Author: Leela Gopinath

Doctor by profession. Travel enthusiast. Travel blogger. Visit my site https://travel-along.in/

Biryani and Pearls; Hyderabad

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Telangana

Today we do a quick roundup of various attractions in and around Hyderabad. Having covered Golconda and the museums earlier, this episode covers the other destinations.

Qutub Shahi Tombs

These are the tombs of the kings of the Qutub Shahi dynasty of Persia/Iran who ruled this area . The tombs are located just one kilometre from the Golconda fort. One can see the domes of these tombs from the top of Golconda fort.

These tombs are present in a large group and is unique in that the entire dynasty is buried in the same place making it a one-of-a-kind tomb in the world. There are seven such tombs in the complex. These tombs which have intricate stonework on them , lie in beautifully landscaped gardens called Ibrahim Bagh. An amalgam of Persian and Hindu architecture adds to its uniqueness.

Each tomb is quadrangular and rises above a flat raised terrace. Some of the tombs have double stories. The tombs are surrounded by beautifully crafted minarets. The domes were studded with blue and green tiles once upon a time , but now, most of it is damaged.

Just like in Golconda fort, these tombs also have unique acoustic features due to the diamond cuts on the undersurface of the domes.

Exterior of one of the tombs

The decorated entrance and undersurface of the dome

The tomb itself

A QutubShahi heritage centre is coming up in the complex.

After seeing the tombs , we were headed to the iconic image of Hyderabad; The Charminar.

The Charminar

Once again connected to the Qutub Shahi dynasty, the reason to build this monument is still not clear. There are various opinions on this.

Some of the reasons propounded are that the Sultan built it in memory of his wife Bhagmati at the place where he saw her for the first time. Queen Bhagmati later embraced Islam and assumed the name Hyderi Begum after whom Hyderabad is named. An epidemic of plague had wrecked havoc and the king is supposed to have built it as an offering when the epidemic ended. Another version is that it is supposed to commemorate the start of the second Islamic millenium. Let us leave these legends aside and see the structure itself which is real…..

Built with granite and mortar, this square monument measures twenty metres on each side and faces thoroughfares on all four sides. Each corner has a pillar or minar hence the name Charminar which translates to four pillars. Each of these pillars has four stories with each floor divided by artistically carved rings. One can climb around 150 steps to reach the top from where you get a good view of the city. There is a mosque on top of the monument. Each pillar looks like a lotus leaf and each side has a clock too.

The iconic Charminar

The intricate art work on the Charminar

The area around the monument is Ladd bazar and has a lot of roadside stalls selling clothes ,trinkets and other souveniers . Roadside eateries claiming to serve authentic biryani and faloodas abound.

Hyderabadi Biryani is famous for its unique taste due to the right combination of various Indian spices, meat and the aromatic rice that is used. A visit to Hyderabad is incomplete without tasting the local Biryani.

The area is extremely crowded and one can easily get lost in the maze.

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View of Ladd Bazar and famous Hyderabadi Biryani

Hussainsagar Lake

This artificial heart shaped lake built in 1563 , again by one of the Qutub Shahi kings covers an area of 5.7 sq kms. It separates Hyderabad from Secunderabad. It was built by the King for drinking and irrigation purposes of his subjects

A 18 mt high monolithic Buddha statue chiseled out of white granite was erected in 1992 and stands on a rock in the center of the lake. Regular boat services are available to the statue. It is lit up at night and adds to the beauty of the lake. In addition, the lights along the Tank Bund reflecting on the lake is a beautiful sight.

Husainsagar Lake with Buddha Statue

The lit up Buddha Statue and reflection of row of lights on the lake

Husainsagar lake is a popular sailing destination where regattas are conducted regularly by various sailing associations. Multiple parks surround the lake area and provide entertainment of various kinds to the visitors. Musical fountains, boating facilities, a laser auditorium are some of the attractions in the Lumbini Park, NTR Gardens, Sanjeeviah Park and a few of such parks located around the lake.

The Telengana Secretariat is located right opposite the lake and the imposing building looks attractive specially when lit up at night.

Telengana Secretariat

The Amara Jyothi

This is a Martyr’s Memorial near the lake . Shaped like a flame, it is the largest seamless stainless steel structure in the world and is five times bigger than the cloud gate at Chicago. At night, the flame is lit up and the base reflects the light from the surroundings giving it a terrific appearance !

The Amara Jyothi or Martyr’s Memorial

The lit up memorial with reflection of the Secretariat on it

The Tank Bund has statues of various eminent personalities too.

The lake has deteriorated today with unplanned urbanisation and sewage dumping. The depth of the lake has reduced due to silt accumulation and many undesirable changes have taken place in its biological communities. A plan to correct this damage is being implemented.

Hyderabad Zoo

Hyderabad has a relatively well maintained zoological park covering a vast area. Most of the inhabitants roam around freely in their assigned areas and are separated from visitors by moats. They have a buggy system where you can alight at your chosen destination and board the next buggy to go elsewhere. This was really convenient as the area was very huge . There are facilities to book a safari too.

It had been a long long time since we visited a zoo and this one brought back memories of childhood picnics. Some pictures…

The safari area and the buggy

The bear and the hippo

Enjoy the tigers playing around in this video

Pearls

Last but not the least, Hyderabad is known as the city of pearls. This is due to its booming pearl processing and trading industry. The Qutub Shahi kings and the later rulers who ruled the area for over 200 years were very fond of pearls and this attracted craftsmen from all over the world to this area. The pearls formed an integral part of the traditional regalia and crushed pearls were known to have healing and beautifying properties. The persian gulf was a source of pearls for a long time but with the discovery of oil and consequent pollution led to a decline in pearl supplies from there and this also led to Hyderabad slowly becoming a pearl destination.

Pearl Jewellery

This brings us to the end of this episode. Next week we move on to Andhra Pradesh . Till then, do comment and give your feedback.

The Museums of Hyderabad

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Telangana

Two of the most beautiful museums/palaces are in Hyderabad and today we have a look at them. The vast collection of antiques that these museums have will surprise you. And the peculiar part is that most of these are collections of one individual. The interest in art and architecture that was nurtured is really amazing. The palace which is now a museum has such beautiful architecture and decor that it will leave you stunned!!

Come along…let’s see the palace first…

Chowmahalla Palace

Once the residence of the Nizams of Hyderabad, this palace is a museum today though the ownership still lies with the Nizams. The present day palace was built by the Nizam at the location of one of the existing palaces of the Qutub Shahi dynasty. Since he built four palaces, it is called chow mahalla meaning four palaces.

Though the construction started in the 18th century, it went on over a few decades resulting in the integration of many architectural styles. It primarily has two courtyards, a durbar hall,fountains and gardens. What was originally covering an area of 45 acres; is only 12 acres today!

As one enters the palace gates, we are in the Northern Courtyard where there is a long central quadrangle with corridors on either side with a pond and landscaped lawns in the middle. Right opposite the entrance and forming the third side of the quadrangle is Durbar Hall or the Khilwat Mubarak.

Durbar Hall

This is considered the heart of the palace as it was the seat of the Nizams. Decorated marble pillars rise from a marble floor. The Royal Seat or throne made of marble adorns the centre of the Durbar Hall. Beautiful chandeliers of various sizes drop down from an elaborately carved ceiling adding to the splendour of the hall.

The Durbar Hall

At the Durbar hall with the chandeliers and the throne

The beautiful ceiling and corridor of the durbar hall

As mentioned earlier, the palace is a museum now and has exhibits under various categories . Most of them are articles used by the Nizams and their exhaustive collections of antiques.

The seals used by the Nizam and a collection of porcelain

Beautiful paintings reflecting various events in the palace are also displayed.

A painting of all the Nizams

A painting of a durbar in session

The other interesting thing at the palace is the collection of vintage cars and other transport from a bygone era…

One of the vintage cars displayed

The Southern Courtyard is also a quadrangle but the sides of the quadrangle are formed by the four palaces with a central fountain. The palaces are built symmetrically opposite to each other . The palaces have huge columns and the artwork on the exterior of these palaces is outstanding indeed.

Afzal Mahal, one of the palaces

The beautiful artwork on the palace exteriors

Going through the exhaustive collections in the Chowmahalla Palace museum, we were astouned at its sheer volumes. But our next destination Salar Jung Museum surpassed even this.

Salar Jung Museum

Established in 1951 at the ancestral palace of the Salar Jung family this museum was moved to its present location in 1968. The Jung family served as prime ministers to the Nizams of Hyderabad . This collection is a repository of art objects from Europe, middle East, far East and Indian art and heritage works from the Maurayan times to the Mughal era. Most of it is the collection of Salar Jung III. The museum has a manuscript section and a reference library.

Some pictures…

The Salar Jung Museum

Eastern Porcelain gallery

Ivory gallery

Kondapally toys and Indian Bronze

Indian Art and Textiles

One of the most popular exhibits here is an Italian Marble sculpture of Veiled Rebecca.

Veiled Rebecca

This is but a small example of the vast collections in this museum. Besides this, the walls of the central quadrangles are painted with murals and there is an ancient musical clock which is functional even now.

A mural on the wall of the centre court

The Musical Clock and it’s history

After walking through the various galleries at the museum, we were amazed at the sheer volumes of a personal collection!!

Tad tired after the long walk, we returned back to the cool comfort of the car and back to the hotel.

Next week, we cover some more interesting places in Hyderabad. Till then its goodbye…

Do leave your comments and feedback…..

Golconda ; the fort of diamonds

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India, Telangana

Once upon a time, in the 1600s, there was a fort in India with a vault storing some of the most precious diamonds of all time. The Kohinoor and Hope diamonds were among these stored here . Do you know which fort I am talking about? The historic Golconda fort located in Hyderabad.

At that time, India had the only known diamond mine in the world. These mines were located in the Guntur and Krishna districts in present day Telangana. These diamonds were cut and sold in the diamond market city of Golconda which lay inside fortressed walls. It was such a booming centre of diamond trade that the word “Golconda” became synonymous with great wealth and held a legendary aura about itself.

Today, if you visit Golconda, all that remains is the ruined walls of a fortress city , a far cry from the legendary aura that it once held. Ofcourse what remains of the walls and rooms does give the feel of pomp and splendour of the bygone era. Today, Golconda fort finds itself on the tentaive list of UNESCO to become a World Heritage site and is under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India.

Before I take you through the fort itself, a short history will help put things in perspective.

Golconda, a historical perspective

The fort itself was built in mud by the Kakatiya ruler, Prataprudra in the 11th century. It went from him to the Bahmani Kings and then on to the Qutub Shahi dynasty. It was under the Qutub Shahi dynasty that Golconda fort saw its expansion from the original mud walls to huge fortified granite walls and it became their capital. It was a great centre of cotton trade and cotton fabrics were even exported from there apart from the booming diamond trade .This brought great wealth to the Qutub Shahi rulers . This attracted the Moghuls and in 1687 , Aurangzeb led his army to the Golconda fort marking the beginning of Moghul rule in the region. After the fall of the Moghul Empire in 1724 , Golconda came under the Nizams of Hyderabad and subsequently after Indian Independence, integration of Hyderabad state occured.

Golconda Fort

As one drives in to Golconda fort, one passes through narrow crowded streets and suddenly encounters a fortified stone wall with an entrance. This is the Moti Darwaza and this wall is the outer wall of the fort stretching over a distance of 11 kms. We enter through this gate and continue to drive through narrow streets lined with old dilapidated houses and shops. People go about their daily lives in a hurry and I understand that this part of Golconda had the living quarters of the helpers of the rulers at one point of time and it is now home to their descendents. This was all part of the fortified city at one point in time.

The Moti Darwaza and the narrow streets that lie inside…

Continuing to drive along the narrow crowded streets, we reach an open area from where the actual fort can be seen. The inner part of the fort starts from here and this wall extends over a distance of 4 kms . It was within these walls that the royal family resided . After the tickets are purchased at the counter, one has to walk along a paved path with a manicured lawn on one side.

Then we reach an ornate doorway decorated with images of peacocks and lions indicative of the Hindu origins of this fort. The door is solid metal and looks very heavy. This is the BalaHissar gate.

The ornate doorway and the huge metal door at BalaHisar gate.

After you cross the gate and walk ahead , almost the first thing you encounter is the Fateh Darwaza. This gate or darwaza has a cannon mounted on its wall and if one stands beneath the dome and claps one’s hand, the sound is supposed to reach the top. This is supposed to be a safety measure to warn the inhabitants of impending danger. The dome has geometric cuts along the walls which provide this acoustic effect which is one of the specialities of this fort.

Apart from this, there are a couple of places in the palaces of the fort where this unique acoustic system has been put to use.

Fateh Dawaza ……Note the geometric cuts on the ceiling giving the acoustic effect

Crossing this door and walking along a paved passage, one gets a view of major parts of the fort…..an overview of the place…

The first views of the entire fort…

The paved pathway and at places a wooden one guides one through the ruins of the fort.

To the left of the pathway is an ornate building with multiple arches called tha Aslah Khana. This was the place where arms and ammunition were stored.

Aslah Khana

Continuing further, we reach the area where the offices of the kingdom were located. This also has elaborate arches with a storage loft above to store documents.

Walking along further, we come across the barracks where the foot soldiers lived. Now, this is strategically located at the outermost part of the fort

Barracks

Soon we reach the palace area with the lawns in the centre and the palace on one side called the Rani Mahal .There is a courtyard with a stage on the opposite side where Taramati and Bhagmati , the court dancers used to dance and the royal family enjoyed it. The centre court also has a ruined fountain. The makeup room of the queen lies adjacent to this.

Rani Mahal with the open courtyard

The Queen’s bath and makeup rooms

At many places, one can see the dilapidated and broken pipelines used in those days. The water to Golconda was transported by canals from Banjara hills and pumped using wheels.

There are two mosques within the fort. The first one is the Taramati mosque used by the commoners and the other one is the Ibrahim mosque located at the top and used by the royalty.

The Taramati mosque (left) and Mosque of Ibrahim

Nagina Bagh

This is a landscaped garden which was once the diamond trading centre.

Nagina Bagh

A climb of more than 350 steps takes one to the top of the fort where the Durbar Hall is located. As we climb up, we come across Ramdas Prison where Bhakt Ramdas was imprisoned. He had used money from the kingdom to build a temple for Rama and that led to his imprisonment.

Bhakt Ramdas jail and the steps to the Durbar hall

Climbing up , we first come across the Jagdamba Temple which is more than 500 years old. Legend has it that Prataprudran , the Kaktiya ruler built this temple here and the fort was built from there downwards later on. Even today, worship takes place at this temple.

Jagdamba Temple

Baradari or Darbar Hall

This was where public audiences were held and there are two buildings Diwan I Aam and Diwan I Khas around an elevated central courtyard.

Baradari and steep steps leading to it

From the central courtyard which is the highest point of the fort, one can get a beautiful panoramic view of Hyderabad city. The famous Qutub Shahi tombs where the Qutub Shahi dynasty was laid to rest can also be seen from here. There is a secret underground tunnel from here that leads to the tombs and Charminar. In case of enemy attack, the royalty could escape to charminar and in case of death, the body would be secretly laid to rest at the tombs. Meticulous planning and execution to meet all exingencies indeed!!

Bird’s eye view of Hyderabad and the domes of the Qutub Shahi tombs

A short rest in the darbar hall and a difficult descent down followed. The beautiful views of the fort as one descended compensated for the difficult trek. Some views…

Panoramic views of Golconda Fort

Tired after the climb and descent, I was happy to meet my driver and board the cool comfort of the car .

This marks the end of the episode on the diamond fort but there’s more coming from Hyderabad. So do continue to comment and feedback till I reach you next…

Darjeeling ; the land of Dorje

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India

Continuing our trip to NorthEast India, our next destination was Darjeeling. Starting from Gangtok we were driven down to Darjeeling by our tour operator. And I need not say….the drive was through hilly terrain with some beautiful views of the Himalayas.

A little bit about Darjeeling…

This quaint hillstation at an altitude of 6700 ft in the state of West Bengal in India has a colonial past. Darjeeling was originally in Sikkim and was leased out by the British to develop it into a summer retreat and English style cottages were built . Tea plantations were developed and a lot of labourers were recruited chiefly from Nepal. Widespread deforestation lead to displacement of the indigenous people. After Indian independence when the British left India, these cottages were bought by wealthy Indians and so were the plantations. This explains the colonial look of the buildings in the hillstation , the tea estates and the cosmopolitan population.

The name “Darjeeling” is derived from the Lepcha and Tibetan word dorje-ling meaning land of the thunderbolt. The dorje is a weapon found in most local homes and held by their deities. It is also the weapon of the Hindu God Indra.

The Dorje

Our Trip

The drive to Darjeeling was beautiful with winding roads, tea plantations and views of the mighty Himalayas. The Teesta and Rangeet rivers played hide and seek with us enroute till we reached a point where we could see them merging.

Some pictures from the drive to Darjeeling…

The misty hills, winding roads and the Teesta river

The confluence of the Teesta (muddy) and the Rangeet (clear) rivers

Late afternoon, we were at Darjeeling, checked into our hotel and rested for a while. Our hotel was walking distance from Chowrasta, the main shopping area in Darjeeling. So we walked up there and spent an evening soaking in the Darjeeling vibes.

Chowrasta

Chowrasta is the public square of Darjeeling lined with coffee shops and restaurants . It is a kind of meeting point for the people with small benches along the side for tourists to soak in the ambience. On a clear day, some of the Himalayan peaks can be seen from here including Mt. Kanchenjunga.

The Hawa Ghar ; a permanent stage where cultural programs are held and a statue of a Nepali poet adorn the square.

Chowrasta with the Hawa Ghar on the right

The fountain , statue and crowds at Chowrasta

View of Darjeeling town with clouds descending on it…

After soaking in the Darjeeling ambience, we returned for the night to our hotel.

Next morning, we were picked up for a local sightseeing trip of Darjeeling and our first destination was the Ghoom Monastery.

Ghoom Monastery

A monastery of the yellow hat sect of Buddhists, it houses a 15 ft statue of Maitreya Buddha. This statue is painted in gold colour and is embedded with precious stones. The monastery houses various rare Buddhist manuscripts and is a revered place of worship for the Buddhists.

The New Ghoom monastery is a huge building and houses several monks. The old Ghoom monastery lies below it and looks more traditional.

New Ghoom Monastery

Old Ghoom Monastery

Buddha Statue

Darjeeling is home to an important institute, The Himalayan Mountaineering institute.

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute

Founded in 1954 to commemorate the first summit of Mt Everest by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary,this is one of the premier mountaineering institutes in the world.

This institute trains aspirants in mountaineering and allied adventure activities. Tenzing Norgay served as the first director of this institute. There is a museum here that houses various treasured mountaineering displays.

Entrance to HMI

One of the inspiring exhibits and memorabilia at the museum

There is a statue of Tenzing Norgay and a rock named after him inside the institute. Interested visitors can attempt climbing this rock.

The statue of Tenzing Norgay and the rock for aspirant climbers.

Adjoining the HMI is the Darjeeling Zoo also called Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park. Many rare Himalayan species can be seen in this zoo. It is India’s highest altitude zoo.

Some pictures…

The Entrance

A Himalayan Panda…click on the video

A bear

Tiger Hill

This mountain in Darjeeling at a height of 8500 ft offers views of Mt Everest and Mt Kanchenjunga. A visit to Tiger Hill is recommended at dawn. We were picked up before sunrise and we drove up to Tiger Hill.

Spotting a leopard!!!

I can never forget this drive as I spotted a leopard just off the road scampering into the bushes as the lights of our jeep hit it. You will understand that just like the leopard, I was also taken by surprise and was not ready with my camera!!!

It was only subsequently that I realised that the Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary lies close to Tiger Hill and it is home to the Indian leopard.

At Tiger Hill , there is a viewing platform from where the views of sunrise over the Himalayas is awesome on a clear day. As the sun rises, the first rays falling on the snow capped mountains gives it a pretty orange hue which I was hoping for. Mt Kanchenjunga appears higher than Mt Everest as it is closer to Darjeeling. But, we were not so fortunate as we did see a sunrise but the clouds obstructed the Kanchenjunga views.

However, we enjoyed the thrill of waiting among the crowd for the Sun God to appear!

Some pictures…

What was expected….(a file photo for reference)

What we saw...if you look carefully, the mountain peaks are seen in faint golden colour…

Sunrise over the Himalayas….

The Peace Pagoda

Another shrine in Darjeeling is the Peace Pagoda which is aimed at uniting people of all races and fostering world peace. One can understand its relevance in today’s world!!

Built by a Japanese Buddhist monk, it houses four avatars of Buddha. The ambience there is calm and peaceful and suited for meditation.

Peace Pagoda

Last but not the least, we did visit some tea gardens nearby and also a tea factory. And of course savoured a lot of the famous Darjeeling chai at Keventer’s the colonial era restaurant that Darjeeling boasts of!!!

A tea estate

At the tea factory and enjoying tea at Keventers

That just about sums up our trip to Darjeeling. With lot more to cover in NorthEast India and hoping to come back for that, we bid goodbye to Darjeeling.

See you next week. Till then do subscribe, comment and give your feedback….

Sikkim; beauty nestled in the Himalayas

by Leela Gopinath, posted in India

This was essentially our first trip to NorthEast India. A trip to Kalimpong, Gangtok and Darjeeling. Our first halt was Kalimpong, a tiny hillstation in West Bengal. After taking a flight from Chennai, we landed at Bagdogra airport one noon. We were picked up by our tour operator and driven down to Kalimpong.

Just after leaving Bagdogra airport, we passed through the town of Siliguri and then on , we were on to some beautiful scenery. The drive was through tea gardens for the major part. The peculiar thing here is the presence of tea gardens on flat land. Down south, all our tea gardens are on hill slopes; not so here.

Tea Gardens

Gradually we were climbing up and we could feel the chillness set in as the altitude increased. Finally, we reached our hotel in Kalimpong by evening and rested for the evening.

Kalimpong

Kalimpong is a tiny hillstation at the foot of the Himalayas in West Bengal with salubrious climate. It is famous for it’s Buddhist monasteries , Tibetan handicrafts and local flowers. It offers great views of the Himalayas and the Teesta Rangit valley of Sikkim.

We woke up to a beautiful sunrise over the Himalayas .

Sunrise over the Himalayas

After breakfast we were picked up on a sightseeing trip of Kalimpong.

Our first halt was at Durpin hill which has the famous Tibetan monastery Zang dok Palri monastery. It is one of the largest and oldest monasteries in Kalimpong and houses beautiful paintings and scriptures.It has nine stupas or chortens in the courtyard.

The Monastery and the nine stupas

From there we visited one of the beautiful flower nurseries of Kalimpong. The cactus varieties and their unique flowers were truly enchanting. Some pictures…

Beautiful Cactus flowers

Sikkim

After lunch, we drove down from Kalimpong to Gangtok (capital of Sikkim), a distance of little more than 70 kms. Though the distance is less, the road follows a hilly terrain and it was evening by the time we reached Gangtok.

Sikkim is one of the smallest states in India but houses 84 glaciers making it the state with maximum glaciers.

The views enroute were really beautiful , particularly the Teesta river.

The hilly terrain

The Teesta River

Gangtok

This city in the eastern Himalayas ; capital of Sikkim is a prominent Buddhist pilgrim centre. Sikkim was a monarchy when India became independent but subsequently merged with India in 1975. Gangtok was on the trade route with Tibet and flourished through the Nathula and Jelepla passes. However, these passes were sealed after the SinoIndian hostilities leading to the decline of it’s importance. Subsequently the Nathula pass was opened for limited trade in 2006.

The city lies on the lower Himalayan ranges at a height of 1650 mts on a hill side and as such is prone to landslides. Roads are on steep inclines and houses built along the sides making it inevitable to have steep steps for reaching the buildings. It also lies on an earthquake prone zone surrounded by dense forest cover which acts as an impediment to growth of the city.

Gangtok, the city on a hillside

The upper parts of the city have alpine vegetation which gradually changes to temperate as one comes down in altitude. Bamboo is found in plenty. Sikkim is famous for it’s orchid varieties too.

The most happening place in Gangtok is the MG road and Lal Bazar. It is a pedestrian promenade with no vehicular traffic and dotted with shops on either side.

Lal Bazar , the main shopping promenade

We visited Gangtok in April and that was the time of the flower show there. Orchids dominated the show. Some pictures..

A variety of Orchids

Rumtek Monastery

This is the largest Monastery in Sikkim and is the seat of the Karmapa who fled from Tibet to Sikkim. Also called Dharma Chakra Centre, it has typical Tibetan architecture and houses many monks who perform various ritual practices.

The interiors are colourful and have several relics. Some pictures..

Rumtek Monastery

The colourful interiors of the monastery

Tashi Viewpoint

Our next halt was at Tashi View Point. This charming place is a perfect place to witness the brilliant surroundings like mountains, valleys and Gangtok itself.

Great views of Mt. Kanchenjunga can be enjoyed from here. It is ideal to come here for sunrise as the different hues of colour reflect on the peak. Some pictures…

Mt. Kanchenjunga from Tashi

Tashi View point

The next day was the highlight of our tour to Sikkim. The visit to the Tsomgo Lake

Tsomgo Lake

40 Kms from Gangtok on the Gangtok – Nathula highway is this beautiful glacial lake which is also called Changu Lake. The road to Nathula pass literally surrounds some parts of the lake. Since the border with China is just 5 kms away, this area is under army surveillance and we find lot of army personnel here. Due to this, visitors to Tsomgo Lake require to take prior permission by submitting identity proof. This is checked at entry and marked again while leaving.

Located at an elevation of 3700 mts, the lake remains completely frozen in winter. The lake is surrounded by snow clad mountains which melts in summer to form the source of the lake. By May when the winter ends and the ice melts, there are beautiful Rhododendron flowers along the edge of the lake. We were a little too early for that!!

Rhododendrons

The Tsomgo lake is host to a number of migratory birds prominent among which are the Brahminy ducks. The migratory birds use the lake as a stopover on their way to the Indian plains from as far as Siberia during the winter months.

Tsomgo is believed to be sacred by Buddhists and Hindus and is shrouded in myths, beliefs and faith. Local legend has it that in ancient times, the Buddhist saints used to predict the future by observing the changing colour of the lake; a dark, gloomy tint told of difficult times and unrest in the region.

The Jhakris or faith healers of Sikkim attribute healing qualities to the water of this lake. Yak rides are an added attraction here.

The trip to Tsongmo was a rather jerky one, I must admit. Due to the extremely hilly terrain, the roads are winding up hill slopes and it is uneven and many places there were blocks due to rocks and boulders falling on the road. The road climbs 7500 ft within a span of 35 kms making it one of the steepest inclined roads.The drivers here are experts, and they literally take you on the edge of a ledge with a ravine below. All in all, it was a risky ride. That is probably the reason, that the vehicles move in a convoy .

Our convoy to Tsomgo

The winding roads…

There were waterfalls along the way…

A waterfall on the way

But at the end of it, the views were awesome!!!

A signboard explaining the sanctity of the lake

Tsomgo lake and the reflection of the Himalayas…

On the banks of the lake with some army personnel in the backdrop

The Yak is ready for a ride….

File photo of the same lake fully frozen in winter

There is a small cafetaria close to the lake where we had a quick bite and started our journey to Nathula Pass. There was lot of uncertainity about this part of the trip as bad weather was predicted but we managed it.

Nathula Pass

This pass at 14,150 ft connects Gangtok to Tibet and is located in the Himalayan ranges.It was once a trade route but was sealed in 1962 after the India-China war. Squirmishes along the area between the two sides was common. It was reopened in 2006 for trade and as it offered an alternative route for the Kailash Mansarovar Yatra. However, due to bad weather, trade is restricted to only few months in a year. Needless to say, variations in Indo China relations affects tourist accessibility here.

Some pictures..

Map showing location of Nathula and the road leading there

Nathula Pass

Memorial at Nathula

We just managed to look around and the weather dramatically worsened. We were all asked to leave immediately and we did so. Back in the safety of our vehicles, we waited in the long queue of leaving vehicles. Enroute we encountered some delay due to land slips which were being cleared by the BRO (Border Roads Organisation).

With beautiful memories of an alpine lake, we retired for the night with dreams of an exciting ride to Darjeeling the next day.

See you at Darjeeling next week. Till then, do subscribe, comment and give your feedback.

Kodagu; Beyond Koffee

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Karnataka

Tasting Coorg coffee, let us continue our journey through Kodagu visiting some of it’s highlights. The Nagarhole Tiger reserve is perhaps it’s main highlight and let us start from there. Come along….

Nagarhole National Park

The Nagarhole National Park and Tiger Reserve is part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve and lies along the Brahmagiri hills in Coorg. Sandalwood and teak trees abound in this park which is home to the Bengal Tiger, gaur, Chital, Sambar and elephants and a variety of birds. The Nagarhole River winds through jungle landscapes of this park giving it the name Nagarhole meaning serpent river and joins the Kabini River near Bandipur. This park is contiguous with Wayanad and Bandipur sanctuaries.

A jungle safari through this park can give one an opportunity to see it’s inhabitants. Some pictures….

A misty morning at Nagarhole

On a brighter day…

Elephant walk….

Langur time….

Enroute Nagarhole is a famous waterfall called Iruppu falls.

Iruppu Falls

Located on the highway to Nagarhole, this waterfall is also called Lakshman Tirtha falls. A trek from the falls takes one through the forest to Brahmagiri peak. The Lakshman Tirtha river starts from here and there is a famous Shiva temple on it’s banks.

Iruppu Falls

Moving away from Nagarhole , let us visit some important sights near Madikeri

Abbey Falls

One of the most picturesque sights in Coorg is the Abbey falls where the Kaveri river cascades on a rockface in between coffee plantations. It is located about 8 kms from Madikeri and one has to climb down a flight of stairs to reach this waterfall.

Abbey Falls

The steps leading to the falls

Nisargadhama

Located about 30 kms from Madikeri and close to Kushalnagar is this bamboo forest and deer park on the banks of the Kaveri. Boating facilities are available here. A hanging bridge over the river is another attraction. Some images..

Kaveri at Nisargadhama

Hanging Bridge

The bamboo forest and deer park

Harangi Dam

A dam built on the Harangi river, a tributary of the Kaveri also lies close to Kushalnagar town. The dam and the gardens offer a nice picnic spot . A small hydro electric project and an elephant camp also functions here.

The dam and reservoir

The elephant camp

The Namdroling Monastery

Kushalnagar is a Buddhist hub and there are many Buddhist institutions in the area. The more popular one is called the Golden Temple or Namdroling Monastery.

The Namdroling Monastery

More pictures from inside the monastery…

Inside Namdroling monastery

Dubare Elephant camp

Visitor interaction with elephants is facilitated in this camp located on the banks of the Kaveri river. Bathing and feeding them with sugarcane and jaggery are popular activities offered here. Elephant rides into the forest and information on elephant biology by trained naturalists are added attractions here.

Feeding area at Dubare

Bathing elephants in the Kaveri at Dubare

Talakaveri

Talakaveri is considered the origin of the river Kaveri and hence a sacred place for the Hindus. There is a tank here which is fed by a spring that is considered to be the source of the river. A temple dedicated to Kaveramma who is worshipped by the Kodavas is located here.

Forests surround Talakaveri

The tank and temple at Talakaveri

Bhagamandala

This is a place of confluence of three rivers and is a sacred place. The Kaveri joins two smaller rivers here; the Kannike and Sujyothi. A Shiva temple next to the confluence also attracts pilgrims. Many devout perform rituals for their departed ancestors here before proceeding to worship at Talakaveri.

The confluence of the three rivers at Bhagamandala

Shiva temple at Bhagamandala

It must be obvious by now that there is no dearth of interesting sights near Kodagu. I have tried to cover most of them. Hope you have enjoyed your visit to Kodagu.

Next week we move away from Karnataka to Sikkim . Till then, do comment and give your feedback.

Kodagu, the coffee cup of India

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Karnataka

Who would not fancy a hot cup of freshly brewed coffee?

Whether you like it black , with milk or with cream ; a cup of coffee makes every morning special.

Well, today let us visit Kodagu/Coorg , nicknamed the coffee cup of India.

Kodagu lies on the eastern slopes of the Western ghats and enjoys salubrious climate almost all round the year. Kodagu is actually the name of the district and when we talk loosely about going to Coorg what we mean is go to Madikeri and the surrounding areas.

A brief on Coorg and the local inhabitants before we indulge in more coffee talk….

The original inhabitants of Kodagu were the Kodavas who were a warrior community. The British annexed Coorg and deposed the local Kodava rulers. They did help improve the infrastructure, introduced scientific initiatives in coffee farming and contibuted to the overall development but there was a lot of exploitation of the resources and man power from here. It subsequently became part of Mysore state ( now Karnataka).

The Kodavas, the original inhabitants have largely retained their cultural identity and this can be seen in their attire and customs. The sari, the traditional dress of Indian women is worn in a different style here. The men wear a knee lenth black wrap around coat called Kupya, a silk sash around the waist and typical head gear. A dagger tucked into the sash completes the attire.

The traditional attire of the Kodavas

Since most Coorgi households are coffee planters, the house is inside or adjacent to a coffee estate and the harvesting and processing of coffee beans is an integral part of their lives.

A kodava house in a coffee estate

Kodavas are fond of non vegetarian food and meat ; particularly pork (pandi curry) and alcohol are served at weddings and even religious ceremonies and pujas. Traditional Coorgi food is Kadambottu or steamed rice balls served with spicy meat gravies.

Traditional Coorgi food

Coffee Talk…

Coffee was first introduced in India in the 17 th century by a saint Baba Budan who smuggled a few coffee beans during his Mecca trip and planted them at Chikmagalur in Karnataka. Both Chikmagalur and Kodagu produce most of Indian coffee today. Let us talk about Kodagu coffee…

Largely an agricultural district, Kodagu is the largest producer of coffee and pepper in India today . Cardamom, rubber, and oranges are the other important produce.

As one drives in Coorg, coffee plantations on either side of the road welcome you. Misty mornings in a breathtaking landscape of lush green hills ; Kodagu has climatic conditions ideal for coffee cultivation and that explains the vast coffee estates here. Mainly two varieties of coffee are cultivated here, Robusta and Arabica.

The coffee estates

Coffee shrubs and pepper vines

Coffee and Pepper ready to harvest

Spice shops line the road at every few metres…

Most of the homestays and hotels in Kodagu arrange for a plantation visit. That can be a different experience for the urban bred.

A coffee estate walk

Coffee berries are handpicked as they have to be at the right stage; neither too ripe nor raw. These berries are then dried out in the sun for a couple of weeks. Then the seeds of the berries are separated by removing the skin and dried pulp.

Drying of Coffee berries and extracted beans

The seeds are then stored after grading. Before use, the seeds are roasted and powdered to get you the filter coffee powder available in the market.

Many of these stages are automated by the large coffee cultivators while the smaller farmers use traditional methods. Fermenting the coffee bean and roasting are the two stages which can alter the aroma and flavour of your next cup. So these are carefully monitored.

Cuppers….

Coffee tasters also called cuppers play a role in determining the taste and flavour of your next cup. The cupper assesses the quality of beans, then “noses” the brew for the aroma. The actual step of tasting begins with the cupper slurping a spoonful of coffee spraying it all over his tastebuds before spitting it out. Difficult to accept , but expert cuppers taste hundreds of coffee varieties a day and still tell the subtle differences!! After all this, I really wonder if the cupper can enjoy his actual cuppa like you and me??

A cupper’s work table

To brew the coffee we buy from the market, in traditional south Indian style, we use a coffee filter. The coffee powder is placed in the filter and hot water is passed through it to extract the flavour. The decoction is then had diluted as black coffee or added to boiled milk to get a cup of freshly brewed filter coffee . Automatic coffee brewing machines are now available of course!

Instant coffee powders are made industrially using various steps.

A traditional coffee filter used at home and an automated filter

And that explains the journey of the coffee bean from birth till it comes to you in a cup as coffee…

Well, I hope you enjoyed the journey of the coffee bean just as you do your morning cuppa!!!

Delving more deep into Kodagu, next week we visit some of the interesting sights around Madikeri. Till then, enjoy your coffee… but don’t forget to give your comments and feedback…

Sakrebyle , Elephant rendezvous

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Karnataka

Elephants; the gentle giants , are dear to all of us ; more so to children. So when we saw our granddaughter’s excitement on seeing elephants on the screen, we decided to give her a hands on encounter with these lovable beings. That’s what led us to Sakrabyle, the elephant camp near Shimoga in Karnataka.

A 310 km drive from Bangalore and we were at Shimoga.

The drive to Shimoga

The best time to visit the camp is early morning before the crowds and the heat and so we halted overnight at Shimoga.

A preview of the elephant camp and facilities available before I get into our experiences…

Sakrebyle Elephant Camp

Maintained by the Karnataka Forest department, this camp is a forest camp for captive elephants brought here for training and rehabilitation from many places. Elephants that may have had illnesses , nutritional issues, behavioural issues like rogue elephants or those that were orphaned or abandoned are housed here in the forest camp. A dedicated team of specially trained mahouts train and rehabilitate these gentle giants.

The Forest Camp

They live inside the forest camp opposite the area where tourists interact with them. This forest area also has accomodation for tourists run by Jungle lodges and resorts. The accomodation in the Jungle lodges is very good and safari facilities are there. (Unfortunately, we could not get accomodation at this jungle lodge which would have been ideal). If you book with Jungle lodges, they take care of everything and also they bring you to the interaction area in a buggy saving you the trouble of getting the tickets etc.

The Jungle Lodge and tourists being brought to the interaction area

Every morning, the elephants are brought from the forest to the interaction area.

The elephants coming out of the forest camp

The interacion area is a large open ground with multiple activities. This area lies on the banks of the Tunga river where the giants have their bath. The most popular activity here is an opportunity to bathe the elephants under the supervision of the mahout.

Our trip

Driving down from Shimoga early morning, we reached the camp well on time to join the front of the long queue for tickets.

The counter and the long queue

As we were waiting at the ticket counter, the elephants were being brought in for their daily rituals under supervision of mahouts.

The entrance for the elephants and one of the elephants walking in

A short walk lead us to an open area overlooking the Tunga river

The open interaction area

The beautiful Tunga river

The elephant family walks to the Tunga

Ready for a bath in the Tunga river

The mahout starts the bathing process…

And we joined in….

After helping with the bathing ritual, we stood around and watched as more elephants came and went through their daily routines

Visitors watch the elephants ….

After the bath, the elephants are fed at an enclosure and visitors can also participate in the feeding of the elephants. Since we were to leave to our next destination, we did not wait for that. Elephant rides are also available from there.

Returning to our hotel in Shimoga we proceeded to Kollur for our annual pilgrimage there and then on to a fun destination near Koteshwar. The little one was all excited about her encounter with the giants and her stories continued for a few days.

Let me stop here for now .

Next week we are at coffee land. Till then, do keep your comments and feedback coming….

Jog Falls

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Karnataka

The Sharavati river in Karnataka plunges down a vertical cliff to form the famous Jog Falls or Gersoppa Falls . A beautiful waterfall specially in the monsoons, this SHOULD be in your bucket list!!

Come on…let me take you there virtually….

The Jog Falls ( just after the monsoons)

Legend of Sharavati

The Sharavati River originates at a place called Ambutheertha in Karnataka. Legend has it that Lord Ram shot at the ground with his arrow (Ambu) to quench his wife Sita’s thirst. Out poured the water (Theertha) from the earth. Since this event marked the beginning of the river , it got it’s name Sharavati where “Shara “means arrow.

The Sharavati River near Honavar where it joins the Arabian Sea

At Jog, the water drops 253 mt ; making it the third highest waterfall in India after the Nonkhalikai (Meghalaya) and Dudhsagar falls.

The fall comes down a deep chasm in four parts called Raja, Rani, Roarer and Rocket falls. This waterfall changes itself seasonally depending on the rainfall. Its true might is displayed during or just after the monsoons. The presence of the Linganamakki dam also affects the volume of water in the falls.

The falls during the dry season with much reduced waterflow

There is a viewpoint located right across the falls from where we can actually watch the falls and there is a series of steps to go down to the bottom of the falls.

The viewpoint

Enjoy the video of the falls in monsoon

The other interesting activities that can be combined with Jog falls:

Sharavati Wildlife sanctuary ,Dabbe Falls and Linganamakki Dam visits.

Sharavati Wildlife sanctuary

The Sharavati river basin is rich in biodiversity and also has the Sharavati Wildlife sanctuary.

The Sharavati Wildlife sanctuary in the Western ghats is covered with evergreen forests and grassy hilltops. It harbours rich wildlife like bison, deer, boar, jackals,leopards and the malabar giant squirrel. A visit to this wildlife sanctuary can be combined with a Jog falls visit.

Deer at Sharavati Sanctuary

Bison

Dabbe Falls :

It is about 35 kms from Sagara town. Guides are available at Muppane nature camp which is 10 kms away.

Dabbe Falls

Linganamakki Dam:

10kms from Jog falls is the Linganamakki dam. One can view the dam from a distance.

Linganamakki Dam

Travelling to Jog Falls:

The nearest airport is at Mangalore 219 kms away.

The nearest Railway station is Talaguppa 20 kms away.

Driving from Bangalore, it is 411 kms away.

Sagara and Shimoga are the nearest towns with plenty of hotels. But the best places to stay are The Mayura Gersoppa hotel run by Karnataka Tourism (bang opposite the falls with views from the rooms ) and Sharavati Adventure camp run by Jungle Lodges and resorts.

Sharavati Adventure camp

This is by far the best accomodation near Jog falls. As the name suggests, it has various adventure activities like hiking, trekking, bird watching. Besides, the views from here are beautiful with the backwaters of the Talakalale dam .Water sports activities are also available.

The Sharavati Adventure Camp

Well, that brings us to the end of this episode.

Next week, we meet up with some gentle giants; the elephants. Till then, let me say goodbye but not before reminding you to subscribe, comment or give your feedbacks.

The Hanging Pillar of Lepakshi

by Leela Gopinath, posted in Great Temples of India

Lepakshi has been in the news recently , and so ; why not resume the India series with Lepakshi ? With the Ayodhya temple inauguration and the Prime Minister’s visit , Lepakshi has indeed come into focus . Till then , many of you may not have heard of this temple in the sleepy town of Lepakshi in the state of Telengana in India . A 16th century temple enriched with art and architecture of the Vijayanagar Empire has this as yet unexplained phenomenon of the hanging pillar.

The temple itself is dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra (fiery avatar of Lord Shiva) and has shrines dedicated to various Hindu Gods like Vishnu, Devi, Ganesha and Hanuman. Apart from religious attributes, the Lepakshi temple complex is considered an excellent art monument. This is because, most of the walls and ceilings at the temple are covered not only with sculptures, but murals depicting various scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata.

Since the most intriguing and popular feature is it’s hanging pillar, let us first talk about that…

The hanging pillar

The hanging pillar is one of the pillars of the inner hall of the temple which does not rest on the floor. A clear gap is seen between the floor and the pillar and often people pass a cloth below the pillar to try it out.

The actual reason for this is still unclear and many theories have been put forward. They vary from anti gravity techniques known to the ancestors ,to magnetic causes, to the presence of some rod inside holding it up to the ceiling , to divine intervention ,to the balance of the artwork on the pillar.

The Hanging pillar

Trying to pass a cloth below the pillar

An English engineer is supposed to have tried moving this pillar when the other pillars started shaking and he had to abandon his efforts.

Shifting focus to the main temple….

Legend of Lepakshi Temple

Most Hindu temples are associated with legends and Lepakshi has been associated with the epic of Ramayana. When Ravana, the demon king abducted Sita and was on his way to Lanka with her, Jatayu, the eagle tried to stop him. Ravana attacked Jatayu and the injured Jatayu fell down . When Rama came along and saw the wounded Jatayu, he uttered the words”Le Pakshi” which translates to “rise up bird” and helped him achieve salvation . The word Lepakshi stuck to the place and today we have a huge statue of Jatayu on a rock here.

The temple dates back to 1583 during the reign of the Vijayanagar Empire. Two brothers, Viranna and Virupanna are believed to have built this temple in typical Vijayanagar architectural style. A large number of frescos adorn the ceilings of this temple; some of it faded and peeled off. This temple is designated a monument of national importance by the ASI (Archaeological survey of India) and is on the tentative UNESCO World Heriage Sites list.

Visiting Lepakshi

A 120 km drive from Bangalore on NH 44 and a left turn and then15 km on highway 544E takes one to this temple.

As one reaches the junction to turn off the highway there is a decorative arch with jatayu on the top and a small Nandi in front.

The Jatayu arch at the entrance to Lepakshi town

At Lepakshi, the first structure that one encounters, is a giant Nandi Statue. This is actually called the Basavanna temple.

Nandi (Bull)

The Nandi (Bull) is a monolithic granite bull in sitting posture, 10 mts in length and 6 mts in height . Considered the largest Nandi in India, it is depicted with short horns and decorative bells and ornaments around the neck. A lily pond adds to the beauty of this small temple .

Shiva temples usually have a Nandi statue looking at the sanctum and this Nandi looks at the giant Nagalinga statue located inside the main temple. This Nandi however has its head aloft at a slight angle which makes it unlike most Nandis where a submissive posture is the rule.

The Giant Nandi

The front view and the lily pond in the complex

A short walk down the road takes one to the main Lepakshi Temple.

The entire temple is built on top of a tortoise (kurma) shaped hill(saila) or Kurmasaila and has towering walls around. A giant banyan tree adorns the entrance and a board explaining the origin of the temple gives one a little perspective of the temple.

The board explaining the history and the outer walls

The main temple is laid out in three parts : the Natya Mantapa ,the Artha Mantapa and the sanctum or Anthrala.

The Natya Mantapa

Located inside the outer fortress wall, this hall has multiple pillars with sculptures of gods, goddesses, horses, lions, musicians and dancers.

The ornate Natya Mantapa

Pillars with beautiful sculptures

Two giant monolithic sculptures greet us inside the temple.

One is a monolithic Ganesha with a protective canopy with pillars and the other is the Nagashivalinga.

The Giant Ganesha

The shivalinga is made of a huge rock while the seven headed serpent or Naga is monolithic and appears to be protecting the linga.

Nagashivalinga (7 hooded serpent sheltering the Shivalinga)

Sita’s footprint

As one circumambulates along the outer walls, one comes across a giant footprint believed to be that of Sita.

Another image that strikes us are two red marks on the wall. Legend has it that Virupanna who built the temple used funds from the treasury without the approval of the king. He was ashamed to face the king and so he gorged out his own eyes and threw it which hit the wall. This spot has two red marks attributed to this incident.

Sita’s footprint and Virupanna’s eyes.

This then brings us to the unfinished Kalyana Mantapa.

After Virupanna punished himself , no further construction was undertaken ; leaving an incomplete Kalyana Mantap. However, the sculptures on the pillars of the Kalyana Mantap are beautiful and exude the art of the Vijayanagar era.

The unfinished Kalyana Mantap

The exquisite art work on the pillars of Kalyana Mantap

The Artha Mantapa

The innermost segment of the temple leading to the main sanctum is the Artha Mantap . The hall itself has multiple pillars decorated with sculptures and the ceiling has murals of various sizes but many of which have faded or have been damaged. The columns are located on an elevated plinth and have eaves overhanging in a curved fashion.

One of the frescos on the ceiling of the Artha Mantapa is supposed to be the largest one in Asia. The paintings depict the costumes of that period but due to age related fading, many of the features are not very clear.

Some pictures…

Sculptures on the pillars of the Artha Mantapa

The frescoes

The damaged ceiling and frescoes

The Garbha griha

The Artha Mantapa leads to the sanctum sanctorum or garbha griha where the shrine of Veerabhadra swamy is located. A small cave chamber where saint Agasthya lived when he installed the linga is also seen. The ceiling at the sanctum has the paintings of Virupanna and Virupaksha who constructed the temple.

A shrine dedicated to Durga, the goddess is located just outside the main shrine and has a huge mirror in front so that, one can see the reflection from far.

The side view of the main entrance and the cave chamber

The Giant Jatayu

As explained in the legend, Jatayu is intricately connected with Lepakshi . No wonder then that a huge Jatayu image is constructed on a rocky hillock close to the temple. It is called the Jatayu theme park. The giant Jatayu seems to be overlooking the whole town.

To reach the Jatayu, one has to climb up some steps on a rocky hillock.

Some pictures…

Jatayu park and the view of Lepakshi Temple from there

The giant eagle Jatayu

It was noon by the time we finished walking around the temple and the Jatayu park and we returned to the comfort of our hotel room .

Well, I hope I have kindled your desire to visit this temple and admire its art and architecture.

See you next week from an amazing waterfall of south India…till then,

do give me your feedback and comments….