Standing on the banks of the Nile, is this unique TWIN temple in the town of Kom Ombo ,near Aswan in Egypt. One temple is dedicated to Sobek, ( crocodile headed God with a human body) and other to Horus,( falcon-headed God). Dating back to the Ptolemaic and Roman periods ,the temple is perfectly symmetrical along the main axis, has two entrances, two halls with carvings of the two gods on either side and twin sanctuaries. Much of the temple has been destroyed by the Nile, earthquakes and invaders.
The Nile was at one point of time infested with crocodiles who would attack the locals and it was believed that if they made it an object of worship, they would not be attacked. Kom Ombo temple was at one point of time teeming with crocodiles. Captive crocodiles were kept in the temple and even today, mummified crocodiles are seen here.
The temple has a crocodile museum where crocodile mummies have been displayed.
Sobek ( The crocodile headed God)
Sobek or the Crocodile God is depicted as a crocodile headed man wearing a crown with two ram horns and a sun disk and two plumes. The ancient Egyptians prayed to Sobek for protection, strength and fertility. Though initially he was believed to be a protector from crocodiles, later he was known as the “Lord of the Waters” as they believed that the Nile was created with his sweat. Since crocodiles bask in the sun and return to the dark waters at night, Sobek was also regarded as the protector of Ra or the Sun God. This illustrates the importance attached to crocodiles in ancient Egyptian culture.
Sobek…the crocodile headed God
Our trip
We were on a Nile cruise and after sailing from Aswan at noon, we reached Kom Ombo by evening. The temple was visible from the cruise itself as we docked at Kom Ombo.
View of the temple as we docked at Kom Ombo
Soon we alighted from the cruise and walked up to the temple. It was getting dark and the lit up temple entrance looked awesome.
The illuminated entrance to the Kom Ombo temple
The main feature of the temple was the hall with multiple pillars with reliefs depicting the Gods and the kings.
Entering the hall
The hall with massive columns with reliefs.
Many of the pillars have symbolic representation of upper and lower Egypt by the lotus and lily flowers.
The symbolic floral representation on top of the columns
Images of some of the important reliefs seen on the columns…
The coronation of the King
The other interesting feature is the large number of hieroglyphic displays. Here are two such displays…
Hieroglyphic numbers
Hieroglyphic representation of seasons
The pillared halls lead to a central courtyard and from there on to the inner chambers. Many of the chambers were used to store valuables and papyrus documents but lie in ruins now . However, secret underground passages are seen. It is believed that these chambers were used by priests to answer the petitions of pilgrims as if it is spoken by God adding authenticity and belief among the devout.
The secret underground chambers
As we walk along the outer passage we come across a stone block where pictures of ancient Egyptian medical instruments were depicted.
The display of ancient Egyptian surgical instruments
Nilograph
A deep well with height measurements clearly marked on the sides surprised us. Zak, our guide pitched in to explain that this was a Nilograph. This was used in ancient Egypt to measure the water level in the Nile as it was connected to the river lower down. Taxes for the locals were calculated as per the water level in the Nile as drought years were low tax years!! Can you even imagine that the Nile controlled so many aspects of ancient Egyptian life?
Nilograph
The Crocodile Museum
As we move outside the temple, we reach the crocodile museum. This museum has various exhibits connected to the relationship between ancient Egyptians and crocodiles. Mummified crocodiles and sarcophagus of crocodiles can be seen here.
Some pictures from the Crocodile museum
A crocodile sculpture
Mummified crocodiles
Crocodiles wrapped in linen saturated with oils and resins after desiccation with salts. Palm leaves helped in supporting the mummies and preservation.
Crocodile Mummies wrapped in linen soaked in oils and resins
Crocodile mummies in ceramic coffins with pots and other burial goods
Crocodile Eggs
After finishing the visit to the Kom Ombo temple , I must admit I was left with a strange feeling. I was shaken up with all the crocodile mummies and the strange customs of the ancient people.
I left with the feeling that the world never leaves us with a dearth of things to ponder on!!!
Next week we shall enjoy the cruise on the Nile that actually took us to these destinations and more to come….
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Travel-along.in 