Discover the Enchanting Amboseli National Park in Kenya

Amboseli National park is one of the most scenic parks in Kenya with Mt. Kilimanjaro , the highest free standing mountain overlooking it. Spreading across the Kenya Tanzania border is a 8000 sq km core area eco system including Tsavo and other national parks. Amboseli occupies a 392 sq km area within this eco system.

A map showing the location of Amboseli in the African continent.

The uniqueness of this park are its views of the snow capped Mt. Kilimanjaro, also called Africa’s watchtower.

Mt Kilimanjaro with animals grazing below

At the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro amid the dusty landscape lies an ecological masterpiece at a height of 1150 metres above sea level which the Maasai called “Embosel” meaning salty dusty plain. This is what we refer to now as Amboseli National Park.

And true to its name, Amboseli is very dusty due to the loose volcanic soil that gets kicked up with the march of the animals and the safari vehicles that follow them. Very often you find a vortex of dust spinning around in the horizon like a small local tornado.

The dust swirls like a localised tornado

The Amboseli ecosystem is home to the Maasai people and their cattle whose cultural heritage and pastoral practices have shaped their co existence with wildlife leading to Amboseli being recognised as a “UNESCO Man and Biosphere reserve” . Locals are involved in conservation and the idea is sustainable development with conservation.

Amboseli…Man and Biosphere Reserve

The Maasai with their cattle, a common sight as you drive through Kenya

Uninhibited visibility till the horizon

This is what struck me here. Both in Amboseli and Masai Mara, there is uninhibited visibility all around till the horizon. I have never seen such vast expanses of land with no manmade structure extending for miles on end. This makes it so easy to spot wildlife that even in the horizon if a giraffe raises it’s head, you can see it miles away.

This picture will help illustrate my point.

Unfettered visibilityThe landscape is so open that you can spot an elephant and three giraffes miles away with a few gazelles close by.

The dry season at Amboseli

It offers one of the best wildlife viewing opportunities in the world with sparse vegetation due to the long dry months between June and October . During this period the grasses are short and scotched making wildlife viewing easy. Besides, the dry season results in drying up of waterbodies resulting in the animals moving in herds over long distances in search of water .

This is the most fascinating time to visit Amboseli which is home to over 80 species including the African elephant, impalas, gazelles, lions, cheetahs, hyenas, giraffes, zebras , wildebeest and over 400 species of birds including the massive ostriches, bustards and various water birds.

The dry season, also results in low insect population particularly mosquitoes making one’s stay more comfortable.

Amboseli is recognised more for its elephant sightings as it has more than 1800 of them ,the largest population of African elephants .You can get close to free ranging elephant herds and enjoy their group interactions at close quarters. In fact , it is referred to as the “Land of Giants” due to it’s huge elephant herds, most of them with large impressive tusks.

An elephant herd at Amboseli

Our Amboseli experience

Landing at Nairobi one evening, and staying overnight we left for Amboseli early morning by a Toyota Land cruiser vehicle used for these safaris. The roof of the vehicle can be opened for free viewing and photography. There were six of us in a vehicle. The drive was comfortable and we reached Amboseli around noon. After lunch and check in at the jungle lodge, we were off on the safari. The next day too, we did a day long drive through Amboseli National park. What follows from now on are those memories relived. This trip will have more pictures and videos for obvious reasons .

Join me on this incredible journey through the heart of Africa….

The safari vehicle

We entered Amboseli at the Kimana gate . After a short halt and some formalities, we were in to the park…

Amboseli Kimana gate entrance

The drive through the park was on mud paths between the savannah grasslands. At many places, the road was bad and a good driver …our Elvis and his well maintained vehicle helped us a lot.

The most common species we found were the gazelles. Herds of them grazing along…

A pair of Thomson’s Gazelle

Amboseli is Elephant land and so, we were treated to views of multiple elephant herds engaged in various daily activities like feeding, mud bathing , protecting the young, romancing, fighting and many of them crossed the road in front of our vehicle.

A loner…

A herd of elephants

The wide outstretched ears….

A mild altercation

Elephants cross the road in front of our vehicle

Soon we came across some giraffes walking along with graceful strides…

The majestic walk of the giraffe (click on video) PC… Mr Arun Nathan

As we drove along, our driver Elvis was in radio contact with other safari vehicles. Every now and then, he would be alerted on some sightings and we would head there. Lions were our next alert and off we went. A pride of lionesses lay in wait…

Lionesses on prowl

Some interesting bird sightings….

Grey crested Crane

It is found in nearly all of Africa, especially in eastern and southern Africa, and it is the national bird of Uganda.

Grey Crested Crane

Kori Bustard

The Kori Bustard is the heaviest flying bird native to Africa.

Great Bustard

Ostrich

The common Ostrich , is a species of flightless bird native to certain large areas of Africa.

An Ostrich trudges along…

As one drives through this national park , what strikes us is the distinctly different vegetation at various places within. What is predominantly savannah grasslands and open plains suddenly gives way to swamps and wetlands and includes a dried Pleistocene lake.

Palm tree clusters

Swamps and a lake

Lake Amboseli , a lake located within the National park is dry in most parts during the dry season but floods up with the rains. Driving close to the lake gives great opportunities to view waterbirds and hippos.

As we drove close to the lake we were pleasantly surprised by a pink haze in the horizon. Little did we know that a flock of flamingoes had decided to give us a surprise. Flamingoes are not normally seen here very commonly. But we were lucky!!

Flamingoes for you….

More Waterbirds….

Pelicans

A herd of zebras were seen grazing by the swamp…

Zebras grazing peacefully

An observation hill located close to the lake gives a bird’s eye view of the National park and its environs.

As we arrived there, we were greeted by flocks of Superb starlings with their vibrant blue coloured backs. Making a real cacophony, they hopped around near our vehicle.

Superb starlings

The observation point on the hillock

View of Amboseli lake from observation point with some resting hippos

Apart from this we did see wildebeest grazing around. But the number of wildebeest we saw in Masai Mara was something extraordinary and so I will cover wildebeest under Masai Mara.

This sums up our Amboseli experience. This is how it looks in the dry season.

The wet season between April and June sees the parks roads becoming a challenge to move on. But with new vegetation springing up, the views are totally different with gazelles and zebras trying to hide behind the tall grass to elude predators, the migratory birds moving in from Europe and fresh little wildlife appearing as the old ones give birth.

Hence, a visit in the two seasons can leave one with entirely different perspectives of this natural wonder.

Hope you enjoyed your safari through Amboseli.

Next week, we are at Lake Naivasha where an opportunity to walk with the zebras and giraffes awaited us. So wait for that, but do not forget to subscribe, comment and give your feedback.

Mudumalai…. where the Elephants Whisper

One of the main attributes of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, Mudumalai National Park and it’s buffer zone form a dedicated Tiger Reserve too. Spread over an area of more than 320 sq kms and spanning an elevation of 850 to 1300 metres, Mudumalai has amazing biodiversity and harbours tropical and subtropical forests, and a vast treasure of wildlife . Mudumalai Tiger Reserve is one of the five elephant reserves in Tamil Nadu and apart from being home to elephants, also houses the Bengal tiger, the Indian leopard, the sloth bear and many species of birds.

Welcome to Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve

The entrance to the Mudumalai National Park

Contiguous with The Wayanad Wildlife sanctuary, The Bandipur National Park and the Sigur and Singara Reserve forests, this National Park forms an important wildlife corridor within the Biosphere Reserve. It provides landscape connectivity for the Asian elephant population in the area contributing to the elephant protection and conservation in a huge way. All these areas are also part of the majestic Western Ghats that border the southern Indian peninsula. The Moyar river is the lifeline of this sanctuary.

There are various visitor attractions at Mudumalai park. Good wildlife viewing opportunities are the Elephant safari and the Van safari conducted by the forest department. Elephant feeding camp at Theppakadu gives an opportunity to see the elephants being bathed and fed. Bokkapuram, Masinagudi, Mavanhalla and Singara are villages here where small homestay accomodations are available.

Staying at one of these destinations gives visitors an opportunity to take safaris in forest vehicles through tracks inside the forest .

Driving to Masinagudi

A forest lodge at Masinagudi and a watch tower to observe wildlife

The landscape at Masinagudi

The Moyyar river near Masinagudi

A drive through the Mudumalai National park can be very exciting. Some pictures to prove this…

An Elephant family goes about their daily life…

Deer decide to display their road crossing skills…

The bisons decide to test our vehicle brakes….

And the little birdie displayed her home…

Where the Elephants Whisper….

The movie “The Elephant Whisperers” which went on to win the Oscar in 2023 chronicled the life of Bomman and Bellie who tended to Raghu ,an orphaned elephant calf. And it all happened right here at the Theppakadu elephant camp where Bomman worked as a mahout. The movie shot this couple to fame.

Theppakadu Elephant camp where this film was shot also shot to fame and public attention was drawn to this camp.

In 2024, The Tamil Nadu forest department released a calender with beautiful pictures of the inhabitants of Theppakadu and their caretakers. The calender outlines the life stories of these elephants.

Bomman and Bellie, the real life heros of “The Elephant Whisperers”

Theppakadu Elephant Camp

This is the oldest elephant camp in Asia ; established more than a century ago and lies in the Mudumalai National Park. Originally the elephants were used for timber transportation . Over time ,it has grown into a conservation, rescue and rehabilitation centre for the gentle giants.

The camp rehabilitates elephant calves who have been abandoned or orphaned and trains them as “Kumkis”. These are trained elephants who are used to mitigate human animal conflict by assisting forest officials in driving wild elephants back into the forest and capturing wild elephants who enter human habitations and cause damage. Thus the abandoned calves are not only cared for but are put to effective use.

Most of the mahouts at Theppakadu are tribals belonging to the Kattunayakar tribe. This is a good example of local tribal participation in conservation.

This camp is also a tourist destination where elephant feeding can be observed besides elephant rides through the sanctuary.

Lodging facilities are available close to the camp .

At Theppakadu

Accomodation at Theppakadu

Feeding centre at Theppakkadu

Food being mixed at the camp

Sigur Plateau

An important wildlife corridor within the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, this area supports more than 6300 elephants being the largest single elephant population in India. It is home to several critical elephant migration corridors and was added to Mudumalai as a buffer zone for tiger conservation.

However several threats exist to this critical zone.The growth of resorts and consequent expansion of human activities, the growth of invasives weed species leading to destruction of natural foliage are some of the threats which are being addressed.

Travelling to Mudumalai

Ooty (68kms) and Mysore(100kms) are the nearest railheads while Coimbatore(160kms), Calicut(124kms) and Bangalore(240kms) are the nearest airports.

Reasonably good roads connect all these destinations with Mudumalai. A stay of a couple of days and a few safari rides are good opportunities for wildlife viewing.

With all these attractive wildlife viewing opportunities available at reasonable cost, Mudumalai sure should find a place in your travel bucket list.

Do visit this camp and have a look at the lives of these elephants….

Till then give your feedback and comments…..