards depicting the work of the Indian Army at the summits.

Another Message from The Indian Army

Problems of altitude

Due to the low oxygen saturation of the air in these high altitudes, breathing difficulties may be encountered and hence, we stayed there only for a few minutes. People with heart conditions and breathing problems must take proper medical advice and carry necessary medical supplies while traveling to these destinations.

Our vehicles were equipped with oxygen cylinders and necessary supplies during this trip.

Take a Bow

When we visit these areas where life can be a challenge at every point, we really feel indebted to the defence personnel manning these places. All along the difficult route small camps of the services can be seen. The personnel who work here stay away from their families and live through the extreme and unpredictable weather conditions with constant danger of the enemy. They do a lot of sacrifices so that we can live a peaceful life.

Apart from the main Defence forces, The Border Roads Organization (BRO) does a great job of building the roads and maintaining them. We are able to travel to these places only because of the great work they constantly do.

There is also a DRDO research station close to Chang La.

I hope the trip through the mountain passes was thrilling. See you next week from other destinations in enchanting Ladakh.

I close this episode with a sense of gratitude to the Indian Army and the allied services and with a sense of pride to be an Indian. Jai Hind.

Till then, do subscribe, like and comment.

Scenic drive to Thimpu

A beautiful morning dawned in Phuentsholing and we were all set to move to Thimpu which was our next destination in Bhutan. We were to continue our drive further in the Duars region of the Himalayas and it had to be beautiful.

After a sumptuous breakfast at our hotel, we set off on this drive on a bright and sunny day. Soon we left Phuentsholing town and its outskirts and were truly in the lap of the lower Himalayas.

Hills on one side and ravines on the other, with rivers at the bottom of the ravines….a very simplistic description of the surroundings . But a few pictures will give you a clearer picture of the scenery…

Leaving Phuentsholing behind…

The winding roads and the Monastery roofs add to the beauty

Stupas of this type line the roadside every now and then

The varied shades of green on the hillside and a waterfall far away

Soon we stopped at a View Point. The views were beautiful and there were the typical coloured flags hung over there. Sanchay, our Bhutanese guide explained the significance of the flags and its importance in Bhutanese culture.

Beautiful view from the view point with a monastery we had passed by on top of another hill

Stupa at the Viewpoint

Our group at the viewpoint and Sanchay explains…

Bhutanese Flags and their significance…

Talking of flags, the bus in which we were travelling had this colourful flag hung in front…so typically Bhutanese…

The flags with the famous Bhutanese chant…..

Coloured flags : Colours of the flags represent the five elements which create and destroy us. The colours are…blue (sky), White (clouds), Red (fire), Green(water) and yellow (earth) .There are prayers written on these flags and are tied by common people to ward off evil and bring good fortune.

White flags : These are tied by relatives of a dead person in his honour and they too contain prayers which will give salvation to the soul. 108 white flags are generally put up for one person. We found several such groups of flags on the hillside everywhere as we drive along.

Coloured flags and white flags dot the hillsides everywhere

We continued our drive and soon took a wash room halt near a group of shops. Some pictures of local life in Bhutan…

A fruit shop on the way. The white cubes seen hanging is a variety of hard Bhutanese cheese

A wayside shack of a shop with a little shopkeeper, local greens and brinjals…

Continuing our drive, we were in for more natural beauty….

A river flows along the ravine

Every now and then there were places of landslides which are very common in this region.

Evidence of landslides

A small waterfall

Soon it was lunch time and we halted for lunch at the Dam View Restaurant. Some pictures from near the restaurant..

The valley and the dam

We enjoyed the scenery from the restaurant overlooking the valley and the dam . Our first encounter with KEWA DATCHI also took place here. It is a very popular Bhutanese dish which has a cheesy gravy with potatoes similar to our vegetable stew.

The restaurant and Kewa Datchi ( traditional Bhutanese gravy)

When we are talking about the dam, there is something interesting I learnt about Bhutan. Bhutan produces surplus hydroelectric power and India is one of the countries that imports the power from them. I felt it was commendable for such a small kingdom to do this!!!

At many places during our drives through Bhutan, there were check posts where Sanchay would get down and present all our papers ….probably crossing over to a different district..I assumed !

Continuing our drive to Thimpu, we encountered some rocky areas of the hill slopes with the roads being particularly narrow at places. At places the rocks seemed to have faces chiselled on them…or was it just my imagination running wild ?…you can decide by looking at the pictures below…

Rocky cliffs and chiselled rocky hillslopes

A stream was flowing by peacefully…

A stream flows along

Sanchay then announced that he is going to give us a surprise….a waterfall where we could wet our feet…

The waterfall and some of us near it….the water was ice cold

Enjoy the feel of the icy cold waters in this video

After the icy encounter, for which we thanked Sanchay, we continued the journey to Thimpu and soon, we could see signs of a city approaching…

As we approached Thimpu

As in any other place, gradually the number of buildings along the roadside increased and soon we were at Thimpu . We thought we would drive directly to our hotel but Sanchay had other plans for us. He wanted to take us to Thimpu Dzong , which is a government office and a monastery rolled into one . So we drove straight there and visited the Dzong where we also witnessed the traditional flag lowering ceremony that happens every evening there.

After the visit to the Dzong we drove to our hotel in Thimpu and relaxed for the night.

The Thimpu Dzong which we visited needs elaborate description and will be covered in my next episode on the dzongs of Bhutan. See you next week in the dzongs…a unique place , typical of Bhutan. Till then, do subscribe, comment and give your feedback.